Well, with gas at 3.40 and diesel 3.75 my 6.9 only needs to get 11.5 mpgs to be cheaper to drive than the V10. Problem is the IDI is an under powered POS that won't get out of its own way to save its life. I found a Banks turbo cheap and am thinking of getting it but have a few things to ask first.

This is a non waste gated turbo.
Not the side winder, the one before it. What kind of boost will it make?

It has no piping or air box, but I can make that.
If I make very free flowing up and down pipes for it with a 6637 filter, will it make to much boost for a stock 6.9? I'm running 7.3 rockers with a 3300 RPM spring. It was just rebuilt a 4,000 miles ago but it has stock head bolts.

Going by the numbers for the newer Banks waste gated kit, it could make 505 ft lbs and 265 HP.

505 ft lbs at 1500 RPM is around 142 HP.

At the same RPM the V10 makes 109.

At 3000 RPM the 6.9 would make around 255.

The V10 makes 240 or so.

Once the V10 is past 3500 it will kill the 6.9, but I'm not doing much towing over 6-7k lbs anymore and thats not as inportant to me as it was in the past.

From the 1500-3000 RPM the IDI could make more power than the V10 and that is the RPM range I spend most of my towing time in now.

The only thing I am unsure of is the head bolts, making my own set up for it and how its boost will compare with the newer waste gated turbo.
Only other thing is its coming off an E4OD truck and I have a ZF5.

Any thoughts?
Thanks guys.

 

A rebuild with stock head bolts

Something to consider is that a non-gated turbo will probably have a larger turbine housing, so the boost will be int he higer RPM's.
Similar to the Hypermax setup. Might want to comapre those numbers.

I'm not positive the non-gated Banks is in fact a larger housing, but it seems like that would be the case.

With free-flowing exhaust and a better intake on an N/A engine, you'll see a significant increase.
A turbo will help MPG's a little bit when driving empty, but the MPG increase will shine on the hills and while towing compared to being N/A.

If you did build your own piping, you might consider a 2" body lift for the truck and trying to build a setup similar to the Powerstroke 7.3. That's what I will be doing this Spring when my project is visible again after the snow melts.

If this link works, I've compiled a bunch of pictures from the web on turbo piping. Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - BlueOvalBud's Album: Turbo picture compilation

If not, here's a 1st generation 7.3 Powerstroke.

 

i promise you wont see 505ft/lbs even at the crank. Not a chance. Well maybe at 30+ boost but still not at the rear wheels. The HP numbers you are quoting are from math or banks? 255 hp at the crank, sure. Rear wheels, no. A stock rebuilt 6.9 should stay under 15psi. operating at 12 would be pretty high even. Seek dave out for help, he put a crap ton of work and thousands to make over 20. milling pistons, custom intake bolts, exhaust bolts, etc etc. Its a lot. You wont need a body lift to throw in the up pipes like a stroke but you dont want free flowing up pipes, 2" Id at most. You want more velocity in the up pipes to speed boost. The DP should be three inch mandrel at minimum and enter into a 4" exhaust setup. Only problem with the stroke up pipe idea is the manifolds, drivers side points straight down....need to get custom manifolds or see if the stroke ones bolt up etc. The old banks setup has a 3" outlet from the turbine. id say it can make plenty more boost than you can handle.

 

The issue is that there's only 1/2" between the rear of the drivers top of the head and the firewall. If you route the pipes over top of the bellhousing, it might fit without a body lift though. But that stinkin' drivers side manifold that's pointing down...that's the issue.

Hey Wreck, tell him a turbo IDI WILL get out of it's own way!

Even the modifications with intake and exhaust Wreck did before the turbo were an awesome upgrade from N/A!

 

I know, I bought it already rebuilt with 400 miles on it.
I got it for 1/3 the price of rebuilding mine so I went with it. The guy built it to stock spec though.

I have a free flowing intake and exhaust on it and its still the most gutless thing I have ever driven.
Yea, non of thats a problem for me too do. I just don't want to put money into this unless I can get the power I want out of it.


What will I see?


Both. I took the Tq numbers from banks wastegated kit and used math to come up with hp at the rpm I wanted to look at.

Banks says 505 Tq@ 1500 RPM.

505/5250x1500= 144.28 HP @ 1500 RPM.

I am talking nothing but FWHP, not rear wheel.


And what will this banks turbo put out?
For the money Dave S spent on his IDI I can buy years of gas for the V10. I will definitly talk to him before I start any work.


