THIS PROBLEM IS GETTING WORSE. I START THE TRUCK BUT THE MOTOR KEEPS TURNING BUT WONT START. IT SEEMS SHE AINT GETTING GAS. THIS HAPPENS AFTER THE TRUCK HAS BEEN PARKED.I THOUGHT I PROBABLY DID'NT TIGHTEN UP THE MANIFOLD GOOD ENOUGH AND SHES TAKING IN COLD AIR . I NEED HELP PLEASE I AM AN OLD RHODESIAN AND THE COMPUTERIZED STUFF JUST CONFUSES ME .SOMEONE ANYONE I POSTED THE SAME MESSAGE AND NO RESPONSE SO I JUST TRIED AGAIN ANYWAY.

 

When you turn on the key does the fuel pump kick in ?? Turn the key to the on position you should hear the fuel pump. If so do you have spark ??

 

My dad had the same problem with his 90 F150. The EFI needs about 29 psi to opperate. Try turning your key to the on posisition (don't turn the engine over) you should hear the fuel pump cycle for a few seconds. Do this about 5 times then try starting it. If that works it's the fuel pump. It might not be it but it dosen't hurt to try.

Scott.

 

i haven't tried listening for the fuel pump,i will check on it and tell u the results and do you think that air being sucked in throuhg the exhaust mani could cause this,i pulled out the trick flow headers and put back the stoc mani?

 

ok i tried to listen for the pump to kick in and i didn't get any sound but the truck started up just fine after doing the listen test

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jan-03 AT 01:37 AM (EST)]It could be any number of problems, fuel pump, relay among other things. This is a recent experience I had though. My Dad's 89 Mustang LX 5.0, about a year ago, began doing something similar. You could drive it and then shut it off and it wouldn't crank back up. Fuel pump wasn't coming on or anything. It didn't happen all the time, but once every couple weeks or so. The first thing I replaced was the relay. Two weeks later the problem returned. You could move wires under the hood and it might switch on, it might not. About a month ago it started happening with increased frequency, like every time it was driven, and even began shutting off when driving sometimes. For some reason moving the wire at the TFI module would sometimes switch it back on. I figured the problem might be there.

By this time I was getting tired of going and retrieving the car so I was just about to remove the distributor when I heard the pump come on when the harness was disconnected. So the distributor was probably not the problem, but rather something in the harness. As a last ditch effort, I saw what appeared to be the main EEC power wire going to the solenoid. The solenoid had other wires hooked up to it that were not originally there, the car was a 4 cylinder car that had been converted by the previous owner. I took the wire off and cleaned it and relocated it in the cluster of other wires to see if maybe it didn't have a good contact. Guess what... the car hasn't had any problems in the past two weeks. I don't know for sure that it was the problem, but it's working now. On an interesting note, the problem dates back about a year, and I believe the solenoid was replaced about then :-X23


2001 Bullitt Mustang
1995 Ford F150 302 5 speed
88 LX, down right now
87 LX, down right now

 

which solenoid do you mean ?the starter motor solenoid?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jan-03 AT 04:45 AM (EST)]Yeah, on the fender near the battery, if it's like my 95. I don't want to say that's your problem, I'm not even sure where the EEC power comes from on a truck. All I'm saying is I tried to track something down for a year and it may have been staring me in the face Maybe check to see if an injector is firing while you are cranking. You could probably do that with a second set of hands and a voltmeter. Just pull one of the injector plugs and put a meter or test light on it. If it's firing, it's probably not a computer power problem. One less thing to look for. If you have power there, check for power at the pump with the key on. If you have power there, it's probably just the pump. But don't change it until you look at the obvious first

Basically we know your truck isn't starting because the fuel pump isn't coming on. We just have to find out why it isn't coming on

2001 Bullitt Mustang
1995 Ford F150 302 5 speed
88 LX, down right now
87 LX, down right now

 

ok ,i am ready to initiate KOEO test and i need to know if my volt meter should be set to ohms ,a.c or d.c and when the codes flash up should i record the number the needle points at ?i haven't done this b4 ,but i am sure that with all of your guys help we will prevail. thanx will post results.

 

Only 2 things are needed for a gas engine to run, fuel ans spark. If you have both it will fire, may not run well but it will fire. I usually try loosing the fuel line to determine whether I am getting fuel, it should leak, maybe not enough fuel. Check to see if you got spark, it should jump at least a half inch. Pull off a plug wire and hold over a non-painted bolt, spark? You asked about manifolds. A leak in the intake manifold can make it hard to start/idle, but the engine should run fine at higher rpms. A leak in the exhaust is not the problem, it would only cause noise. Good luck.

 

OK whatcha using for an OXYDIZER???? Fire triangle requires 3 items for fire / explosion / combustion.

FUEL........(in this case gasoline)

AIR (found abundantly in the atmosphere 78% Nitrogen, 20.8% Oxygen and 1.2% other gases)

AND an IGNITION SOURCE (Electric spark!)


Take away or RESTRICT ANY one of the required elements and you have NO FIRE or a very poor example of one!


Forddytube's problem is lack of fuel or poor delivery. Once he figures out whats causing it and fixes same he'll be fine. It could be myriad number of things.

First I would check is EVERY CONNECTION (+ & -) from the fuel pump all the way back thru the relay to the battery. A corroded terminal can cause symptoms like this and is CHEAP although time consuming. Once he determines that he's getting full voltage and all grounds are CLEAN then he can start troubleshooting the relays/fuel pump(s), etc. FORDS have a notorious habit of corroding on harness plugs/terminals, so you need to make sure all terminals are as clean as you can get them.

A 2" square of emory cloth works wonders and is fairly cheap. DON'T use sandpaper as it leaves a gritty residue.

Larry

 

well guys thank you for all the help , she's well again. 2 days ago i pulled koeo codes 334 and someone told me it was the EGR valve and that it needed cleaning , well i did that this morning and i don't get any codes and she starts up just like new. i also found that the pipe from the intake mani down to the exhaust mani was broken in 2 right where the spirel is, the pipe i mean is the one the EGR is sitting on.

i only faced one big problem. when i replaced the EGR valve i somehow threaded one of the bolt holes .
SO, i wana thak all of you for steppin up and sharing your advice.