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Measuring alternator amperage???

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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #16  
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Lights dim when going up and not as bad side to side but still do it. Motor is in good shape. Plow is very well taken care of. My symtoms are nothing new just wanting to explore the cause and cure.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #17  
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How about a picture of your rig with the plow.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Kajtek1
Don't the "clamp around the cable" ammeters work with AC only? I am not electrician, but that is what I was told.
Dimming lights when the plow lifting would indicate poor cable connections to the battery. There is no way an alternator can keep up with such demand and that what battery is for.
I do have 1HP electric motor for my dump bed and I think 2 HP on my winch I hardly see voltage drop when I push the switch. Good cables make the trick.
My engine analyzer has cable clamp style that I use to test alternators at work and it works great.
What I do is turn everything on, headlights, wipers, AC, rear defrost, etc.
Then I connect the lead to the alternator charge cable.
Then I take a load tester that has two heater elements inside that really put a load on the battery.
Raise engine rpm to nearly redline and hit the switch on the load tester.
When I do that a 90 amp alternator in good shape will usually read 110-120 amps for the short time that the switch is closed on the load tester.
.
And to the OP who has the dimming lights: putting a high output alternator won't fix your dimming light problem.
What you need to do is make sure your cables and batteries are in good shape.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
What you need to do is make sure your cables and batteries are in good shape.
Not just in good condition but also the proper size. I'm not an electrician or electrical expert. Over the years I have learned that the proper sized wire can make the difference. Your wiring may be too small to handle the current needed to make the plow motor work no matter how good your batteries and alternator are working.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 12:41 PM
  #20  
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I lied, it's a Fluke 337 tha tI have that does RMS and AVG Dc Amps, including In-Rush.

That being said, Dan is right.

Also, the lead form the alternator to the battery would need to be at least a 1/0 to handle a continuous 120 amp load. Just FYI. Amps are amps and the wires are only designed to carry X amount of load for Y amount of time.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #21  
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I am thinking that the cable for the plow motor is sized too small for it's length.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 01:09 PM
  #22  
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I'm using the factory harnesses that came with the plow. I do like the idea of up sizing the wire from the alternator. Maybe that might be my next move. All the connections are clean though and I clean them every season and coat with dielectric grease.

Nick here's a pic... I'll try to remember to take one with the wiring harnesses next time it's hooked up...
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 01:13 PM
  #23  
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Here the factory set up....

 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 05:46 PM
  #24  
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sweet set up
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by F-250 Super Duty
Lucky for me friend had an amp meter. Truck running with glow plugs on drew about 46 amps. When the plow was lifting the amp draw was 72 at the altenantor wire. At the plow motor it was 134 amps on lift. Took off all the connections and cleaned them with the same results. Truck running looks like the altenantor was putting out 22 amps continiously.....

Now when the plow would lift the battery voltage would drop from 14.8 volts to 13.0...
Haven read the hole thing but it sounds to me the plow motor has a problem. Winding, something. For the amps to be that high, check the manufacture rating on your plow then recheck. Also DPtuner can raise idle speed alittle on that tune for the extra load but the battery has to be good for amperage.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:21 PM
  #26  
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I'm not familiar with snow plow but it looks like there is a starter motor driving a hydraulic pump inside a reservoir.

Could there be a hydraulic pressure relief valve that is set to high or possibly a restriction in the hydraulic system that would cause an overload on the motor?
Is there a filter located anywhere?

Just a thought.

I think my Fluke is a 300???. AC/DC volt and amp readings and an ohm meter.
Haven't used my Fluke 77 since I got it last December. Cost = $312
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #27  
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Another Thought...

I've seen hydraulic hoses that looked normal on the outside but the inside has swelled inward and or collapsed in a way that it totally restricted oil.

How is the "speed" for the blade movement??

Good Luck
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 03:05 AM
  #28  
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Hi, i had a meter that you put over your battery cable and it would indicate amperage,have
not seen one in years ,but it was like a amp. gauge and had a +or -,mine went to 60amp's.
I bought mine at a auto parts store.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 07:32 PM
  #29  
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I purchased one of those at NAPA for $18 bucks before I bought my Fluke. It worked okay but you could not get it to close to the alternator when the truck was running.

The interference or magnetic field created by the alternator would give you bad readings.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 08:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by harris2108
Another Thought...

I've seen hydraulic hoses that looked normal on the outside but the inside has swelled inward and or collapsed in a way that it totally restricted oil.

How is the "speed" for the blade movement??

Good Luck
Not sure on the hoses, but they are like six years old and are on the list for replacement. Speed of blade is fine though.
 
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