Welcome to the forum Orillon and SyPHER

Good to hear that you guys had success with the plug changes.

 

I need to know which plug is #2 on my 03 f150 v8 triton 4.6

 

Welcome to the forum

firewall
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
radiator

#2 is the second one back on the passenger's side.

 

It has been a long time since posting - but then why post if my truck is performing flawlessly !!! And it still is !!

While it is still running well, at about 68K miles, spark plugs are on the horizon. I have my skin grafts and a couple of pints of blood ready for the exercise. With that said, I have just read this forum, which has to be about the longest ever.

(1) If I am reading the lines and between them, it is best to stick with OEM plug - i.e. Motorcraft rather than Nippon-Denso, Champions or any others. Am I correct in that assumption?

(2)Looking in my fairly extensive tool box, I don't see anything that I would call a "wobble" extension - some of mine are so old they flop around, but what is this "wobble" extension tool? 1/4 or 3/8 drive?? or ???

 

I used what we call a "universal" extension, to get around akward places. A small ratchet with a 4 inch extension and an 8mm socket made short work of removing the 8mm brass bolts that hold my COPs down. You may not have COP's I dont know? But a 3/8inch ratchet with a narrow 12inch extension works fine at removing the plugs. The number 8 plug for me was the hardest, because of its close proximity to the fuel rail and bracket. Having a universal around always helps. Denso is great if you have a high performance application, but they are expensive. I'm not sure if you could notice the difference for normal street applications, as compared with a Motorcraft Double Platimum. Motorcraft plugs are usually budget priced, and they perform great! I chose Champion Iridium, because they are about $40. cheaper than a set of 8 Denso's and I'm not racing. To top it off Champion Iridiums are nearly identicle to Denso's and they are the only Iridium plug that can be gapped to Ford's recommendations. The small size of the Iridium electrode is the primary reason why they dont usually need to be gapped as much. However, I like to keep a factory recommended gap, that's why I went with the Champion Iridiums by Federal Mogul. I hope this helps, and if you crack open a cold one and take your time, you shouldnt need to lose any blood over a plug change. Racerguy has an uber awesome tutorial in the beginning of the forum, I would use that to do the change. Peace
SyPHER

 

Thanks for the reply SyPHER,
After rereading the thread and your reply it doesn't appear that there are really any super special tools that I don't already have. I lost my faith in Champion plugs years ago when I had major fouling problems but now since F-M seems to own them as well as Fel-Pro and many other past well known brands, it may be time to reconsider.

Gotta put some warm ones in the fridge so that they will be cold for the "operation", gather up a bunch of tools and go to work. Need to change the serp belt as well.

Hmmmm, wonder about that Super Chips module .......

 

Thanks to all the info here, I managed to change plugs on wife's 99 Expy 5.4.
It took 4 hours, including several back stretches and a couple of beers.
I bought a 5 inch deep plug socket and a set of wobble extensions from Harbor Freight, had every thing else needed. Worst for me were the 7 and 3.I did not remove the fuel rail and it was tough getting the wrench on the COP bolt on 7, and just couldn't see anything on 3 with all the hoses. No major cuts, bruises or foul words. Several months ago I paid Mr. Dealer over $400 to change plugs on my 2000 F150 7700 5.4. I am enjoying the savings.Thanks again to all you guys for the info!
Ford Fan

 

I just installed a tach in my 2001 P71. The COPs cause problems when it comes to installing a tach, so you have to pick up a converter that will reformat the signal and splice it into the tach lead. I used MSD's model and it is definitely high quality compared to some of the ones I have seen. The instructions that come with the converter (MSD8913), were decent however, I was leary to cut into the coil harness..
(MAKE SURE THE KEYS ARE NOT IN THE IGNITION)

The unit youre looking for is connected to the harness that supplies the COPs and can be traced back from any COP. In my case its mounted behind the ABS controller. After tracing the wires running back from the COPs you will run into a black rectangular horizontally mounted box. The wire youre looking for to cut is red or white/blue. There isnt both, so dont get nervous. Note: (There is a red wire with black spots DO NOT CUT THIS). When you locate the solid red wire or white/blue wire pull as much back from the harness and find a spot where you can cut the wire leaving enough room on both ends to strip enough insulation off to crimp a weatherproof connector to. When this is done, crimp a connector to both ends (you can use bullet types if you want to revert back to stock later on). The RPM converter has a lead that connects to the tach, a ground that connects to any solid metal grounded location available, a positive wire that connects to the wire coming from the coil harness and another that connects to the wire going to the COPs. (These are the same wires that you cut earlier). Make sure you read the RPM converters instructions and connect the two positive line in the proper order, one goe "out" and the other "in." Crimp the weatherproof connectors to the two wires coming from the converter and make sure the wires are out of the way of heat and moving parts. Run the lead wire (MSD's is gray) through the firwall and connect to the tach wire that is noted as lead/e. Now the hard part is over, after you ground the tach and connect the positive to the fuse box and the dimmer control, youre all set to go! I spent about an hour on it, because I wanted it to look good. I would recommend that you mount the RPM converter to the firewall, and mark the holes with a sharpie marker and pre drill them. (MSD uses 3 screws that require a 5/32 pre-drill). Im using a 2 5/8" Sun Pro tach, I wish I bought a AutoMeter, theyre much better quality, but the SunPro is decent. Maybe someday I will pick one up : ).
Tools and parts: (Based on MSD Converter).

