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Well after work last night I decided to install my new HPx from Clay with out removing the spider. I did notice a few things and wanted to mention it so others can benifit from these small tips. I found using a 5/8 wrench was easier on the driver side bolt and I used a 5/8 deep socket 3/8 drive worked very well on the pass side. When installing the new fittings into the engine the combo of the wrench on the driver side and socket on the pass side worked great. Now for the tricky part. When I installed the tube the easiest way to snake it in is from the pass side under the trans dip stick then under the turbo inlet and onto the fitting. To tighten the tube onto the fittings in the heads a standard length 11/16 wrench worked great on the driver side and a stubby wrench on the pass side did the trick since a standard length is just a little too long.
Also my truck sat for 2 days and when I removed the plugs in the heads i didnt have to use a rag to catch any oil since it had drained back to the pan. So there was very little clean up. So if you plan on doing this mod and your not pressured in time let the truck sit and you will have a clean install.
If anyone would like pictures to help this thread out Id be more then happy to take some. I hope this helps anyone who is going to do this mod.
One other thing for the guys who have done this mod already, did you notice if your truck had started faster? This morning it was in the single digits the truck was plugged in and usually it take a few cranks then starts but today it fired up extremely fast.
Didn't seem to do much for my truck, just made it a fuzz quieter. Put one on dads truck and it made it quieter, smoother, start faster, and hasn't gotten the romps on dino oil since.
I did this mod about three weeks ago. Seems like everybody’s trucks are a little different go figure. The HPx did not make my truck that much quieter but it does run smoother especially at low med throttle. It did help with the off clack I was getting at partial throttle, but installing the black CPS remedied this all together.
I've mentioned before, and will do so again now due to its relevancy.
The amoint of engine noise, ease of startup, and smooth idling/running are all affected by numerous variables, several of which are affected by some common mods and owner's choice.
Some of the variables are:
Owner's choice...
- type, brand, & weight of engine oil
- type of fuel (dino, veggie, bioD, etc.)
Engine Characteristics
- air in fuel
- imbalanced pressure between fuel rails
- imbalanced pressure between oil rails
Mods which affect these are:
- harpoon/hutch mods
- connecting the two oil rails together (HPX)
- connecting the two fuel rails together (FRx, CCK, Regulated Return, etc.)
The point is this... depending upon which of these mods or choices are in place when the HPX is installed, each user will see varying effects on engine noise, startup, and idling/running. I have seen the "law of diminishing returns" work on this issue, and that just means that for every one of the mods/choices you impose to address the noise, startup, and running of your engine, each additional effort will give you smaller returns on your investment. None of the mods/choices will address 100% of the desired effect, but each can/will help, but the help will come with progressively diminishing benefits.
EDIT: Lest I lead you to think that you should not do everything possible with all of the mods mentioned above, that is NOT what I am suggesting. I have done them all on each of my vehicles, and will do more as I can. Again, the only real point of my blithering is that you'll "hear" or "notice" less impact with each progressive step forward... not a bad thing, just reality. Keep your expectations realistic.
I installed the one as supplied by RR and it was straight forward. I did not take the spider off and it was no big deal. I did remove the passenger side air intake tub from the spider and this made it easier to get the wrench in but that was it. I did also let the truck site over night and there was very little oil that came out at all; basically when the caps where first removed and that was it.
I have the Solid tube HPX from RR sitting in the living room along with a 3 gauge pod, gauges and an AE just waiting for the warmer weather to get here. Other than a 6637 these will be my first , but not last, mods. Thanks for the post. I was going to try and do mine withour removing the spider but had not looked at it yet. This helps me a lot.
Regarding flow or pressure, the shape of the tubing (number of bends, peaks, etc.) will not make any difference. If you do the PVnRT physics calculations and consider how the oil is moving versus the inside diameter and length (volume) of the HPX tube, any air bubles which may get in the system will get collapsed to minute volumes and flushed out of the tubing. The whole purpose is to equalize pressure, so flow is not an issue either. In fact, you could install a system which only separated the two sides with a diaphragm and accomplish the same pressure balance.
Now, if you're asking because of other proposed modifications you want to make which will consume space near the HPX routing areas, then maybe the shape of the tubing will make a difference, depending upon how much room you need.
Even if the engine is warm, just shove the tip of a rag into the head port and your loss will be minimal. You'll more than likely already have some oil in the valley which will be far more than you'll lose by doing thsi mod.