Just wanted to say thanks Racer...and others. Tuned and new PCV and Idle controller...IAC? 14.2MPG. Thanks guys!

 

Welcome to the forum SantaAna12

 

Thanks Racer. Back again though......the whistle that stopped when I replaced my IAC is back, and my idle is a bit rougher now. It sounds just like before replacement. It is a Motorcraft part. Is it possible that dirt migrated into the new part? Another thread I read talked about IAC reset? Any ideas before I remove and clean? Note: whistle starts just above idle, and take off can be prone to lunging like before, but not as pronounced.

 

anyone home?

 

1997 F-150 4.6L 4X4 148K miles....Just bought new Accel wires (5137B). Second time changing plugs and wires. There were 10 wires in the set. Why? Am I not seeing something that's hidden? Thanks for the help. BTW, I have no COP, just 2 coils, one on either side in front of engine.

 

I've yet to change my plugs on my 2000, 5.4 V8. Let me clarify - I was going to do this awhile back, but ran into time constraints before I really got started. I took a couple of plugs out, just to check them (I was not original owner of truck), and could see they were not the original plugs (they were Bosch). I just left them in then, as the truck was running fine, and I figured someone had already changed them once.

I'm now at 190000kms (here in Canada), and I've got some Motorcraft plugs ready to go.

Is the consensus, that I should probably replace the coil boots, while I'm doing this? I believe my coils are fine (original), but I'm guessing the boots probably have seen their age.

My understanding, is that we *don't* use anti-seize on the plug threads, and we torque to 28, right?

 

Finally did mine yesterday. Autolite APP103 double plats, 4 hours, the usual problem at #7 getting to the COP bolt. The old ones had 103,000 miles, and the gap on them was at 0.060 to 0.064. Not too bad, but I'll be happy not to tackle this again for about 10 years.

I printed out Racerguy's notes way back when and stuffed them in my Chilton's manual. This thread was only 3 pages then.

 

Just started changing the plugs out of my 2003 SCrew 4.6L. Picture below are #1 thru #4. #2 was barely hand tight, and looks like it was getting hotter than the rest, maybe some exhaust leakage? Not my idea of fun... blind re-install on #4 had me holding my breath. Will be tackling driver's side later in the week.

 

...You'll do fine...just take your time. I used a few swivels and short extensions combinations and it worked.

 

hey i'm new to the forum,1st post. my van has been running good for the past year i've owned it. all of a sudden it starts to miss.i was 200 miles from home getting a IHC travellal to take home to part out. i got home an took it to advance auto parts to have them test my motor to see which cylinder was mis-firing. everytime they hooked up the " OCD " hand held tester,it would shut off the tester. after 3 other parts store stops, 2 at advance, & 2 at o'reilly's.no body could get it to come up with a code. so this will be my 1st time getting into a 5.4 triton motor. this van has 164,000 miles on it and is a dream to drive and tow with.i checked the wires going to the hand held tester plug in,and they all looked good,but were loose in the connector thats screwed just under the dash part under steering column. i've been doing some reading,an it looks like the easiest way to perform this check is to,unhook each COP 1 at a time to find the " BAD 1 "... TIA for any help or info---jeff

 

Jeff, with many miles you should also check to see if one of the injectors is going bad , check the fuel pump and fuel filter too.... good luck

 

Check for blown fuse#23-20amp in I/P fuse panel. The data link connector also shares the same fuse for the cigar lighter.

 

thanks alot,been wondering about that cigarette lighter,will check it out...jeff

 

thanks alot Lime1GT,that was it.# 23 fuse was blown,oreilly's hooked up their tester an it said # 6 cyl., mis-firing---Circuit G ground,primary. so now,i'm gonna get a can of sea-foem an dump in the gas,drive a few days., ( will spray kroil around the spark plug base,( kinda hard to see,but will spray enuff to hopefully get it ) wet..then pull the doghouse off again,an change out the plug 1st.then if i have to,i'll change coil. i can get the coil " COP " at rock auto for $15,$3.95 for boot,unless you think they are not good enuff. parts store wants $41,w/boot...thx-jeff "98-econoline van,5.4-- can get right to most of them thru inside of van,other 1/2 thru front under the hood. jeff

 

Good for you. I would recommend changing a plug boot with each plug if the boot is old. They deform after years of heat and probably will not seal the plug to boot or plug hole to boot off well from water. Also smear a dab of dielectric grease just inside the boot to about 1/4" deep to help prevent water intruding between boot and plug porcelain which can cause a misfire. It will also assist in removing the boot at next change.