Hello all,

I'm looking to purchase a late 80's early 90's F250, full size bed, ext cab preferred as a 3rd vehicle for gathering firewood and moving stuff. Since I'll be driving it throughout the winter here in Colorado and up in the mountains to gather firewood, it has to be a 4x4.

That said, what engine is the most reliable? I would prefer a manual tranny but which drive train is the most reliable? Manual or auto?

What else should I look for as far as common problems go? I'm not at all concerned with body rust or cosmetic problems, just mechanical.

Thanks in advance,
J

 

Engine:
If your not towing super heavy stuff I highly recommend the 300 I6. Known for it's superior quality, longevity, and low end torque. If they have been taken care of you can go to 300K+ before any major engine problems. Ol' Red went to 358K before I had to swap for another 300 I6. The 87-91 300 I6's had the most power in stock form. Plus the 300 I6 gets the best mpgs! The 302's are ok but better suited as a car engine. If you want more power go for a 351w 5.8L. The 460's are gas pigs and get 4-8mpgs and you really don't need that much power. If you like diesel the 6.9 and 7.3 diesels are pretty good and run a hell of a long time but I can't comment on them since I don't own one. Plus you might have problems starting in cold weather (their diesels... It just happens sometimes). The 6.9 and 7.3 diesels also get decent mpgs that helps offset the higher cost of diesel over gas.

Tranny:
I would stay with with the 5spd ZF manual tranny b/c it's the prefered HD transmisson. If auto... I would not get a AOD (4spd auto) or E40D (4spd auto). The C6 (3spd auto) is bullet proof and has been used in drag cars for a long time now... They take a beating and keep going. here are the C6 and ZF so you can look under to make sure you have one of the good tranny's. I remember them by the cross hatching (ZF) and the "Peace" looking sign(c6).



Overall the 300 I6 and ZF or C6 combo is the most reliable. If anyone wants to debate that they can ask Ford or USPS why there is still a MI plant open that makes just 300 I6 parts for the USPS trucks... Welcome to FTE! Oh and if you look below... "Thumper" is my wood hauler. I fill the bed and pull a full trailer! It's a little slow going sometimes but she works great and starts every time! I get 5+ cords of hardwood a year...

PS: If you need a good recomendation on a chainsaw I have a few that won't cost an arm and a leg...

 

P.S.S. You might want to pick up these 2 items if your getting an old truck...

PB to get things unstuck.
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...bpenetrant.jpg

Antisieze to keep them unstuck.

 

Nstueve,

Thanks a lot man. That is EXACTLY the kind of info I'm looking for. Your not the first person I've heard recommend that 300I6 so I'm going to keep my eyes open for one of those and the recommended trans you posted below. I appreciate the pics!

As far as wood goes, I'm burning around 5+ cords too, fortunately I get most delivered from tree services for free (they avoid dump fees) but I still have to c/s/s all of it. But I still like to gather via Craigslist free ads and National Forest. I've got a 026 Pro, great little saw IMO and just recently got one of the Makita (Dolmar) 6401s for $140 from a local pawn shop. Now that saw is a beast!

Thanks again,
J

 

If i could have found a F250 with the 300 and a 5 speed, that is what I would have bought! awesome truck!

 

Just don't get a 1/2 ton... The F150's just don't have the hauling capacity in their suspension. I also have a makita 6401... Got it off craigslist for $70... A older guy bought it 3-4 years ago and only used it once. He couldn't get it started so sold it to me for $70!!!!! I spent the cash I saved on a 7900 cylinder conversion kit and the HD-Commercial filter kit... You think yours is a beast... Try adding the extra cc's and adding a 32in bar! Oh buddy does it like to eat wood!

The Northern Tool $20 box fits it good with a little heat gun reshaping...

