Hi everyone,

This is my first post, but I've been looking at this forum for a while and have learned a lot from the knowledgeable contributors spending some of their time here. So firstly, thanks for that.

Now, my question. My 2001 Ford Escape now has 102,000 miles on it and is generally in very good shape for its age. For some internal reason, I have begun to consider changing the transmission fluid. I bought the car used and have no record of any trans fluid changes before I acquired it, but the fluid still has a slightly pink tinge to it and no burnt odor and I'd like to change it in hopes of maximizing the life of the transmission and, thereby, the car.

I have decided that a flush is too dangerous at this point and have opted for the progressive dilution method. 4 out and 4 in.

Here is the problem. I don't have a floor jack or jack stands. I use ramps to get the the bottom of my Escape. The progressive dilution method calls for the transmission to be moved through each of the gears successively, however I will be unable to do this as the front wheels will be resting on the ramps. Would it be a bad idea to do the 4 out 4 in method and then roll it off the ramps and drive it around to move the car through the gears?

I certainly don't want to hurt the transmission while trying to do preventive maintenance like so many others have inadvertently done in the past.

Any and all help is appreciated. Let me know if there is any info about my situation that is needed that I might have left out.

Thanks again,

bmart

 

I really don't see how in the world it would possibly make any difference.......40 years of playing with cars and doing my own work! If there is a mechnical issue, it's going to fail anyway.

 

you can do it that way easy, you can go through the gears with it on the ramp (foot on the Brake!!) BUT you have to get it of the stands to properly check the fluid level anyways, and if it is a little low after putting 4 in its not going to be enough to hurt the tranny moving it that little bit

 

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It appears that you're confused, tonyford. Would you like some clarification?

 

Not so much confused, but can't figure out what you are asking. I've posted the progressive dilution process on here awhile back. What I think you are asking has something to do with running the transmission thru it's gears.

Remember you only have to do the 4qt. fill and drain procedure ONCE. After than you just drain and fill your trans. about every other oil change or if you want to go a little longer that's okay too. I do it every 12,000 to 15,000 miles.

Okay what I would do and what I did the first time, drain the 4 qts. and refill with 4 qts. roll the vehicle off the jack stands or whatever you are using to raise the front of the vehicle. Drive the vehicle for a couple of miles, just make sure you stop now and then so the transmission can go thru all gears. That's it. Raise the vehicle up again and drain and fill 4 more quarts. You would do this 3 times and then your done. Easy.

 

Thanks, Tony. Sorry it's been so long since I've posted a reply, but your suggestion worked.

Now I have a new problem related to the ignition coil on a rear cylinder, but I will start a new topic for that.

 

I did the drain and refill, but mine dumped about 6 quarts. Given the information that I would need 2 sets of 4 quarts, I had 8 available. I quit while I was ahead, and just changed 60% of the fluid. The drain plug was installed so tightly I had to use a breaker bar to loosen it. I figure next time I will do the same.
You should realize that the fluid inside the transmission, with the engine running, looks like some infernal machine sprung about 6,000 leaks all at once. The things absolutely bleed fluid from about every orifice and internal seal. Meaning that you really only need to put the transmission through every shift lever position with the engine running to get almost everything applied and released .. almost. The few that are skipped won't make that much difference in the volume of the fluid exchange. The most a servo or clutch could hold would be in the volume range of 1/2 cup or so for a servo, and not much different for a clutch pack, likely less given the limited movement of the apply piston, on the order of .060" or less.
The fluid, old and new, would be mixed indiscriminately right after the engine starts to turn the torque converter and pump gears. The converter has a LOT of churn from the moment the engine starts as the outer shell turns, there is a 'stator' that sits still, with blades, and the output impeller. So, in neutral, the blades inside the converter push the oil against the stator, which in turn, directs the oil against the output blades. The torque is amplified by the 'torus' of fluid moving inside the converter. It is almost like a donut of fluid circulating within the converter, so it is mixed very well.
tom

 

Here's what I have done on every vehicle (auto trans) that I have owned for 30 years....

At 20k miles, I change the filter (due to possible residual/initial wear particulates that may be floating inside) and either drain the torque converter (if so equipped with a plug) or disconnect the trans cooler line at the radiator, fill the pan with fresh fluid, my wife starts the engine and when 2-3 quarts drain into a bucket, she shuts it off, I refill the pan and repeat until the fluid is clear and in case of the f150, 14 quarts of fresh fluid is in.

I change only the fluid after that (unless I determine substances/contamination in the oil). The intervals vary depending on the type of trans, type of fluid and conditions, but in general, every 30k miles. Heat is a killer on automatic trans fluid and when we lived in the desert area, I changed the trans fluid at the end of summer every year.

In regards to filters, oem is fine, but I typically use Wix.

In regards to trans oil, both in sticks and auto's I have always used Valvoline.

I have also never had a trans failure in any vehicle I own and typically keep my vehicles for 10+ years, with over 100k on the odometer.

 

Beechkid, if you own an Escape, Mariner, Tribute, Contour or Mystique with the CD4E, you will not be changing the filter unless you drop the transmission out the bottom and take it apart.
Do you happen to know the specification for "Mercon V" to know if it requires synthetic oil for its base stock? I am curious because I read somewhere it was at least partial synthetic, yet see no notation of such on any of the containers I have seen so far.

btw, I have almost 250k on an AXOD with, I think, 3 or 4 filter/fluid changes using the pan drop only method. I agree, heat is the enemy of automatic transmissions longevity.
tom

 

Yeah...only own V8's.....Mercon V is full syn.