clean fuel going through the ip to injectors (solenoid valve has voltage to it), starter spins over engine strongly (good battery cables made from welding lead) and lot of compression (replaced gp's and spun engine some really pushes air out)
did give it a breif shot of ether - seemed like it wanted to fire but didn't - I didn't push it with the ether.
not even a backfire - what gives?? can the engine be out of time somehow?? if it was a gas engine that's what I would think, a jumped timing chain??
I've tinkered with this thing off-on for about 10 days - still no luck.
any tips or ideas?

 

There is no timing chain but if you have eliminated all other issues, it could be off a tooth or two on the timing gear.

 

whats the rundown on your truck Tom? year,engine,history, etc.

 

'86 6.9L, has had engine replaced (jasper) K's of miles back.
comeing home in ice storm 2 weeks back I ran low on fuel but got home with about a qt in rear tank. parked it knowing it was due for some work and it hasn't lit off since.
replaced factory water seperator with an aftermarket with visible bowl, added a boost electric pump but just for starting I kept the mechanical
replaced fuel filter - contained water and crud of course. installed clear return line to fuel filter head to be sure air was being purged.
replaced ign switch with a dash mounted, the column mounted was shot. the ip solenoid is getting fire, sure of that.
installed manual gp push-activated momentary switch. and motorcraft gps.
plenty of clean fuel getting to injectors, I had gp's out and spun engine over until fuel came out a cracked-open injector cap line. seems lots of compression and once the fuel sprayed in a mist was blown out gp hole.
I gave it a second or 2 of ether and it seemed the engine sped up trying to hit but no go (didn't hit gp switch with ether and was about 50d F today) I've got the air filter/breather off if it makes any diff, to get to the gp's.
if it was gas I'd say it had maybe jumped timeing chain or maybe distributor gearing.
?? got me stumped for sure.
I had an earlier post asking for wireing help which got me straigtened out, the Chilton's manual I ordered is about useless despite saying it 'covers diesel models'.
it had been running fine once rolling. plenty of power and good oil pressure, no over heating.
the fast idle switch isn't working. not sure but think the cold advance is. it should hit though if both are kaput even.

 

i would say geeled up fuel

 

the speed/throttle actuator switch?????? mine went bad on mine and was blowing a fuse and my truck did all the same stuff. is ur wts light coming on?

 

where is the 'speed/throttle actuator switch frodfreak?
any way you can post foto of?
you may be onto something, I feel it's something minor probably right under my nose.

 

I did pull all the cruise control out - could this be the cause?
if so what do I need to check to get current to or ground a part or what?
doing a search brought up some info from as far back as '07 now if I can find what I need to re-energize or re-vacum this may be what I need.

 

evidently I'm on the right track with the cruise control removal - now if I can figure out what to straight wire.
I can't figure out how this could disable a diesel engine. I thought if it had fuel, compression and air it would run? how can this disable the engine?

 

Did you try to jumper your cold advance and your fast idle solenoids, should not matter about your cruise control if you jumper them, and it looks to me like you covered all the other important bases, ur right if you got fuel misting out the GP holes it should start. Have you done all the other things that make a diesel easier to start? engine block heater, glow plugs working for sure? hair dryer blowing down the intake? W-D 40 sprayed in intake?

I am just thinking out loud...

 

I'm gonna give all that a look john but as of now it seems/acts like a gas engine w/out adaquate ground
as I said it's a 6.9, straight 4 - s or jumped time badly
I disconnected the cruise control which likely has some bearing here.

 

Try electric heaters at fuel lines/tanks, torpedo would work too be careful, just thinkin again

 

what about power to the fuel shut of solenoid Tom?
cold advance and high idle will help,but power to the FSS is a must.
and how much fuel did you add to the tank?
fuel is used to lube the ip,and keep it cool along with the injectors,so running out of fuel isn't a good idea in general if you can try avoiding in the future.but when you run out of fuel,that's kinda the least of your worries at such times.we've all been there,done that.
did you try a fuel pressure/flow test at the valve? and or know for sure, fuel spray's right out of the valve good when the e-pump is running?
picking up crap from the bottom of and old rusted tank can't be good in general either.

 

yeah 250 there is plenty fuel in the tanks, rear is full and switch is on 'rear'. front has about 3 gals.
the fuel shut-off solenoid is energized, goes 'click and sparks when re-connected with switch on.
yeah I ran front tank dry about 3 miles from home (was reading about 1/8 tank) and went to rear which got me home with about a quart left in tank so the fuel filter had plenty of crud in it and I had to replace the factory water seperator with an aftermarket that has a visible 'bowl'.
I'm thinking maybe disconnecting the cruise control has something to do with this but can't pin it down, have found some info when I did a 'search' from as far back as '07 posts/threads I need to go over.
is there a 'valve' to check the fuel solenoid? it sure looks to me that the injectors are getting fuel?
any tips/suggestions appreciated.

 

If you are getting fuel to the injectors, the fuel shut off solenoid has to be open.

That also eliminates a tank pick up tube cracked or the tank selector valve not working.

Are you sure the liquid out of the injectors is fuel?

Have you checked to make sure the glow plugs are getting power?

You are correct, fuel, air are all you need.
Power to the fuel shut off is the only electric needed to make the engine able to run.


With a manual tranny, instead of cranking on the starter I would pull start it if at all possible where you are located.