Alrighty, many thanks for the fellas that hooked me with the tips and tricks info on drilling and tapping my new carb spacer for vac ports. Never did it before, went well, only wish there was more to do. Now, I fired her up, went to go for a short ride, as I tried to accelerate (not quickly, just normal), she started to bog down. I eased off, tried again, she bogged again. I tried to "force" her a little, just kept increasing pedal pressure, but she was acting like something is hung up, she didn't want to roll out for me. I was wondering if I should have dressed the threads of the new vac ports with teflon tape or something? The gaskets should be O.K., they came with the new spacer, good fit. I picked up some vac caps, and put them on the new extra port I put in, the un-used ports on the vac tree too. Can you check the brake booster somehow for leaks? I was having a problem with the PCV line be sucked shut, wondered if that is it. I had 3/8" heater hose I think, I switched it to 3/8" fuel line, seems a little less forgiving. What do you use? I ended up turning around and coming home and I haven't driven her yet, so here I am. Is there something you all think I should check in particular? The novice strikes again.... Later, Blair

 

how did the floor pans go. did you get to those yet?

 

No I sure didn't. I thought I was gonna be big bad Mr. fix-it, tear out the old stuff, throw these in rivet'em and go. But my step-dad, talked me into waiting until this spring, he's gonna give me a few mig lessons starting early next month when he's free. I'm saving my pennies to get some of the other body panels I need to do the cab and bed, hope to do it all in one or two weekends. I really should have done it last fall when you sent them up, the sides along the threshold are really terrible, she is BARELY getting thru inspection up here. What you been doing? later, Blair

 

I found that I hadn't reconnected the vac line for the secondaries, however she is still reading around 15-16 on the gauge, light fluctuation. Is this a symptom of the carb\spacer\intake area? Any way to rule out the booster unit? Tips or tricks for that or should I replace it to eliminate it? Thanks for ideas, Blair

 

For the PCV hose I like to run 11/32 PCV hose. It's one of my pet peeves. I know they make it and I hate it when no one knows what it is at the parts store. Anyway, enough ranting.
Sounds like you've got a fuel delivery problem or plugged exhaust. How did it run before the swap? What does the vacuum gauge read when you try to accelerate? Which vacuum line to the secondaries are you referring to?
Greg

 

It was from the advance up to the carb, that was a big "duh" on my part. I haven't run it with the gauge hooked up, have to try it. She rtan O.K. before swap, I swapped spacers due to the old having coolant ports, was starting to leak out around those. Tiny cracks. The new spacer is one of those alum generic from AZ that I tapped to accomdate the PCV line and the booster also, that way I could plug the rear vac tree suggested by Torque1st. The carb needs some minor adjustments also, have to try to fine tune it. I thought that the gauge was a little low, and it's fluctuating slightly. I'll try to drive it a little later and post something back. Later, Blair

 

I hooked up the gauge today and had her warmed up too. She was @ 15 inHg , sometimes dipped to 14inHg. She seemed rather steady, moved only slightly back and forth. Could something internal be the culprit? Or is vaccum strictly related to outer components? School me. I didn't get a chance to get out with her and the gauge hooked up, I need to get some longer hose. I did get my carb spray, I figured if I could shoot it on the vac leak, then the gauge reading would go up. But I went thru a half-can along the intake and carb/spacer area, but nothing happened, truck didn't smooth out any, and the gauge never did change. Would bad/weak valve seals affect vaccum? The guy who helped me out before said those might be going bad, my compression was a little low, but maybe that doesn't pertain to this situation. The carb is set pretty good for now I think. Any ideas, thanks, Blair

 

Hello again. Sounds like your timing may be a bit slow. Also check to make sure that your accelerator pump is working. With the engine off, look down the top of the carb and slowly push the throttle open. You should see gas squirting down the carb. My 460 runs best with the timing at about 14 degrees. Where do you have your vac. advance hooked up to? Which vacuum port? The on on the passenger side of the carb?
Jimmy

 

There is a difference in hose. Black rubber hoses are not equal. Heater hose will not stand up to fuel and crankcase vapors. It will soften and collapse. You can use fuel line hose for the smaller <=3/8" PCV lines but for the larger lines you want the emissions hose specified above. It will not collapse as easy in vacuum service.

Tiny vacuum leaks will not cause the symptoms you describe. It is more likely your timing or something is off.

Use paste type pipe dope for your threaded pipe fittings.

 

If you still have the Automatic choke hooked up, the Vacuam is used to 'pull' the choke open when it's warmed up.
That chimney may be open beneath the manifold, and the 'pull' hose is then connected to a pipe going down into the exhaust riser. Pulling hot air right into the manifold.
It sounds like your timing is too slow to me too.
If you accelerate and hear Pinging it's too fast. But just before you hear pinging is pretty good.
Try that. Pinging is not good, but just before pinging is good.

 

Pipe dome on the threads, will do T1st. Hey Jimmy, the vac advance is on the pass side at the top port behind the fuel bowl. I guess that's the regular spot? It was hooked there on the other carb I have. I'll have to check that timing, the motor is stock, with the new chain set @ straight up. I got some 3/8" fuel line for the PCV, seems O.K. now. On the elec. choke, I have it wired in. I removed the choke (stove)? assembly previously, I fab'd a tin cover to close it off, but I didn't think that any vac came from there, it just circulated through there for heat. I drove her briefly today, still acts funny, wants to stumble. Tomorrow, I'll check timing, accel. pump, almost sure of carb settings, be back to you tomorrow evening. Many thanks for your time and input. Later, Blair

 

Another thing, when eye-balling the carb, I found a small metallic piece sitting in the rear drivers side venturi. I pulled it out carefully, but my digi cam is not at home, I wanted to post a pic and see what you thought. I wanted to know if any you guys could reconize it as a smushed bearing or something. Or just junk that I got lucky to have roll where it did. It wasn't there a few days ago, hoping it's junk that rolled in, I have virtually no rubber around my engine compartment. Later, Blair

 

Blair, You vac adv is hooked up in the right spot. You could also have a faulty vacuum advance diaphram. After you reset the timing, Hook the vac line back up. With the engine idling, put tour timing light on the marks, then watch the timing marks and lightly accelerate the engine. The timing mark should move as soon as you start opening the throttle. If not, the advance diaphram could be bad. This will make the engine sluggish. Let me know what your timing turns out to be and if your advance is working properly. Jimmy

 

Check the accel pump, got a nice even squirt from both sides of the shooter, I picked up the pipe dope for those threads on my new ports, although that is probably not the problem. I worked late last night, started raining a few minutes ago, if it stops for a bit, I'll pull out the timing light and check the advance and marks out. Back after a while, Blair

 

Jimmy, rained like a mother here yesterday, I didn't do a thing. I just got home, have the timing light hooked up, but now it's thundering like hell, hope to check the advance sometime this evening and post back. Later, Blair