Personally I've never understood replacing used parts after removed even if they appear to be good still. That's just me however.........

Best to stick with the Motorcraft brand and specifically the model spec'd for your engine. I've read MC has a different thread profile that naturally matches the head whereas other brands use probably a standard thread or one that's different from Ford/Motorcraft. Additionally the MC plugs are designed specifically for your engine while other brands probably don't have the same research and trials.

Anti-seize is essentially a lubricant for the threaded portion, somewhat advisable since the heads are aluminum and plugs steel. Left too long there can be significant problems removing plugs which is well documented here in various threads and posts. At no time should anti-seize be put onto the electrodes, should only go on the actual threads of the plug.

 

My questions is/was: Does Motorcraft offer a 1-piece replacement plug or are they still offering the same PZT 14F plug that that was originally in the truck? Are the new plugs nickle plated or do I need to put Permatex on the threads and shield (not the ground strap) according to TSB 08-7-6 (http://www.phila.gov/fleet/Warranty%...-06%20FORD.pdf)

Thanks

 

I had Dave at blownoutsparkplug.com replace mine tonight.He was fast, efficient and knowledgable. You could tell he knew what he was doing. He said all of my holes looked fine (thats what she said lol) and those were the original plugs. Glad i had him do them as its one less thing to worry about.

 

She sure is a talkative one---of course that's a whole other thread, whole other site too!

CC what was the final bill if you don't mind me asking? They do seem to be knowledgeable about this one thing which is great IMHO!

 

It was $350 for the preventative plug change which includes plugs and labor. I could have done it. I have built several small blocks, a couple big blocks but i don't know anything about the modulars. Plus, I didn't have a small torque wrench, bore scope for checking down in the cylinders at the threads, OBDII diagnostic tool or more importantly the experience. The man makes it look very easy because he had the right tools and experience.

 

Did he say whether you had the 4 thread heads or the 8 thread heads?

My 03 still had the cheep azz 4 thread heads on it from the factory.

 

I asked him that and he said 4 thread. My engine was built 8/24/2002 and they started doing 8 threads in november of 02' so yeah a couple of months difference. I was disappointed too but he said in the 13 years he has been specifically replacing blown out plugs on these ford engines he has never had one come out after he swapped them or repaired a plug hole. Plus he said that i should replace them at 60k miles instead of 100k. The worst offenders according to him are the expeditions.

 

guys i had a spark plug blow, second plug back on the drivers side. i used a kit from NAPA but now the truck is idling rough.

What are all the kits available to use to fix this?

 

A Time Sert kit is the best way.
Most of the others are just helicoils and they come out sometimes.

 

Phil,

That is what I've heard, the timesert is the best... but I didn't know that a few weeks ago when I put the NAPA kit in. Can I still use the timesert kit?

 

Yes,
but you will have to get the other insert out of the head before you start the Time Sert procedure.

 

Call blownoutsparkplug.com He will fix it and it will last.

 

i got a call from my buddy today with a 98 expy also...he blew #2 plug. i had him back on the road in a few hours.

 

Nothing but opinion and experience here---forgive me if I get something wrong..............

Motorcraft plugs as spec'd and supplied new aren't the typcially the problem associated with all the blown plug issues---it seems to center around two things: over tightening them during installation/replacement OR too long between changing intervals. Despite claims plugs in modular motors will go 100K its still best to change them probably at 50K. The dissimilar metal contact aluminum > steel tends to seize them into the heads. This alone is probably why so many experince broken plugs with portions remaining in the threaded holes.

For me even though the newer Motorcraft plugs have the nickel coating I'll still use a light coating of nickel-based anti-seize and run the torque up to about 21 foot pounds. Even though my E250 5.4 V-8 plug changes are an absolute chore they'll get replaced at 50K regardless how well they seem to be doing. About 4 hours and $30 later I have peace of mind knowing this shouldn't be an issue in the near future.

I'll add Motorcraft plugs are rumored to have a different thread profile which other aftermarket plugs don't adopt regardless their brand name. If this is true then it could also contribute to plug blow outs and just one more reason to stay with Motorcraft!!

Hope this helps even a little!

 

Wow,,this is getting confusing.

He has an 07. Different plug problem all together.
The 3V gets stuck in the head.
The 2V blow out.