Spring Swap! Then what?
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From: Central Coast of CA
Since you carry a load often, I'd go with W codes up front, Modified B codes out back (keep the stock Excursion blocks) along with the RAS.
Stewart
Stewart
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I've read some about the modified B code. What's the story with that? Is there an advantage?
As far as the blocks go Top Gun claims they taper their custom built steel blocks with a taper to go along with the height ordered. Check em out.
As far as the blocks go Top Gun claims they taper their custom built steel blocks with a taper to go along with the height ordered. Check em out.
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From: Central Coast of CA
Stewart
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From: Joliet Il
Thanks for the reply's.
You have alot of good info on our trucks.
I read one of your posts were you indicated your V codes were starting to sag after 100,000 or so miles on them.
You fealt the W codes (f-450,f-550 non snow plow )would be the way to go the 2nd time around. Once they settled they would be at level of V codes and probably wouldn't have to be replaced again due to sagging.
You fealt the ride wouldn't be as hard as x-codes (snow plow).
Did you do that swap yet.
(##############################################
Money is tight and I thought about used W codes ($200) after settling(sag) might be at level with new V codes?
Stock Rear springs, with 350 tappered blocks.(will that level me out)?
RAS later
Or used V codes with saging (wear) might put me level with rear with out tappered blocks and only RAS to level it out?
#########################################)
Any in put on above would be appricated.(#############)
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From: Central Coast of CA
To me, sagging connotates the springs are no longer useful. Mine still are, they just aren't as high (slightly lower now) as when first put on, but they still work quite well.
You fealt the W codes (f-450,f-550 non snow plow )would be the way to go the 2nd time around. Once they settled they would be at level of V codes and probably wouldn't have to be replaced again due to sagging.
You fealt the ride wouldn't be as hard as x-codes (snow plow).
Did you do that swap yet.
Stock Rear springs, with 350 tappered blocks.(will that level me out)?
RAS later
RAS later
Stewart
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Joliet Il
Thanks Stewart
I understand the application now.
With the modified B's haws the ride in the rear.
I don't carry a load so I probably will go with stock B's/Tappered blocks?
When you did the spring swaps did your bolts at shackles come out easly or did you have to cut bolts off and remove spring.
What would be your suggestion, I'm in the rust belt.
I understand the application now.
With the modified B's haws the ride in the rear.
I don't carry a load so I probably will go with stock B's/Tappered blocks?
When you did the spring swaps did your bolts at shackles come out easly or did you have to cut bolts off and remove spring.
What would be your suggestion, I'm in the rust belt.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Central Coast of CA
Everything I've read tells me the ride isn't much different than the "standard" B's.
That's what I have.
People normally go with the modified B's so they don't have to use the larger tapered block.
No rust belt for me. Hand tools and arm strength and my stuff came off without a problem.
For you, I'd invest in a can of PB Blaster and pre-soak all the bolts and nuts every day for a few days (a week?) if it's as bad as you suggest.
My floor jacks came in real handy, as did a second set of hands my buddy provided.
Take your front bumper off (VERY easily done) to access the front spring eye bolt to remove the front springs.
For the rears, loosen several of the brackets for the rear AC line to coax them over (gently!) so you can get to the rear spring.
Stewart
I don't carry a load so I probably will go with stock B's/Tappered blocks?
People normally go with the modified B's so they don't have to use the larger tapered block.
When you did the spring swaps did your bolts at shackles come out easly or did you have to cut bolts off and remove spring.
What would be your suggestion, I'm in the rust belt.
What would be your suggestion, I'm in the rust belt.
For you, I'd invest in a can of PB Blaster and pre-soak all the bolts and nuts every day for a few days (a week?) if it's as bad as you suggest.
My floor jacks came in real handy, as did a second set of hands my buddy provided.
Take your front bumper off (VERY easily done) to access the front spring eye bolt to remove the front springs.
