Well it's out - the PB blaster actually did soften the carbon enough to where the injector spun fairly free and wiggled much easier, so some ratchet and channel-locks action and it was out. #1 turned out to just be rusted in the head, not carboned, so the impact took it out pretty easy. I scraped the bores as best as I could, then shotgun-bore-brushed them, sprayed them clean with brake cleaner and they look pretty good now. I'm sure some junk fell in the precups, but that will get blown out when I crank the engine over again, but right now I'm waiting on the brake clean that went in there to evaporate so the engine don't hydrolock on me...

 

As long as you crank it over with the injectors out, any fluids will just blow out of the injector bore.
Same if you have a glow plug out.

When it will hydrolock is when the fluids have no place to go.

 

Yeah I had do do that when one of my GP hole filled up will diesel. Just left it out, unplugged the IP, and turned it over a few times and the fuel blew right out.

 

Well considering I was using the starter to turn the thing over, I wasn't about to take any chances. And it's kinda freaky how fast the engine turns over with no compression in the cylinders, almost like it would move the truck if I put it in gear.

 

So even tho I have my ip and injectors off should I crank it over to make sure no diesel went in?

 

Ain't diesel that goes in there, it's junk from around the injectors. And yes, I cranked mine with the pump off, will see tomorrow if the IP gear managed to kill the tach sender, lol.

 

Haha good point

 

If it were me, I would replace the IP before I cranked the engine over.
Then install the injectors or glow plugs.

 

How much fuel will go through the ip and spill everywhere?

 

I did my work in layers - first install injectors, then return lines (sans the front cross-over line), then the lines on the IP, then the IP on the truck, then the front return line crossover (also hooks up to the IP). I've done injectors with the high-pressure lines in the way, and it sucked - of course removing the lines from the IP would make sense, but those bottom line nuts are way to much a pain to deal with, I had enough frustration with this project already. But, turns out the gear didn't wipe out the tach sender, so all is good for me.

Captain Obvious to the rescue: if you unplug the harness from the FSS then there should be no fuel spilled at all

 

K. Im pretty sure water got down in there, what if I put injectors and ip in then just take glow plugs out to turn it over?

 

That would be fine.

The deal is you can not compress fluids.

As an example, we have a 900 foot long 6" water line that has a leak.
Run the line pressure up to 165 PSI, and in a hour it will loose 60 PSI.
Put the pump back on, run it back up to 165 PSI.
It only takes 2 quarts of water.
That line not counting fittings and plus two 2" taps and two 6" taps holds 417.66 gallons of water.

So as long as you leave a way for the fluids to get out, you will not hydrolock the engine.
It ithe cylinder was almost full of fluid, the engine should be be just bumped over with the starter for a revolution so the fluid has time to escape instead of a continuous 15 seconds steady cranking.

 

ok dave here is a question for ya.. i got everything installed. took forever to get it running but it does now. there is no noticable leaks but it runs like its missing. and really rough. once you hit the peddle a bit it smooths right out.. i took a video it is uploading right now

 

YouTube - Rough lope idle 7.3 idi

 

I think I spotted the leak. It is one of the bottom lines on the ip. Now I getta take it out again just to tighten it and hope that it works. Or any other ideas?