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how do i replace my gas tank?

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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #16  
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only thing is to remove the bed i wuld have to remove my tool box then bedliner... then try to get people around to lift bed off and such.. this weekend i will be ordering me a new tank but it prolli wont be installed till the following weekend. but i will be doing a tuneup n oil change and trying to figure out the self test thing to git rid of this high idle.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #17  
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Re Tanks

I have done this on 4 different trucks and I do agree that it is easier with the bed off, especially the rear tank but both can be done with the bed on. If you do go to the trouble of taking the bed off, then replace both tanks while your at it since they both leak.

Alan
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #18  
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eaiser said then done logan.. money dont grow on trees round here...
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 09:56 AM
  #19  
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Re

You want to come over and get a start from my money tree?
Seriously though, I hear ya. just saying if you can swing it, it would save you double work in removing the bed.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #20  
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Honestly if I had the money I would. But with the cost of gas right now here at 3.45gal. I really don't need both tanks working. Plus I really don't use truck that much. I drive it on weekends bc I'm cramed in my escort driving 700+miles a week for work and I have the option not to drive a 4cyl 35mpg ricer....
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:27 AM
  #21  
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So can I use my factory bolts over again or should I jus grab new ones?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #22  
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How is the salt situation in NJ you may not be able to get the old bolts off. I thought about taking the bed off when I replaced the rear tank on my 87. PO had a 5th wheel hitch on so I only had to take 4 bolts off. However having an 85 same set up parts truck with the bed off, I tried to remove the rear tank from the top. It didn't want to come out. So I found it easier to drop the tank with the bed on.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #23  
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If you do ge the bolts off you can re use them. I'd spray em w some WD-40 or something before you start cranking on em
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #24  
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After swapping the tank on my 92', the front tank, my bet is get new bolts...Trust me....$5 extra saves you a BIG headache and a PITA if the bolt breaks, gets stuck, etc...Especially in case you have to repeat the procedure...I just use regular grease to lube mine...

-Wes
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 01:31 PM
  #25  
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I might be a little late mentioning this, but the fuel line disconnecting tools are cheap and I doubt anyone rents them. I'm sure they'll come in handy for something else as many cars have these connections.
I needed them for the fuel lines at the engine when I did my swap a few months back.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 02:03 PM
  #26  
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My 1983 is still running on its original gas tank. How dirty do these gas tanks typically get over 30 years and 200K miles?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 02:11 PM
  #27  
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It would all depend on the quality of fuel, the climate it's been operated in and if it's sat for any period of time.
I wouldn't pound on the fuel tank for any reason unless you want to stir up any old sediment.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 02:54 PM
  #28  
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Between $8-11......For the disconnect tools....

My 94's front tank that swapped onto my 92', the tank was clean as a whistle inside....Outside was a different story....

-Wes
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #29  
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Very heavily salted roads 3 months straight every year pretty much....
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:29 PM
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Salt = rusty nuts and bolts. You have to be careful taking nuts off, don't want to round off the holes in the bed (they are elongated to hold the bolt).
 
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