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Just found this thread. I have a similar problem with my 64 F350. Temp never seems to get up and will run at highway speeds registering barely over 115 on the gauge with air temps in the 40s. I ran across something called a thermo bob whick is a fix for my motorcycle which has a similar problem albeit not as bad. You can google "thermo bob klr" to find out about the aftermarket fix for my Kawasaki motorcycle. http://members.***.net/watt-man/WhatIsATB.pdf
Im thinking my Ford has the same trouble...cooling systems have advanced along with everything else. The Ford is always running coolant through the radiator thus cooling the coolant even when it doesnt need to be. The bypass should not bypass the thermostat but instead bypass the radiator letting the coolant circulate more through the engine. Im thinking of looking around and seeing if I can find some kind of thermostat housing and Tees to install a "thermo bob" in my truck.
Im concerned about the internals on my truck not getting to proper temp. I believe some of my off idle carb hiccups under heavy load might get better also.
Are you sure the gauge is right?
If you have a thermostat installed, it's getting up to temperature. The engine just is not capable of getting rid of the heat quickly enough without circulating coolant through the radiator.
The first thing to do is to verify that the gauge is reading correctly. The easiest way to do that is to use a laser or infrared thermometer and point it at an area close to the sender.
Another contributor, what engine is in your '64? A Y-Block has the sender installed in an area at which the coolant is not yet at it's highest temperature; even the most accurate gauge will read 10 - 15 degrees cooler than the temperature in the thermostat housing.
180 was the lowest temperature thermostat I could get.
Which diameter thermostats do y'all have, there were two choices.
If 2 1/2" diameter, t/stats are available from NAPA in all heat ranges. The trick is...you have to get the parts person to actually look in their printed parts catalog for the numbers, cuz the info is not listed in their computer.
If 2 1/8" diameter, the same t/stats (160/170/180/190/197) were used in myriad 1966 and later Passenger Car I-6's and V8's (except 351C/351M/400). 1967 and later I-6, V8 F100/350s, Bronco's and Econolines.
Hey, I thought I would post, I blocked part of my radiator with a piece of plastic, and it heated right up. I think the piece I used was a little too much because it heated up real quick, but I can work on that. Thanks for all the info.]
I'll have to do the same before next winter. Mine is the same way running a 190 degree thermostat. Works great in the summer. Put my temp sender right in the thermostat housing so I can see when it opens. Summer will open and run 180 degrees on the hottest days. Cold winter day, idleing 150-160 and won't hit 130 degrees. Since I was worried about overheating having a modified engine, installed aluminum rad and with the aluminum head think it's a little too efficent cooling.
I had the same issue on my 66 F250 I had, I took the 352 out, and had the radiator "adjusted" to work with my 300 I6 I put in,,, it cooled way to much, even going up to a 195 it ran cool, and would only heat up, going uphill towing tractor and trailer,,, in the winter, I would take a piece of cardboard, paint it black and put in front of the radiator,,, just to stay warm!
i had a similar problem once- my truck would slowly overheat unless i was on the highway. so, i replaced the water pump...over one of the coldest christmas holidays i can remember.
i FROZE driving home from the family get-together.
turns out...the old water pump was bad...AND the thermostat was frozen open. so when i replaced the pump, water started circulating full-speed immediately, and the truck never got a chance to warm up.
I was working in the engine bay on my 66 yesterday, and remembered this thread so I took a moment to look at the radiator.
What stuck in my mind is how small this little 6 cylinder radiator is...even compared to the radiator that was in my slant six Valiant. I'm thinking that since you replaced your radiator with an aftermarket replacement that was somewhat wider, then your chief issue is that you have too much radiator.
The 65 I had in college ran cool and the other day here in Houston, when it got up to 90 degrees outside, my 66 ran about 190 and that's it....which means it triggered the thermostat (which is a 190) and that's it.
These little things run cool...which is no wonder....the water passages in these blocks are huge.
A solution might be to make some sheet pieces that take the place of your cardboard, that can be easily put on and taken off as needed. Then you could paint them black and they'd blend in back there. That would be in lieu of getting a correct replacement radiator....but I know they're pricey....so that may not be an immediate option for you.
yea, i'm bettin on a clogged heater core. if you have a heat gun, point it at 1 heater inlet copper pipe, then the other. if it is clogged , you'll see it there. then remove both hoses, set up a temporary 2 hose set to the core, and run some drain-o\ liquid plummer thru one side, then flush out on to the ground\bucket with water. repeat until you are satisfied. let us know partner