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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1972 C6 - rebuild kit???

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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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JJS72XLT
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1972 C6 - rebuild kit???

C6 in my '72 truck takes more than a few moments from cold start to engage reverse gear. Same thing when shifting from reverse to drive. No problems once the trans warms up. Doesn't slip while shifting to any gear, although the 1-2 shift happens pretty quickly. Fresh fluid in sump and torque converter, fluid at proper level on dipstick when fully warmed up. (Been doing the delayed initial shift for quite a while, thought maybe fresh fluid would help.....old fluid coming out looked fine, just a little dark red, not by much. Changing fluid didn't help....)

The trans has never been out of the truck and has about 110K on it. Thoughts? Am considering a rebuild, which kit? Have heard good and bad on several forums on TCI and other brands.

Appreciate any insight on this one.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 05:24 PM
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arctic y block
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Napa kit's are as good as any. Maybe try some Lucas trans treatment. I have seen the stuff do wonders. I wont use it in an engine but have in trannys and it could get ya down the road a while longer. My luck has been that changing the fluid in one that is starting to slip usually kills them in short order.

If you are sure ya are going to rebuild it that do not use the Lucas. It makes a sticky mess. C6/C4 is an easy rebuildable Tranny
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 09:32 PM
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wasowski
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here is what my book says. The adjuster for the intermediate band is on the drivers side of the trans, a couple of inches above the pan bolts and a couple of inches forward of where the shift linkage enters the trans. It is the only bolt there. You loosen the lock nut a couple of turns, hold the lock nut and torque the threaded adjuster to 10ft.lbs (need a very acurate torque wrench). Now BACK OFF the adjuster exactly one and a half turns. Hold the adjuster and tighten the lock nut to 35-45ft.lbs.
The adjuster for the Low-Reverse band is on the pass side of the trans case a couple of inches up from the pan bolts and right at the back of the side of case. Proceedure is exactly the same except that you BACK OFF the adjuster exactly THREE turns then hold it and tighten the lock nut.
If it was me I would probably just reuse the lock nuts. They may be available at a parts store or you may have to get them from somewhere like wittrans.com
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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wasowski
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I think this works for the c4 and the c6,might have to do more leg work but this might help ya
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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arctic y block
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Originally Posted by wasowski
I think this works for the c4 and the c6,might have to do more leg work but this might help ya
Good info Bud. That was available in the rebuild kid instructions I used to get.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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Think I'm going to go with the Borg Warner master rebuild kit, that way I can go ahead and replace the two bands along with just about everything else.....anyone have any good/bad experiences with the B/W kits?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:21 PM
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arctic y block
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B/W is a quality kit.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:53 PM
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Could be just something sticky in the valve body... Pull the pan and see how much old material is in there. If you are comfortable with a rebuild, have at it, but I think you may be able to adjust out your problems without one. I'd give it a go, if it doesn't work, then tear it down. The rebuild is pretty straight forward. There was a place I picked up a video I will look for, had some nice cheap to free upgrades too..
--Mike
 
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