For the rears, loosen several of the brackets for the rear AC line to coax them over (gently!) so you can get to the rear spring.
Stewart
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So I'm getting everything ready to do my V and P swap next weekend and I measured my wheel opening height today to try and figure out what size rear block I need. I measured 38 3/8 in the front and 38 1/2 in the rear. I was expecting to get the 1 1/2 inch lift in the front but the guys that gained that much lift say they started with 37 1/2". Does that mean that I will only get about 3/4" lift in the front? How bout the rear. Most guys say they started with around 40 and ended up with 40 1/2 with the B swap. I am doing P's which I think is the same as a B because the rate is the same but will I end up seeing an 1 1/2" to 2" in the back? All I'm trying to do is figure out what blocks and U-bolts I will need. Any thoughts?
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From: Kenna,wv
For reference-
Past 03 X V10 4X4- Did V codes and gained 2" front. Added F350 rear tapered block and ubolts to bring the rear up 2".
Current 01 7.3 4X4- Did X codes and F350 rear tapered block and ubolts.. Gained 2" all around. The front springs have settled a bit more on the diesel than the V10 obviously. Thats why i went with X codes on the diesel. Ride is not bad at all. As far as shocks, I used stock length in both cases. The X codes pushed the limit on the diesel as they were not far from being topped out when the springs were new. Not that they have settled, I am not worried about it.
Past 03 X V10 4X4- Did V codes and gained 2" front. Added F350 rear tapered block and ubolts to bring the rear up 2".
Current 01 7.3 4X4- Did X codes and F350 rear tapered block and ubolts.. Gained 2" all around. The front springs have settled a bit more on the diesel than the V10 obviously. Thats why i went with X codes on the diesel. Ride is not bad at all. As far as shocks, I used stock length in both cases. The X codes pushed the limit on the diesel as they were not far from being topped out when the springs were new. Not that they have settled, I am not worried about it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: The Great White North!
So I'm getting everything ready to do my V and P swap next weekend and I measured my wheel opening height today to try and figure out what size rear block I need. I measured 38 3/8 in the front and 38 1/2 in the rear. I was expecting to get the 1 1/2 inch lift in the front but the guys that gained that much lift say they started with 37 1/2". Does that mean that I will only get about 3/4" lift in the front? How bout the rear. Most guys say they started with around 40 and ended up with 40 1/2 with the B swap. I am doing P's which I think is the same as a B because the rate is the same but will I end up seeing an 1 1/2" to 2" in the back? All I'm trying to do is figure out what blocks and U-bolts I will need. Any thoughts?
The u bolts should be replaced with new, so if you have to cut them off because of rust I wouldn't worry too much about it. There are stock #'s somewhere for the front u bolts to use, the rear ones will be a little harder to match so you might want to find someone in the area that makes them and get some made after the swap and measurements are taken.
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I modified F codes by adding last two leafs from Excursion spring pack. Throw out the Excursion overload with bumper. This gives a the proper rake and height needed for a good ride, along with V codes up front. See picture in sig.
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Ditto the X codes. I put them on my 2000 V10 and didn't notice the ride worsening. They sure handled my plow better. That was b4 I lifted it.
Have any of you guys used front shackles and if so which ones? I have 6"BDS lift and need a little more up front to eliminate rubbing. BDS claims on the Ex you have to do both front hangers...
Have any of you guys used front shackles and if so which ones? I have 6"BDS lift and need a little more up front to eliminate rubbing. BDS claims on the Ex you have to do both front hangers...
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 96
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From: Cartersville, GA
I did the V/modified F swap a while back. It's the best thing I have done so far to the truck. I do wish I had gone bigger in the front tho. From the ground to the top of the wheel well is 43.5" in the back and 39" in the front. Getting ready to put 35" tires on it and another inch or two up front would be nice. Trying to decide if I should swap again to X codes, add blocks or what.Any suggestions? Anyone have part numbers for the X codes?
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