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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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confused and frustated

i have a 99 5.4.at start-up i have a diesel sound knock coming from the passenger side of the motor.its gets quieter as it warms up.under load at low rpms when its warm i hear a tapping almost like a exhaust leak.i replaced all broken manifold studs.that got rid of the exhaust leak but i still have the tick.if i let off the gas it stops and if i step on it and run the rpms up i cant hear it either.i cannot duplicate the sound in the driveway while revving it .i layed underneath it and can onl hear a faint noise coming from the bottom end.anyone have any advise on what this could be or a way to trouble shoot this?

also am i correct with thinking if it was a rod bearing it would knock all time or when i rev it also.

i am running motorcraft 5/20 and a motorcraft filter.i changed the oil and saw no shavings.i also have put about 6,000 miles on it doing this.
thanks for any help or advise.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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Could be piston slap?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 05:02 PM
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thats what i was hoping for it to be.i know at 156,000 miles its not gonna be perfectly quiet.it has good oil pressure also(at least the guage is at the three quarter mark)
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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Had a similar sound on my 97 5.4L at around 160,000 miles. Couldn't figure it out until at 166,000 miles the wrist pin let go and the piston blew the plug out of the engine. Still had good oil pressure but the loud knocking signaled the end. Hope yours isn't the same thing.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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have you checked to make sure your spark plugs are all tight ???

might be worth it to go throu em all.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 07:33 AM
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yeah i checked the plugs after i bought the truck.after reading up on the plug issues i figured i would check them.i hope its not the wrist pin.especially considering i will be towing my camper in a few weeks.
thanks for the input
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sundance8
Had a similar sound on my 97 5.4L at around 160,000 miles. Couldn't figure it out until at 166,000 miles the wrist pin let go and the piston blew the plug out of the engine. Still had good oil pressure but the loud knocking signaled the end. Hope yours isn't the same thing.
You're sure it was the wrist pin that let loose? I'm curious how this was diagnosed. Seems pretty rare to me. A more common scenario would be a head gasket failure, causing coolant in the combustion chamber, causing hydro-lock, which causes a broken wrist pin and launched the spark plug.

A wrist pin issue should not affect oil pressure like your main bearings would.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by redford
You're sure it was the wrist pin that let loose? I'm curious how this was diagnosed. Seems pretty rare to me. A more common scenario would be a head gasket failure, causing coolant in the combustion chamber, causing hydro-lock, which causes a broken wrist pin and launched the spark plug.

A wrist pin issue should not affect oil pressure like your main bearings would.
There was no coolant anywhere in the engine compartment or on the plug which was laying on the head still attached to the wire. Still had oil pressure as I drove it up on my trailer to haul it home. Didn't tear into it just swapped the engine for one that had 60,000 miles.
So diagnosis was not complete but circumstantial. I believe the ticking noise which was somewhat sporatic was in fact the pin ovaling out the bearing until it finally let go. Complete rebuild would have have cost me more than the swap.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by sundance8
There was no coolant anywhere in the engine compartment or on the plug which was laying on the head still attached to the wire. Still had oil pressure as I drove it up on my trailer to haul it home. Didn't tear into it just swapped the engine for one that had 60,000 miles.
So diagnosis was not complete but circumstantial. I believe the ticking noise which was somewhat sporatic was in fact the pin ovaling out the bearing until it finally let go. Complete rebuild would have have cost me more than the swap.
OK. Often it is easier and cheaper just to buy a rebuilt crate engine and be done with it, but if you had access to a decent salvage engine that's almost as good.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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i will just have to listen for it to get worse i guess.it was warmer yesterday so it qiueted out quicker.maybe its just piston slap.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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What kind of oil are you using?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 09:59 PM
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I thought my 99 takes 5-30..I also have noises but they go away..
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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i am using motorcraft 5/20 oil and filter.the noise that bugs me alittle is when i am on the throttle low in rpms.its a tapping its pretty quiet though.but like i said i cant duplicate it in the driveway revving it thats the confusing part. there are no metal shavings in oil either.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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My 99 says 5-30 on the oil cap i think... You shouldn't use 5-20 IMO Newer trucks use
5-20


Dick
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:42 AM
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put in 5w or 10w 30 and see what it does. Too thin of oil will cause a rattle/tap sound, as well as too thick of oil(so please don't try and run straight 30).
 
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