Be careful with the flange bolts to the uppipes I broke one and after a new vice and taps and drill bits I had to buy a new flange 150$ roughly

 

I did forget to mention that when I did my repairs on my upipes, I also replaced the bolts up top with new ones. I used inset allen wrench head bolts instead of the orignal 5 point head bolts. It sure makes it easier to take out, and put back in as well.. Just some info for ya'll to think about when do'n these repairs.

 

Replacing the bolts is a good idea. Little 10mm head bolts for an exhaust (corrosive) application isn't good. I am into it for more than I thought, first bolt at the top of upppipe broke of course, so turbo is comimg off!
For the record, stock uppipes at my Ford dealer were 95.00, +28.00 for little donuts. I was lucky and got a "good buddy" 20% off, but all things considered going stock can be a little pricey also. There is a pretty bad groove worn in the drivers side pipe, so replacement is nec. The OEM pipes are pretty overpriced for what they are.
I have always questioned why stainless fastners aren't used for exhaust parts!!
More fun later today, not done yet.
Tom.

 

While I am contemplating my next assault, is this a good time to drill and tap (and plug for now) for an egt gauge?
I just looked at "riff raff's" site again (those pipes look a lot better today!), and he mentions a pre drilled option.
Thanks.
Tom.

 

You drill and tap the exhaust manifold, its easy - the up-pipes aren't in the way at all. I really obsessed about this task and went overboard to remove the shavings - now I realize this was not really necessary. Yes, we want to get the metal out, but a vacuum and magnetized bent nail are sufficient. Anything left in there is rapidly blown out at LOW VELOCITY as soon as engine cranks up....

 

Tap the exhaust manifold.

 

And yes your right, I forgot to mention that I did use stainless steel, Allen head Bolts when I did this. Also, while your down there, do the EGT probe in the Manifold. It's not that bad at all. Grease the drill bit, and the tap both, and it'll help to keep the shavings under control as well.

 

I have cursed ss hardware for one simple thing, when the threads gaud you can hang it up. So words of advice, no matter how messy neverseize is use it or you'll regret it. Also ss is softer and can't take the torque like carbor. So with ss the only advantage I have found is you can normally break the bolts off easier than trying to back them off. If you do use ss on your exaust I would recommend some high temp neverseize and I'm not sure if it would even hold up but it would be better than nothing!

 

Anti-seize is messy. While I hate the mess it makes, and most times I can get away without using it, I have learned that the mess that the bolt makes when it gets stuck is way, way, way messier.

I had a lug bolt break off. Oh, what a joy. It would have been easier if it was a stud but no, it had to be a bolt. All my bolts get a good dose of it today. Any time the rotors or wheels come off, the mating surfaces that tend to get stuck get whacked with the goop. I pounded and pounded but it wouldn't come off. I had to take it to Sears who put it on a hoist and levered it with a huge crow bar. I drove around and around, braking the vehicle with the bolts loose but no luck.

 

Stainless hardware isn't a good idea for exhaust. Maybe a clamp or something but not for the rest. So now that you see its a big PITA isn't it worth it to go with the bellowed pipes and not have to do it again?

 

No doubt, but the budget isn't there right now. At least I will know what it takes, and there will be new bolts and nuts AND never sieze next time. Still won't look forward to it, but it will be ok for a while.

Tom.

 

[quote=aklim;10025701]Anti-seize is messy. While I hate the mess it makes, and most times I can get away without using it, I have learned that the mess that the bolt makes when it gets stuck is way, way, way messier. X2
X2 on this.

 

I guess I might as well add last thoughts. After having to replace the exhaust inlet manifold, up pipes, o-rings for turbo stuff, and I added cost of new bolts, real close to 350.00 and some change. Without good buddy discount, over 400 easy.
This morning I looked at Guzzle's site, 438.00 for above, and better stuff to boot. Boy, trying to save money just doesn't work sometimes!!
Either way though, not a fun job. At least it is done, for a while.

 

Guzzle is the man for sure. But Clay has em for almost $20 less: Riffraff Diesel: IH Bellowed Up-pipe Kit

Either way, you can't go wrong with those guys

 

You know, I have discovered, in my life at least, that the cheapest way to do something is to do it right the FIRST time so you don't have to do it again. Every time or just about every time I tried to skimp on something and went the cheaper route, I ended up kicking myself in the ***. Someday, I hope to be rich enough to avoid that and pay someone to kick me in the ***. Oh wait, never mind. There is already a line formed for that purpose.

Usually when I buy the cheaper stuff, it breaks faster and I have to do it again. IF it works, I outgrow it so fast that I have to buy the better one now. Would have been cheaper to buy the good one the first time and grow into it as opposed to buying the cheap one and grow out of it much too soon.