- MSD CONVERTER (MSD8913)
- TACH KIT (8cyl)
- 5 2-WAY WEATHERPROOF WIRE CONNECTORS
- (SPOOL OF 12V INSULATED AUTO WIRE)
- ELECTRICAL TAPE
- 5/32 DRILL BIT
- SMALL DRILL - (BIG ONE WONT FIT)
- WIRE CRIMPER
- WIRE STRIPPER
- WIRE CUTTER
- COAT HANGER (HELPS RUN WIRE THROUGH FIREWALL ETC.)
- + PHIL. SCREW DRIVER
- 1 FROSTY BEVERAGE OR MORE....

While MSD's intructions are good, I think this will help the modular crowd, ensure that they don't cut the wrong wires that come from the coil harness. And hopefully provide some sense of security in this type of installation. SyPH

 

Ireland,I recommend only using Motorcraft parts! I 1st put Bosch plugs and Napa wires but developed problems shortly after install! I replaced them with Motorcraft plugs and wires and she is running strong now! The wobble extension is not needed for all circumstances. I bought a set but ended up not even needing them while doing the plug change. My truck does not have COP's so it was even easier then the ones with COP's, I assume. I had a couple of extensions, long and short, and all plugs were easily accessible and came out fine. The plugs I replaced were originals with 117K miles on them! One thing I found that helped me was building a scaffle out of two milk crates and A 2" X 12" and placing it in front of my truck to stand on. I also took some old egg crate foam and stacked it about 6" high to lay my big ole belly on while reaching in the engine compartment. Just take your time, have all your tools handy and you can git- r -done!

 

[QUOTE=looneylariat]Ireland,I recommend only using Motorcraft parts! I 1st put Bosch plugs and Napa wires but developed problems shortly after install! I replaced them with Motorcraft plugs and wires and she is running strong now!

Thanks Looney - sounds like you have a 4.6 - a whole lot easier beast to work on, at least as far as plugs - except for the back ones. My last 150 had a 4.6 was a chore. Also had a couple of T-birds with a 4.6 that were downright simple - the engine compartment probably would have held a V-10.

I have talked to others outside of the forum and have decided Motorcraft are the way to go.

Interesting tho, just had my 7000 pound/29 foot camper out and it performed flawlessly (except needs about 50 Hp more to haul up the Adirondack mountain roads witout its "tongue" hanging out- I do long for my ol F350/460+)

 

I have always liked Motorcraft parts, that's why I drive Fords. However, I feel that Denso Iridiums are the best choice for any Ford 4.6l application. In most cases, you get what you pay for and spark plugs are no different. I have used $6.00 Bosch Platinum's and drove 100,000 miles with them. On that note, I have blown a $3.00 Bosch lowline plug on the highway after 50 miles, and when I swapped the rest out, I found several ceramic insulators had cracked...
I recently installed $8.00 Champion Iridiums into my 4.6l and I noticed a overall improvement throughout the entire RPM range. I pulled one out today after 500 hundred miles and found it to be in tip-top shape. I had to gap everyone of the Champions, they were way off from the specified .052, so I gapped them to .054 as Ford specified. I had a discussion with a close friend and modular owner and found out that he never gaps his plugs (Bosch) and his GT probably suffers from this oversight. The champs that I used are very similiar to Denso's, at a $2.00 per plug savings. However, Champion notes that you can gap their Iridium plugs up to .055, while Denso is .052. My target was factory spec, so I went with .054. I dont use Motorcraft plugs and I dont have any problems, if I pay the price for decent plugs.

 

replaced all plugs, now getting misfire on multiple cylinders, code po300. started all I had was code po306. checked everything I touched, do not see anything out of place or wrong. this engine runs fine at idle, but you put in gear, it wants stall, run rough,. any help?? I have cop's, no wires

 

Sounds like you crossed two, or more, wires.

Have a manual?

 

The harness for the COPs should place the wire connects right next to the COPs if it hasnt been modified; so I'm assuming you didnt cross any wires. I would remove the COPs again and check all of them for cracking and abnormal burn marks. The silicone boots can be removed from the COPs if you carefully twist and pull; the springs lie underneath and you can pull them apart an inch or so, and re-assemble. This will ensure the spring that contacts the plug has a decent amount of tension. And often when re-installing the COPs you can jam the silicone boots to the side of the plug; making no plug contact. Ford recommends that you use electric contact grease to contact the COP spring and the plug nipple as well. When you feed the COP boot over the plug make sure you feel the boot make contact and clamp over the plug; after this you should be good to go. A bad COP isnt out of the ordinary, so also take that into consideration, if you continue to have problems after you properly install the COPs I would advise you to go to a Ford dealership and have them troubleshoot your problem so you dont cause any damage to your engine or electrical system.

 

Paul, I have a '99 4.6 and don't have COP's. I don't know if you do or not. Syphers advise is great if you do. If you don't have cops, what brand plugs and wires did you use? I know it sounds crazy but I used Bosch plugs and Napa wires and my truck missed. I switched them both out for Motorcraft plugs and wires and have had no problems since. Might be something to look in to.