need help 302 gurus please...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 147
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From: Mulberry, Fl
need help 302 gurus please...
I'm heading out in 4 days from Detroit to the Florida keys...
I have a 95 f150 with 302 and automatic.
I have replaced the following
plugs, wires, coil, tps, mass airflow, cap + rotor, IAC, o2
the TPS and IAC came from o'reily's the rest is from autozone.
the problem is this. 500 to 1000 RPMs it runs ROUGH. at speed its fine. Albeit a bit sluggish.
at a stoplight it gets very rough, and 40% of the time it stalls.
the truck is running very rich (fuel) and getting bad mpg.
it has the original fuel filter. and I plan to replace it tomorrow.
does anyone have any ideas what would make it run so rich and want to stall? the voltages on the TPS are not 100% for what Ford calls for. but close to spec. Do you think I should get rid of o'reily crap and try AZ or NAPA for a TPS?
I have set the timing yesterday.
I replaced the mass air flow yesterday, but... when I unplug it... idle does improve. so it acts like mass airflow was not reman correctly.
any help would be GREATLY appreciated before my rode trip. lol
I have a 95 f150 with 302 and automatic.
I have replaced the following
plugs, wires, coil, tps, mass airflow, cap + rotor, IAC, o2
the TPS and IAC came from o'reily's the rest is from autozone.
the problem is this. 500 to 1000 RPMs it runs ROUGH. at speed its fine. Albeit a bit sluggish.
at a stoplight it gets very rough, and 40% of the time it stalls.
the truck is running very rich (fuel) and getting bad mpg.
it has the original fuel filter. and I plan to replace it tomorrow.
does anyone have any ideas what would make it run so rich and want to stall? the voltages on the TPS are not 100% for what Ford calls for. but close to spec. Do you think I should get rid of o'reily crap and try AZ or NAPA for a TPS?
I have set the timing yesterday.
I replaced the mass air flow yesterday, but... when I unplug it... idle does improve. so it acts like mass airflow was not reman correctly.
any help would be GREATLY appreciated before my rode trip. lol
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 147
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From: Mulberry, Fl
#1 you can buy the body kit and roll pan anywhere, but it came that way. Show Trucks USA conversion.
#2 no fuel in vac line for fuel pressure reg.
#3 no current engine MIL after mass airflow swap.
I had o2 reading lean (rich fuel lean o2 level)
and TPS Low voltage not what expected or lower than expected.
those were the only 2 codes that showed up. but I have no engine light on currently.
It acts at idle like a bad or sticking IAC, poor throttle response like a bad TPS.
I have also run 1/2 can of seafoam in each gas tank. and used another can on a vac line on intake.
#2 no fuel in vac line for fuel pressure reg.
#3 no current engine MIL after mass airflow swap.
I had o2 reading lean (rich fuel lean o2 level)
and TPS Low voltage not what expected or lower than expected.
those were the only 2 codes that showed up. but I have no engine light on currently.
It acts at idle like a bad or sticking IAC, poor throttle response like a bad TPS.
I have also run 1/2 can of seafoam in each gas tank. and used another can on a vac line on intake.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Mulberry, Fl
forgot to mention...
my charge gauge is normally at the A - L of normal. and when it acts up, it bounces around. and I do get a bearing sound under the hood when giving it gas (replaced idler and tensioner when those died)
and I know the engine coolant temp sensor is bad as well. that gauge is flatline at the bottom. But, being OBD1 I don't think the ECT would play a role in the idle issue. but... I'm much more famil with carb or OBD2 systems. not that strong with drivability on OBD1 systems.
my charge gauge is normally at the A - L of normal. and when it acts up, it bounces around. and I do get a bearing sound under the hood when giving it gas (replaced idler and tensioner when those died)
and I know the engine coolant temp sensor is bad as well. that gauge is flatline at the bottom. But, being OBD1 I don't think the ECT would play a role in the idle issue. but... I'm much more famil with carb or OBD2 systems. not that strong with drivability on OBD1 systems.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 183
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forgot to mention...
my charge gauge is normally at the A - L of normal. and when it acts up, it bounces around. and I do get a bearing sound under the hood when giving it gas (replaced idler and tensioner when those died)
and I know the engine coolant temp sensor is bad as well. that gauge is flatline at the bottom. But, being OBD1 I don't think the ECT would play a role in the idle issue. but... I'm much more famil with carb or OBD2 systems. not that strong with drivability on OBD1 systems.
my charge gauge is normally at the A - L of normal. and when it acts up, it bounces around. and I do get a bearing sound under the hood when giving it gas (replaced idler and tensioner when those died)
and I know the engine coolant temp sensor is bad as well. that gauge is flatline at the bottom. But, being OBD1 I don't think the ECT would play a role in the idle issue. but... I'm much more famil with carb or OBD2 systems. not that strong with drivability on OBD1 systems.
the ECT has a lot to do with the fuel mixture, i.e. when the engine is cold the computer will tell it to run more rich.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 147
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From: Mulberry, Fl
swapped out o'reily crap. running better. changed ECT as well.
don't have a pressure tester for fuel.
i couldn't get filter loose, so I took it to a shop, they said lines have been replaced with braided steel and they did not have a tool that could get it loose. So, I'm going to CUT the line with a tubing cutter and replace both spring clip sides with rubber lines.
Just sounds like a have a bigger cam in it. no longer attempting to stall like before. bouncy idle... between 550 and 850.
don't have a pressure tester for fuel.
i couldn't get filter loose, so I took it to a shop, they said lines have been replaced with braided steel and they did not have a tool that could get it loose. So, I'm going to CUT the line with a tubing cutter and replace both spring clip sides with rubber lines.
Just sounds like a have a bigger cam in it. no longer attempting to stall like before. bouncy idle... between 550 and 850.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 54
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From: Lafayette, LA
Check for any vacuum leaks. Also make sure that your MAF is clean. The hotwire style MAF does not do well with contamination, or vibration for that matter. If you are running an aftermarket, oiled cloth (K&N style) filter, ensure that it is not oversaturated, which could in turn cause the MAF to become contaminated. Also, spark timing is computer controlled, so timing set at the distributor is not the same as with a regular points or hei style distributor. Set the distributor to the factory specs, check for any vacuum leaks, change the fuel filter, double check the MAF for contamination and stock compatability, and see where that takes you.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
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From: Mexico, Missouri
I had a similar problem, 'cept mines SD. If your charge gauge is going funky, you may want to pull the alternator just for grins and have a parts house check to ensure it's working correctly. It's a free service and if it's never been checked since you have owned it, then I would get it checked. It helps keep steady voltage with the battery acting as a huge capacitor. If it's failing it can affect how sensors read their input.
Was just a thought since I would have a MIL/CEL come on when it started acting up and different sensors showed to be failing.
BTW> As other Posters mentioned..Stick with Motocraft
Was just a thought since I would have a MIL/CEL come on when it started acting up and different sensors showed to be failing.
BTW> As other Posters mentioned..Stick with Motocraft
