Opinions on diff lockers
Lockers = Good
LoL
Second of all...
"full time" locker, as you mentioned it, is not actually a locker by classification. what you're talking about is a spool. Spool = Bad
LoL
Third of all...
many are about to chime in steering you away from a locker to a limited slip. Just so everybody is on the same page, limited slip (posi) DOES NOT EQUAL locker.
Now with all that preface, when you said:
When you're on the gas, the unit locks. When you're off the gas, it unlocks. Sudden applications of power can make it a little clunky, so a manual transmission may amplify its tendency to pop around corners because the clutch generally takes power away and adds power in a much more direct way than an auto. The auto seems keeps power in the pinion shaft of the differential more constantly and can mask some of the locker's silly street habits. In the dirt, bar none, the Detroit Locker is stone reliable and offers real traction benefits without you doing more than putting your foot down.
The manually selectable lockers which use air or 12v to actuate are a different breed. Obviously, around town you'll be running them unlocked which lets them operate in standard, open differential mode. One wheel peel. One tire fire. Peg leg. etc etc
But you also get a vehicle that drives and corners without that bangin' and a popin' which the automatic lockers sometimes do in tight quarters. But when you flip that witch or push that button, you essentially have a full spool to give you traction, the same as the Detroit when you on the gas. The only downside to the selectable locker is it's cost and complexity of added compressors or wires.
Neither will let a tire ever stop spinning, even if you've ripped the tire and wheel completely off and you're scraping rocks with the brake rotor, the locker will always pull for you.
NOW, if you're driving a Super Duty, which I assume since you're on this forum, you have a Ford Sterling 10.5" rear axle that has very few lockers available for it. You're choices are either the Detroit Locker or the ARB Air Locker.
The front Dana 60 has many options available, including the Eaton E-Locker electric locking differential. Same principle as the ARB just different actuation.
If it were me, I'd do the E-Locker up front no question. There's only a handful of times when you need the extra traction, but when you do... you really do.
As for the rear, it's kind of a flip a coin. ARB or Detroit. Do you want to spend the extra cash and mess with the hassle of mounting air lines and a compressor? But do you want to have to worry about the clunking of the Detroit on the street?
Tell me more about what you want to do with your truck...
This might be hear-say. But this is the internet and you have the right to take everything you read with about 10 grains of salt so...
there's been some talk of the OX Locker having a few issues with cable adjustment. Since the unit is marketed as being simpler than wires or air lines in function, I thought I'd throw out there the rumor that the cable can be kind of finicky and the unit may have difficulty in locking/unlocking. Everything else on the ox looks bullet proof.
Now, I'm not dissing the OX. The wires on the E-Locker could get broken or short out; the air lines on the ARB could leak or the compressor might fail. All of this could potentially lead to a locker that wouldn't function when you need it to.
Personally, I'd rather deal with a broken wire. But that's just me. If I was out in the middle of nowhere and a stick ripped the wire to my locker, I probably could get it fixed a little easier with by twisting some wires and a few wraps of electrical tape. I think a leaky air line might be more difficult to fix but I have seen some cool tricks that involve cutting out the damaged portion of airline and splicing it back together with a section of a BIC ink pen.
If I were building a truck to take me to some very remote places without a lot of civilization along the way, I'd do a Detroit in the back because as long as there's oil in the diff and the ring and pinion can rotate, it'll probably function normally.
Like I said, if this is a dual-purpose truck that ever carries groceries or family, I'd lean a little more towards a selectable rear locker to compliment a selectable front locker. In the spirit of simplicity, this might open the door to ARB air lockers front and rear. Since that's the only option for the rear and you'd need a compressor and small tank to operate the rear locker, the front could be plumbed with minimal extra "stuff." You'd just have to swallow a $2500 pill but you'd have premium stuff and a dang-capable truck.
I'm just dreaming out loud with you.
Because I'd like to do the same with my '09 too
LoL
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Also i have never driven with a front locker, my front end binds/bucks even only turning 50% to stop alot of tight places i have to use clutch and coast turn or pop in 2wd. This is in snow/mud/grass meadow. Wouldnt locker make this even worse? Im planning on doing rear only that means 3/4 wheels turning should be pretty good
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thanks
tim
My opinion is if you do any work offroad or use your truck for pulling, farm work, plowing etc get a detroit you will be glad you did. Can hardly tell its back there..Lock right, up front works just fine. I can cruise anywhere in 4wd and the truck handles great.
Locked up since 1996 and wouldn't do it any other way. Had my share of useless LS'S
Dick
I go to some pretty rugged areas on the farms, getting firewood, hunting, etc. And this truck needs help! Thing is its my dd put a lot of miles on it on the highway and in town and around here the biggest problem in the winter is ICE. Any locker has to be selectable, and I want to do both F/R and I want onboard air anyhow so I think ARB its going to be. I just need more economic stimulus first...
For the rear, more your use and personal preference. Detroits and Lock Rites are simple and effective, but they are noisy, quirky, and will increase rear tire wear on the street. They can also be problematic on slippery (icy, muddy) and off camber side slopes. Since both tires will break traction at the same time, the rear of the truck will instantly start sliding down hill (sideways, and into that tree!) with no warning. If you have a selectable, you can leave it open in those situations so only one tire spins, allowing the other to prevent sideways sliding.
My preferance is for ME to be in control of when it locks.
It really boils down to which actuation method are YOU more comfortable fixing on the trail? Wires, compressor and air lines, or cables and linkages?









