1983 Econoline coachmen fuel gauge problem
#16
I thought about starting a thread detailing how I did a fuel pump replacement on the rear tank of mine, but didn't get enough pics, I will tell you about it though because it may help you:
(I made 6" ramps and backed mine up onto them to give me more room to work)
1. you'll have to disconnect the hoses to the filler neck (2" and 3/4" on mine for vapor return), I fought these off and in the end had to replace them (fuel line is expensive, about $12 a foot) because the end on the tank was messed up. If you have a way of checking both ends first, visually or with your hand and it is damaged you'll save time and energy cutting it and pulling it off.
2. drop it only enough to get your arm up there first, on mine there was a vent tube that fits into the center top of the tank, and you have to disconnect the wires (they should have a single plug on the end)
watch the ground wire, on mine it was on the top of a frame rail and short, I did not do the above and let the tank drop too far and it broke from it's connector (I put a new end on it and bolted it to the frame since no way was I getting that damned screw loose)
If you can get the tank empty (as mine was AFTER I got it down) then you will likely find it easier coming in and out (if dropping it all the way) with you handling it and a buddy using the jack when necessary to hold it. It's not that heavy and was easier for me to manuever into place (the rear tank the hoses going over the frame make it a angled affair going in and out) and have my uncle jack it up when I was ready.
I hope that is some help.
Red
(I made 6" ramps and backed mine up onto them to give me more room to work)
1. you'll have to disconnect the hoses to the filler neck (2" and 3/4" on mine for vapor return), I fought these off and in the end had to replace them (fuel line is expensive, about $12 a foot) because the end on the tank was messed up. If you have a way of checking both ends first, visually or with your hand and it is damaged you'll save time and energy cutting it and pulling it off.
2. drop it only enough to get your arm up there first, on mine there was a vent tube that fits into the center top of the tank, and you have to disconnect the wires (they should have a single plug on the end)
watch the ground wire, on mine it was on the top of a frame rail and short, I did not do the above and let the tank drop too far and it broke from it's connector (I put a new end on it and bolted it to the frame since no way was I getting that damned screw loose)
If you can get the tank empty (as mine was AFTER I got it down) then you will likely find it easier coming in and out (if dropping it all the way) with you handling it and a buddy using the jack when necessary to hold it. It's not that heavy and was easier for me to manuever into place (the rear tank the hoses going over the frame make it a angled affair going in and out) and have my uncle jack it up when I was ready.
I hope that is some help.
Red
#17
#18
I guess the hose that is for gasoline is expensive here. Napa was only place out of 4 chains that had it. I think 2ft' of the 2' and 2 of the 3/4" cost me 40-45 bucks. something like that. I was told that regular hose would deteriorate from the fuel. I'd like a lead on where to buy it online for next time. I'm sure eventually something will have to be done with the front tank, and my uncle just had to replace the same hose on his 79 f150.
thanks.
Red
thanks.
Red
#19
I have bough rolls of low pressure fuel hose from O'Reilly and Carquest in their stores.
I am not sure why you keep saying 3/4" are you talking about outside to outside measurement?
You fuel hose should be 3/8" or 5/16", that is the only sizes fuel hose I have ever seen on any Ford.
Fuel hose and heater hose is measured inside.
3/4" heater hose is the larger heater hose.
Maybe that is why the other stores did not have any.
I am not sure why you keep saying 3/4" are you talking about outside to outside measurement?
You fuel hose should be 3/8" or 5/16", that is the only sizes fuel hose I have ever seen on any Ford.
Fuel hose and heater hose is measured inside.
3/4" heater hose is the larger heater hose.
Maybe that is why the other stores did not have any.
#20
Great info guys, keep it comin.
Ok we where able to pull front tank, remove the sending unit and there's a yellow wire that's BARELY attached. The fuel as simply eatin away over the years. The other wires r fine, but the yellow one was dangling. I don't think it can't be sorter back together?
We did order a new one from advanced auto but its not the right one. Anyone know where to order the correct one for a 1983 model?
Ok we where able to pull front tank, remove the sending unit and there's a yellow wire that's BARELY attached. The fuel as simply eatin away over the years. The other wires r fine, but the yellow one was dangling. I don't think it can't be sorter back together?
We did order a new one from advanced auto but its not the right one. Anyone know where to order the correct one for a 1983 model?
#22
#26
#29
I did not, it didnt' look bad inside. But I have done it before, I used muriatic acid, can buy at pool supply. wear serious rubber gloves, breathing mask and goggles, and careful where you dump it. i.e. cement, it'll leach it white. You just pour it in, cap/cover the holes and slosh it around, you'd be amazed how fast it'll clean up rust. There are also shops that'll "boil it out" for you. I did it on a small tank for a mini-bike, but on a larger one might be worth the money not to hassle with it.
Red
Red
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