Well I just found the engine swap section and currently have a build page going on in the 73-79 section. Thought I would start a thread over here as I have some questions that are more specific to this thread.

I tore the motor I am using out of a 1988 Ford Thunderbird. It is a speed density 302 with an AOD transmission.

Here is where I started


Thunderbird


Truck


Some progress pics

Engine on stand


360 and C6 out


Firewall paint.


302 and AOD in!


So now I am to the point of hooking everything up. My first first and foremost question is that of where do I mount the ECU?? I do not want to mount it in the glove box. I like having that room and I do not want to cut another hole in the firewall. I like the idea of mounting it in the engine bay somewhere. Has anyone seen this before, or been in my situation? My thoughts are that I should build a box for it and bolt it to the inner fender behind the battery box. What would I need for a box for the ECU? I was thinking of making one out of sheet metal and lining it with foam, sealing it off so that it is water tight. I guess what I am looking for is some recommendations or ideas for what I am aiming to do. Any other experience or input is also appreciated!

Original build thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wap-build.html

Photobucket Album (alot more pictures!):
1974 Ford F100 The Beast 2 pictures by bjsiebert0309 - Photobucket

Thanks for looking!

Brandon

 

you might look into getting the mounting hardware from an F150/bronco and placing it on the firewall in the engine compartment. This will allow you to secure it easily, then just build a thin tin cover keeping it open on the bottom for the connector, cables and some minor airflow.

the mounting hardware on an F150/bronco would be located behind the driverside kick panel and parking brake.

Just curious, isnt that year Tbird Speed density efi?

 

Good idea. I am sure I can find some mounting hardware close, just the input I am looking for. Yes this 302 is a speed density EFI, future plans are to buy an A9L computer and convert it to MAF.

 

I removed your other (duplicate) thread on this.

I posted in there:

Keep it cool, and dielectric-grease the connector. Not the pins themselves, just around the perimeter of the connector where there (should) be a rubber seal.

The ECM box itself is not sealed I don't think, hence why they put it inside the passenger compartment. Since you're going to put it in a box, make sure there's some room around the ECM so it can cool itself off. Locking it up in an air-tight box is sure to overheat it. Because it has no mounting ears or anything else to allow it to physically contact metal so that the mounting can heat-sink the ECM, it'll get hot. Even radiant heat from the engine, especially when idling or slow-moving, it'll get even warmer (hot!).

Personally, given the cooling issues, I would mount it in the passenger compartment

And don't paint the box you put it in BLACK

 

Thanks for removing the duplicate, internet was acting up a little yesterday. Maybe I'll look further into mounting it inside. Thanks for the input about it needing a heat sink!

 

that year truck should have plenty of room under the center area of the dash. just dont have it near the heater core and away from any heater vents.

 

That looks pretty sharp! I wasn't sure about your choice of engine colors at first but once I saw it in the truck I changed my mind. And in case you didn't know... the upper portion of that intake is reversable so you could route the intake plumbing to whatever side works best for the engine bay layout. If you do swap it around the truck valve covers will give you a front oil fill on the drivers side and rear PCV on the passenger side.

 

The intake manifold swapped the other way, drivers side, might be what I am looking at, running an intake pipe will be easier on that side. Thanks for the insight!

Should have posted in the engine swap section months ago, much more advice over here!

 

Here is some more progress on my truck.

Where I am right now.


Fuel Surge Tank Mounted


Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Mounted


Braided sleeving I am going to use for wire loom.


On top of the progress I came up with a load of questions. I haven't mounted the ECU yet as I am still debating where to put it and what to mount it in.

1. I took the power steering return and cooling line off to mount the low pressure fuel pump. I want to cool it still. I am going to run an external tranny cooler, could I run the power steering through the old tranny cooler that is built into the radiator? I don't see any reasons why I couldn't.

2. The wiring harness for the 5.0. I bought an EGR emlimiator kit from BC Broncos. The DPFE sensors did not come with the car. Can I just cut the DPFE wires out of the wiring harness as I do not plan on using them or the EGR. Do I need these DPFE sensors? Same thing with the A/C harness and plugs, I should be able to just cut those out without consequences right?

3. Lastly which should be easy. Where to run the ground on the starter? I know it goes down there but don't remember to exactly where on the starter.

Thanks for any input or answers.

Brandon

 

Figured out my ECU issues. Going to run some computer case fans to help cool, I think that should be enough.


.50 cal ammo boxes come in handy for many reasons!


Going to have to paint the ECU box, it doesn't look the greatest. But the tool box I'm going to keep looking like that.

 

That's funny, I have one just like that from my father-in-law, same caliber

 

Well I've been running into so many issues when trying to get my fuel lines run. My goal with the fuel lines is to as little fuel hose as possible and to use tubing and fittings wherever possible... but I am having a hard time finding fittings!

This is what I need... I figure maybe someone that sees this may be able to help me.

Male 1/8" NPT to Female 5/16" flared brake line.

and

Male 1/2" NPT to Female 5/16" flared brake line.

If you can think of anything or give me any ideas that would be very helpful!

Thanks,
Brandon

 

Following this thread with interest, I'm considering the same swap in my 78 f-150.

 

JEGGS has a bunch of adapters:

JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters - JEGS

McMaster-Carr they have TONS of stuff like that. If you go talk to a hydralic line shop I'd be willing to bet they can set you up on site though. I may be doing much the same conversion on a 1968 F250 with a 360 soon so I'll be following this. I've already installed a 1993 Ford Lightning 351W with A9 computer and MAF with C4 in my '70 Bronco. I'll help as much as I can.

My ECU is mounted in the cab on the passenger kick panel so I can't help you there. Once you mount the CPU and get the engine running you won't likely touch the ECU again. What kind of fuel line are you using? I just used the poly line for the high pressure, the return it doesn't matter. You simply need the connector that hooks to the fuel return line with a barbed end on it to hook a regular line to to run back to your tank. Sounds like you're running metal line or stainless though so I'll help with whatever I can...

Lee