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P0401 Code on a Ford V-10

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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:39 PM
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P0401 Code on a Ford V-10

I have a '98 Ford V-10 15 pass van, with 113k miles on it. I've had to replace a couple of coil packs on it, but other than that, I really haven't done much to it at all. When the 'service engine' light came on, I was expecting another coil pack, but it wasn't running rough like it did before. When I got it home, and put the scanner to it, I was surprised to see it had the P0401 EGR blockage code.

Is this common on these vehicles? Should I find a vacuum source, and run a can of Sea Foam in it?

This vehicle normally does not get used much, but these past few weeks, I've been driving it almost every day.

Any help would be appreciated.

John
 

Last edited by 98ClubWagon; Mar 12, 2011 at 08:35 AM. Reason: Put down wrong code number: should be P0401
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:39 AM
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P0401 Code-Correction!

Since it was late last night, when I posted this, I dyslexically put the numbers down wrong! I was informed that by someone on the OBD codes forum, where I also posted a thread.

So, since I can't change the title (I don't know how), the code should be: P0401.

Sorry,
John
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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My haynes Book Says:

P0401: EGR low flow-Check vacuum supply and valve operation .

Here are few things to check ( from haynes book ) ;

1-Make sure vacuum hoses are in good condition and hooked up correctly.
2-To perform a leakage test ,attach a vacuum pump to EGR valve . Apply a vacuum of 5 to 6 in-Hg to the valve .The EGR valve should hold the vacuum .
3-Remove the EGR valve and clean the inlet and outlet ports with a wire brush . Donot sandblast the valve or clean it with gasoline or solvents .These liquids will destroy the EGR valve diaphragm.

Good luck,
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolfboro
My haynes Book Says:

P0401: EGR low flow-Check vacuum supply and valve operation .

Here are few things to check ( from haynes book ) ;

1-Make sure vacuum hoses are in good condition and hooked up correctly.
2-To perform a leakage test ,attach a vacuum pump to EGR valve . Apply a vacuum of 5 to 6 in-Hg to the valve .The EGR valve should hold the vacuum .
3-Remove the EGR valve and clean the inlet and outlet ports with a wire brush . Donot sandblast the valve or clean it with gasoline or solvents .These liquids will destroy the EGR valve diaphragm.

Good luck,
Thanks! The problem I'm going to have, is that this is a full-size van, with hardly any room underneath the hood! So, I guess it's 'take off the dog house' time! I just hate doing that!

With all my crying out of the way, where exactly is the EGR? Do you know which side? I'm hoping once the dog house is off, I can get to it somewhat easily.

Thanks,

John
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:09 AM
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Your fault code is one of the most-discussed ones on this forum. Plug it into the SEARCH tool for hundreds of posts with many containing the diagnostic instructions.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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[quote=98ClubWagon;10087617] where exactly is the EGR? Do you know which side?
.............................
There should be a metal pipe coming out of exhaust manifold into the intake manifold ( most likely at driver's side) . EGR valve is on the intake manifold side of the EGR pipe. My guide book gives this procedure :
1-Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.
2-Remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve (if equipped).
3-Remove the bolts and position the differential pressure feedback EGR bracket out of the way
4-Disconnect the EGR tube fittings and position the EGR tube out of the way.
5-Remove the two bolts and the EGR valve.
.....................
Another piece of info From Haynes ) The EGR flow rate is determined by monitoring the pressure across a fixed metering orifice as exhaust gases pass thru it .The system is called DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback ). The DPFE pressure sensor monitors upstream and downstream exhaust backpressures. This backpressure coefficient is relayed to the PCM and the correct amount of EGR duty cycle is applied to the EGR vacuum regulator control (EVR ).
...................
Sounds like DPFE sensor and/or EVR vacuum regulator valve could be the culprit too .
Take your time and find out how you can test these .

Good luck .
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Thanks for the info! If the check engine light comes on again, and it's that code, I'll go deeper into it.