Yea, Thats what I was thinking. I'm glad you both said something about velocity. I was going to just make the up pipe as big as would fit.

Thanks for the help

 

When i got my ATS turbo, and got it installed...whew, it hits 7.5lbs of boost in less than a second. I turned the actuator bolt three turns, now hit 9lbs of boost in less than a second. It maintains boost all through the shifts so i know it can go a lot higher. But alas, i dont really want to. I already cant keep grip when the road is dry, much less wet. The best dynod idi turbo numbers thrown are something like 202hp at rear wheels. Speaking of that, what is FWHP? front wheel? four wheel? Only thing that matters is the rear wheel rating, which takes account for the drivetrain loss. A guy with 4.56 and a guy with 3.08 gears will have drastically different HP numbers all over the spectrum. Which is why i know i am killing some numbers as i have a shortened driveshaft, 4.10 gears and the shiftkit C6. My shifts take no time and they engage immediately. Part of the maintained boost. I would say that you should expect no less than 200 rear wheel hp depending on your gearing and trans. If you know what you are doing with a stick, you can roast some numbers as well. As for boost numbers, consider torquing the heads above stock, or studding them and you will handle a lot more. When i said it can produce more than you can handle i mean that it should be find to throw 20+. Its all in the up pipes and DP though. Along with the condition of the turbo itself.

 

Flywheel wreck.

 

Thats not bad. Thats about what the 97-99 V10s with auto trannys make at the rear wheels and I can live with that.

What kind of boost to make that much power?


I hate to spend the money on studs and new head gaskets, but I will if I have to. How far over stock and what will kind of boost with that let me run?

Thats great. So this really can make everything the engine can handle.

I'm just not sure what direction I want to go from here.

The V10 is awesome, but 10 MPGs around town/towing and 13 highway is getting old real fast.

The cost of upkeep on the IDI is only a little more than the V10. The problem is it has only been getting 9-10 MPGs and it has no power. I have to run it WOT non stop to keep up with traffic. Of course, at a CAT scale the truck was 8,400 pounds and it has 3.55s.

The other option is a 99-03 7.3. Slap a chip on it and call it done. The same power as my V10 with better fuel mileage than the IDI can get.
The problem is the PSDs have so many very high dollar parts that can break.

 

ahhhh hehehe, man i are slow.

 

8400 pounds??? WTF? Is it a quad cab long bed with three illegals in the box? Holy crap man. Mine weighs in at an average of 6100. Hmmmm, i see the evolution of my speed now. If all the trucks are really heavy but my frank truck is light, haha, i see now! lol. When i take the trash to the facility, it is anywhere from 2730kg-2800( once was 2990kg.) So i averaged approx 6100lb. Interesting.

 

It was an old oil field truck.

Ranch hand bumper beefed up with 1/4 steel plate behind it.
9 1/2' flat bed beefed up with 1/4 steel plate. 3/16 steel skid plates and a 42 gallon fuel tank custom made out of sheets of 1/4 steel. Best part is after all that they left the stock Dana 50 up front.

Getting it back to stock and selling all the stuff they made for it on Craigs list is something I need to make time for.

 

show them the pics of that tank u call a truck

 

yeah you wont nearly see the numbers i mentioned. That would be like me putting 2 tons in the back and trying to get around like i do. Wouldnt happen. Strip ship or sell it as is, and get another one closer to what you need/want.

 

thats only 2000 lbs more than you wreck he should still be able to get some get up and go outta a stock 7.3. i think its in his injection pump and injectors if he's really legitimately having problems with it.

i know my truck will run circles around a 460..... we went and test drove one (a 97) and that thing was a complete turd compared to my truck. i suppose again thats all in doing the regular service what quality you will get.

my trailer weighs in the neighborhood of 2-4000lbs unloaded and i can still accelerate at a pretty good clip with her hooked up. my injection pump and injectors have 240,000 miles on them. i imagine to if it was a Gov't or Company truck back in the day isn't there a chance the pump was detuned to prevent hot rodding? i know this is the case with the new 6.7L cab and chassis, and didn't uhaul do this to their fleet as well when they were running IDI's?

 

Selling the stuff on it I can make a pretty good amount.

What I'm thinking is sell everything off of it that I don't want and spend the money on the turbo. I have the stock skid plates, bed and fuel tanks off a parts truck to put on it.
Then I'll give it a decent repaint and I should be good to go.