Hey everyone! I'm new to the forum . I actually "discovered" the forum when searching on google for some help on how to deal with a spark plug change on my 2000 5.4 Eddie B Expedition. I've done all the plug changes on my cars in the past, so I figured, "no problem - get some plugs, get home and finish in about an hour". um... RIGHHHHT. I did some searches on the forum, and found some good info - looks like I need to buysome boot protector lube and an attachment for my air-compressor to "blow junk out of the hole that the plug is in" and some "Anti-seize". OK - no problem, I'm on my way to stock up on the materials... my question is though...

How the heck do I get to the plugs?
Jeez, I've worked on all sorts of cars/bikes/airplanes in the past and I've NEVER seen a plug job like this!

Does anyone have a link to some instructions with pix? Thanks in advance if you post some info - I need it !

(oh yeah- I got the Bocsh +4's before I even read the boards - looks like I guessed right)

 

I would take the Bosch +4s back and get Motorcraft double
platinums....

Welcome to FTE!!!!!!!

 

Thanks Bob, but I have also read people are very satisfied with the +4's??

OK - forgot one MAJOR question, I have a decent set of 3/8" sockets, do I Need more? I read a post from yuk067 that suggests having a 1/4" set, a3/8" set and a 1/2" set - that seems a BIT excessive, are the 1/4 and 1/2 really necessary?

 

You need all day, a 1/4",3/8" rachet sets, 3/8" universal joint, 3/8 universal joint spark plug rachet head, small hands , a ton of patience, and a nice day. There are a few threads about how to replace the plugs and how much of a nightmare it can be w/o the right tools. Good luck.

 

Thanks 1999XLT, I actually read your post before posting my initial question. You helped me remember "little essentials" like boot protector lube and thread anti-seize . I think I have all the tools I need, now I just need a nice day and some patience.... has anyone taken pix while they worked on this job? Maybe I should attempt a post with pix and steps? I'm no professional mechanic, but I can at least show the basic steps (and what to look for). Where did I put that digicam....

 

Almost forgot to mention in my post, the 2000 I have has (sit down now) over 93K miles on it! I've been reading a lot about #4 coil pack problems... the reason I'm changing the plugs is that the car stutters at various speeds. At first I thought it was a transmission problem, but I checked the trans fluid and it is a real nice red color (and I take good care of the transmission). I reasoned that it is probably a spark problem, being that I almost have 100K on the car... hence my picking up the new plugs (little did I know how hard they were to change!). If it is a coil pack problem, how to I identify it? I'm curious, because I still have a little over 6K on my 100K warente....

 

Deathpulse if you take pics of the job as you go I think that would be great. We could maybe get someone here to make up a tech article on it. The question of how to change plugs comes up lots on here.
I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4s now and once you've done a set they really arent as bad as they look.
Contrary to what some people will tell you, you dont have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail.
I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the rad support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy
It makes the job way less painful.

Start by removing the cover over the throttle body...the black plastic cover that says 5.4 on it. There are 3 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the IAT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body.
Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on.
Now you should be able to see the COPs
To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nutdriver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above.
If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Dont be surprised if there is rust and junk in them.
Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good
On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet.
The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall etc.
Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the rad support....usually .052-.056".
Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug.
You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Crossthreaded plug threads are no fun
The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet.
Don't overtighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is.
After that just put everything back together in reverse order.
Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.

I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it it takes a few hours.
Let us know how it goes

 

If you still have a miss after you replace the plugs you could have a bad COP. By 2000 model year they had the leaking heater hoses pretty much fixed. The heater hose is above the #4 COP.
Check to make sure the hose clamp is tight. If it has been leaking usually the top of the COP will have a green tint to it.

 

Thanks Racerguy! This looks like a good set of quick things to think about - JUST what I needed. I have 4 hours set aside (more if needed) on Thursday. I'll try and take some pix of possible, so that I can help start a little guide (My digicam has been a bit shifty lately... lets see how it works out).

 

Good catch 03F150MAN.

Here is the link for those directions.

http://www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html

 

Nice link, I'll definately use it when I change the plugs in our Expy.

LH

 

THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP!! I did the job today - took me 3 hours (mostly trying to convince myself that I was re-installing the COPs ok - see my COPs related post). The links/steps and advice were all critical to me completing the job without killing myself/my truck!!! now... my next trick.. replacing the COPs... muahahaaha! I can do anything now