That description you gave from Haynes, is that for the van? Or Pick up? Just wondering if it's accessible from the front, or from the rear? The description says take off the air cleaner outlet tube, so if that is for the van, then I can assume that it can be accessed from the front?

Thanks,
John
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:37 AM
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What I would do is simple. Apply vacuum directly to the EGR while the engine is idling and see if it beings to stumble or even stall. If it does, the EGR is working.

I suspect it's really the DPFE sensor, which is usually the reason for this.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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98Clubwagon,
The removal procedure is from a manual that covers "2000 F-Super Duty 250-550/Excursion/F-53 Motorhome Chassis " .
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:06 AM
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Came on again

Just to update this thread, the check engine light came on again yesterday. It almost seems if I don't let it 'warm up' a bit, then I'll get the light to come on.

I do have an AutoXRay 6000 scan tool, that also does live data streaming. Does anyone know what I should be looking for, in the data streaming, to determine if it's actually the EGR, or the DPFE sensor? Is there a way to find out using the scan tool? I would rather try something like that, as opposed to taking the thing apart, and checking the EGR with vacuum, like you guys are saying. If this was a pickup, or car, then I'd jump right in. But, being a van, you guys know how much of a pain it is to work on these! I'm sure that the EGR is probably in the back, where I'd have to take off the 'dog house' in the van.

Thanks,
John
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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Removing the dog house and testing the EGR with a vacuum pump is probably the easiest

Of course, you COULD watch the EGR duty-cycle, versus the DPFE flow rate, and as the EGR duty cycle increases, the DPFE flow rate would increase as well. If there is no change as the EGR duty-cycle increases, that indicates the EGR is not opening, OR the DPFE is bad.

So, even with datalogging, you're still stuck with "what's causing the issue" and you'd STILL have to manually test the EGR to see if it's working

The EGR will come on as you slowly tip into the go-pedal. I used to watch the EGR on my '96 t-bird with an Autotap, and found it was coming in WAY too early and causing a stumble right off-idle. Putting a small restrictor in the vacuum line kept it from coming on too fast, didn't trigger the PCM/DPFE, and got rid of the stumble. But I never did find a PID for the DPFE flow. Maybe I didn't look well enough ...
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Clubwagon,
This might help you;
EGR Valve Position Sensor
The EGR valve position sensor is a potentiometer that monitors the movement of the EGR valve pintle. The EGR valve position sensor then provides the pintle position to the PCM. The EGR valve position sensor signal varies from approximately 0.50V when the valve is closed to approximately 4.5V when the valve is open.
.................
Good luck
Ken
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:12 PM
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So, if you think it's this "DPFE" sensor, then where is it on the engine? Is it by the EGR?

Thanks for clarifying this. I will hook up the scanner, and monitor it. But, when I have time, I will also take off the dog house, and check the EGR.

Like I said before, if I try to go too soon after starting the engine, then the check engine light comes on. But, if I let it warm up a bit, then it seems OK.

I'm just wondering if it's not build up, and I put a can of sea foam through it, if it would clean it up? Some people swear by putting it into a vacuum source, and letting it run. It smokes like hell, but people swear by it. Have you ever tried it? If so, does it work?

John
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 08:37 AM
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DO NOT sea foam it unless the engine is so bad that you are prepared to throw the engine away.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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Not a big fan of Sea Foam?

Originally Posted by Krewat
DO NOT sea foam it unless the engine is so bad that you are prepared to throw the engine away.
Not a big fan of the stuff, I guess?!?!? I've put it in the gas tank, and nothing has ever blown up. But, I've been on other forums where people talk about putting a vacuum hose in the can, and hooking it up to a vacuum source, and let it suck it out of the can. All I've ever done, is run Amsoil's power foam through the air intake. It does a good job of cleaning everything up. That stuff also smokes like hell, coming out of the pipe! It's also a great carb cleaner. I spray it in my carbs once a year, and never had problems. But, again, I've heard of people who have lots of carbon build up using Sea Foam through the vacuum lines. But, I'm guessing it's not wise?

John
 
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