As far as the truck goes. Download Firefox if you don't have it... Here... Mozilla | Firefox web browser & Thunderbird email client

Then go to crazedlist.org : search craigslist like a madman and make the change in your firefox web browser... You'll be able to search all craigslist postings at once... IE all of Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, New Mexico and Kansas all in one shot. I usually limit the price and search for "F250" you'll find plenty...

FYI: 300 5spds are hard to find in the F250 line. You can buy a 302 or 351 5spd and have a pretty easy swap back to a 300 I6. That's why I have 5 trucks... Swap parts back and fourth and to steal a piece or two when I need to fix something. Too bad you aren't closer... There is a 88 F250 351w 4x4 5spd for $800 in decent shape. Just needs a little wrench work and ECU. I might go buy it myself... Here are a couple I would look at in your area... Looks like most are 460's or don't tell you what engine...

1983 F250 4x4 truck

$2500 is a little steep but...
89 Ford F250 4X4 $2500 OBO

1994 Ford F250

89 F250 EXT CAB 4X4

 

Lol, great minds think alike I guess...I ordered a 7900 P&C kit (with metal gasket) last week as well as the HD air kit (and a new bar and chain)..heck, even got the black cylinder cover to match! It should all be here this week. 140 was a great price but $70 bucks was a steal man!! Good job man! Thats such an underated saw.

Back on topic here...I've been digging through CL for the past few weeks or so searching by f250 with max of 2500. Top end of my budget is 2000. Thanks for the note about F150s because I've been considering those too but was worried about them handling the load...especially a load full of green logs. I'll scratch those off the list now. Thanks for the crazed list tip, I'll check that out.

J

 

You;ll probably kill me but this is what the saw looked like when i got it... Fresh carb kit and 2 pulls and it was running like a dream! It felt like a ton after just using a cheap $100 poulan for so long but it was definatly worth the tiny amount I have in it!!!!!!!!!!!



I had to look really close to even notice it had been used...

PS you're gonna need to P&P that saw to actually get the extra power the saw is capable of.

As for the truck... There seems to be tons of 460 7.5's on the market out by you... If you look around you can find a 80-86 I6 but it will be carbed with a 4spd. The 4spd is a T17...T18...???? Either way it's a good tranny and can take the abuse of wood hauling. The little single barrel carb can be replaced with a small 390cfm and a offenhauser intake to ramp up the power. I'm not a big carb fan but if you know carbs the 80-86 range might be the way to go. There were alot more of the 80-86 made with the 300 I6 it seems like. If you find a cheap 351w in the 95-97 range... I wouldn't be afraid to get it. They are MAF and you can add extra power goodies easy.

 

In my area all the f250's for sale are plow trucks or they are diesels that cost a ton more. I got a 91' f250 half a year ago for 1k with full plow setup and plow. I figured the truck is worth $500 and the plow worth $500 if i wanted to get rid of it. The bed is also rust free (go figure...) But other than that it has lots of rust. 351w 5speed. The engine has no problems what so ever though it has been worked hard. The oil pan just developed a leak but that can be fixed. Just watch for rust as these trucks have been usually worked hard and not usually washed. It has 160k miles btw.

 

If it runs good, has 4x4 and doesn't need to much off the git-go i usually say $1500... All of my trucks are $100-$400 farm trucks that needed a TON of work. $2000 should be a good budget... I recommend keeping $300-$500 in reserve for any problems you run into... leaving a budget of $1500-$1700. But I don't know the truck market in Colo...

 

That saw is like brand spankin' new...again, nice job on that. Thats one of those once in a life time deals! I'm tempted to run mine until I HAVE to change the P&C. It runs so well as is that I may just leave it alone except swap the air filter kit. Do you think I'll really need to p&p the new cylinder when I swap it? Will that that really make a noticable difference with a chainsaw? Lots of debate on Arboristsite about p&p...of course, what isnt a debate on Arboristsite

Yeah, I'm not having too much luck finding a F250 with the 300I6...I did find this earlier though: 89 FORD F250
89' F250, 351,4x4, looks good. $2000.

