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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #16  
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I understand that but i didn't have to pay for any parts. I just wanted to delete some of the obvious. i been looking at a lot of forms last two days and eveyone has been having good points...any way. Im very and i mean very limit to money so taking care of big money items are limited unless im 100% sure that it was it is. so i started small and working my way up. I reseted all codes and now im only pulling 334 and 211, 211 is leaning toward distributor wiring. so i will try to find a used one next weekend and see if that helps the prob. and if it dose work i will go buy new. you cant return electric item once installed so im have to go to the used department. but i did see the fuel circiut code but thats from me playing with it a few weeks ago, i took the pump out and ran it dry once to see if i had any probs. i heard a funny noise thats why i investigated. Im just frustrated right now, im really good at these things but this one got me. me im more on the mechanic side then electrical......
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #17  
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American Thunder
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From: Upstate New York
Originally Posted by Dr. Bronconstein
Sure am glad I sold my 95 that sounds like a lot of gibberish to this old plumber.
Strangely enough, I'm a PC hardware tech on the side, but I don't work on vehicles with computers in them. heh!
I can usually tell you what's wrong with an older motor by listening to it and driving it, but not these newer ones. Thank god for the forum, eh??
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 07:05 PM
  #18  
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Dr. Bronconstein
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From: edmonton ab
Originally Posted by American Thunder
Strangely enough, I'm a PC hardware tech on the side, but I don't work on vehicles with computers in them. heh!
I can usually tell you what's wrong with an older motor by listening to it and driving it, but not these newer ones. Thank god for the forum, eh??
That is a heavy front end, but I bet she's a powerhouse. How was the fit putting that monster6 under the hood. I've got a 24valve been wondering what to do with it
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 07:20 PM
  #19  
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From: Upstate New York
You can buy the mounts, and adapter, flexplate, and all, from destroked or fordcummins, and it's actually a fairly easy swap. The motor weighs right around 1000 lbs, so it's not too bad.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 10:13 PM
  #20  
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Is there any chance you have water in the gas? I got a bad tank of gas in my '96 and it had similar problems. I replaced the fuel filter, added three cans of dry gas, and after awhile it ran better until I finally could add 1/2 tank of fresh gas which cleared up the problem.

Al
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #21  
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ok took the chance and when out and pickup a pickup and cleaned out the distributor really good and woo laa.....fire...... She still running lean and threw new code put i fixed that. plug harness had a bent sline. she was arching. fixed....but i hear a weird clicking sound when i floored it going up and down the road. im gonna have to keep a eye on that. I might just go buy a new distributor now that i know what it was.........SO thank you all so much and i will report back when i really hit the road this weekend.... BikeWeek and all...lol
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 06:44 PM
  #22  
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im having simmalar problems with differnt codes.. anyone know what code 33 is? its not in the haynes book.. unless im reading them wrong. just put a new iac, cap and rotar. ignition control modual. fresh spark plugs, fresh coil. mines a 89 351 if it makes any differance. im sure it dose.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #23  
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Code 33 - indicates that either the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve did not open or the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor has failed.

There are different possibilities as to the cause with each appearance within the test results.

If received during CM (Continuous Memory) Codes, the problem occurred the last time the engine was run or earlier. If you don't get the same Code DURING the KOER test the condition that caused the code no longer exists.

If Code 33 is received during the KOER test, first, make certain the vacuum supply to the EGR valve is connected and there are no breaks in the line.

If the vacuum line is intact, apply an outside source of vacuum to the barb on the EGR valve. (Suck on it or use a vacuum pump). Watch through the holes in the side of the valve to make certain the diaphragm is indeed opening the pintle when vacuum is applied. If the pintle doesn't move when vacuum is applied, replace the EGR valve. If it does move, replace the EVP sensor mounted to the top of the EGR valve.

This Code ONLY triggers during the CM or KOER test. KOEO is a static test and cannot determine dynamic changes while the engine is running.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 04:13 AM
  #24  
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ok. she is running like a badass now and im still worried about how lean she is running. no smoke but man its so bad that i cant drive with the rear window down with out gagging. and now if im at a current steady speed she is inter mittin pretty steady.....any ??????? to that. not shooting anymore codes other then 334, will the EGR make those conflicts....
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #25  
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Yes, it will. If the computer has no idea what the position of the EGR valve is or cannot control it, it will assume that the EGR is not functioning and dump extra air into the system to compensate causing your lean condition. And since the EGR only functions at certain times, the computer is constantly trying to adjust for it not being there and the back again.
 
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