Whats a good realistic market price for these (how much should I actually expect to pay)? Like the one I posted above? I would love to not spend more than 1500, especially in light of the recent 300 bucks worth of 6401 upgrades NEVERMIND - Just saw your post above.

 

Nstueve - One other question, the above truck has the 5spd manual which I believe is a Mazda M5OD tranny from 87-91? How is that transmission supposed to be?

 

1.) The same principles apply to a small 2 stroke as a big truck engine... For more power add more compression and more fuel/air. After adding more fuel/air you'll need to get it out of the cylinder faster once spent. This is why some guys are doing muffler and P&P work. IE the 351w you are looking at. The two choke points are the exhaust, heads and cam. Relate back to saw... choke points are rough and small intake and a choked up muffler. Keep in mind doing the muffler and P&P on the saw will make it into the "Dragstrip" version. You probably have enough power as is and can leave the P&P work alone for now if you're not putting the cylinder kit on. FYI... I put mine on for more power now and will put the old one back on once the 7900 C&P are shot... I'm also cutting 24-40in oaks and walnuts for all my wood. If you just got that 6401 I would get used to using it for a season or two before adding all the "Go fast goodies."

2.) The truck above looks pretty good for $2000. I would go and test drive it. Then find $500 worth of stuff you'd like to have fixed. Explain to the owner you have only $2000 to be spent total. Then meet in the middle on $1700-$1800. If you need places to look... Check the drag link, tie rod ends, and front end suspension bushings. Every old ford I have bought needed their rubber suspension bushings replaced... and when you love MOOG bushings like I do it gets expensive. Also the end links on the sway bars can be expensive. Do both gas tanks work? if a fuel pump needs replaced that can cost over $100 easy... Plus the added work of pulling the bed (my personal favorite) or droping the tank (hate doing it!). Brake pads can be $100 easy... and so on and so on... I'm sure for $2000 the truck isn't perfect and the owner knows it... Plus if you have cash in hand and are actually willing to walk away, (which you should be since there are 100,000 of these trucks out there for sale) then the owner should be more plyable on the price. Trucks that have been on CL for more than 2-4 weeks usually makes the owner more agreeable on a price drop, but then again the good ones get weeded out sooner. Make sure to check the compression in all cylinders! High milage 351w's won't last as long as high milage 300's.

3.) as far as realistic market place... $1000 for a rough shape 4x4 that still runs down the road and 4x4 works. $2000 for a good shape 4x4 with most of the mechanicles working. It also depends on the truck, it's options, tires, which mechanicles are broke... I've paid less than $500 for all of mine but they have had a tranny out, excessive blowby, blown motor, 4x4 not working, no title, etc... If that truck runs, guages work, compression is good, and chasis mechanicles are in good shape... I really wouldn't be afraid of $2000... There are sooooooo many old farm trucks around me in Iowa it really drives the price down... Keep in mind if you don't look it over good it will nickle and dime you if the owner hasn't taken care of it... Which is what happens around here... They get passed to 4-5 different owners for short milage beatings b4 they get to me.

4.) The tranny... UGh... the M50D... It's ok for medium light duty use and would be ok for a good long while i guess... Keep in mind the serious ford guys replace their broke M50D's with ZF's... And guys looking to get the truck back on the road cheap will put a M50D back in... The truck should have origionally come with a 5spd ZF since it's a F250. I'd want the ZF because it can handle more power...

 

This is all fantastic advise. They should make this a sticky. I'll be getting my tax refund very soon and will proceed to go shopping with cash in hand. Thanks much for all the info, I'll keep ya posted on the progress.

~Jutt

 

before buying the new truck.you may want to come on ever here and have a look around;
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

there are two F250 trucks.
a light duty and a heavy duty.
depending on what your doing,you may want to pay attention to which one you get.


iv always wanted to try out a Dolmar.