wow, those are nice, im still torn between the two because im a daily driver so i dont realy need alot of light but more would be helpful because i feel like i cant see as far as id like to when theres no street lights

 

Well both the head light and fogs cost only a total of $200. I also daily drive my truck too.

Jordan

 

yeah, thats not that bad, i dont have the stock fog lights but i was looking into those hella lights, i was thinking a 6000k HID kit or the kit from dfuser for halogen bulbs

 

I bought a 2005 headlight conversion kit for my '04 off ebay for $175. They were factory headlights new in the package with bulbs, pigtails, and install instructions. I was sure that I would get HID lights. Put the new headlights in the truck and was thrilled not only with how they look but how they perform. I may still do HID's in the future but for now I have great light output and am very happy with them.

I would suggest pulling the trigger and getting the conversion kit, install the headlights and drive with them for a while. If later you decide to install HID's, no problem....

 

That's true ill have to use the stock lights and see what I think, as for the hella 4000 celis lights can those be wired up to the upfitter toggle switches?

 

I've got my Hella Rallye 4000s (non Celis) hooked up to a factory upfitter switch. My lights use 100 watt bulbs, so I used a 30 amp upfitter switch, not a 10 amp. I believe there are two 30 amp and two 10 amp switches. 1 & 2 = 30 amp. 3 & 4 = 10 amp.

 

Yeah, I wasn't sure because of the led light I didn't know it it needed its own switch

 

do the celis ones have to be wired differently than the regular hella 4000 lights?

 

Yes. The Celis feature is a ring of L.E.D. light. think of it as daytime driving lights. You'll need positive and negative for the driving lights plus you'll have to hook the Celis to a 12v source that's tied to the ignition or to the parking light switch.

These guys are the biggest Hella dealer/distributor and helpful with technical questions. Susquehanna MotorSports - High Performance Vehicle Lighting and Competition Accessories If you're thinking about the Celis, you're looking at the 4000 Compact lights. I'm running the full sized 4000s - about 8 7/8" diameter vs. 6 3/4". Bigger reflector = more light.

Whichever you decide on, get the clear Lexan stone shields.

 

awsome thanks alot!

 

I understand peoples concerns with cops and pissing people off with the hid kits. And if this is your concerns then do not do it. For everyone else, they are the best thing since sliced bread for me. I use them in all my vehicles including my harley and cannot go back to regular lights. Hell, I even did the conversion in my plow lights. If you are really concerned with the scatter and such then there are projector hid headlight assemblies out there that you could convert to and be all set too. Again just my 2 cents for what its worth

 

If you are already upgrading your headlights I recommend projector style headlights at least for the low beam. I'm not familiar enough with newer trucks so maybe that upgrade is included. The advantage of a projector beam is that the light is much more focused and has a very clean edged cut off line at the top of the beam. This means light scattered high and blinding oncoming drivers is not an issue unless your truck sits high like mine. I only get flashed when towing a heavy load at night that lowers the rear of my truck despite air bags.

I started by upgrading to projector beams with 130 watt halogens. Upgrading from halogens to 55 watt HIDs was a major improvement. My only gripe is that the aftermarket headlights for my year truck offer very little adjustability but are fortunately very true from the factory. They also cost me less than stock replacements and are DOT approved.

HID bulbs are a clear upgrade over halogens. Halogens come on with immediate strength but they burn much hotter, do not last as long, and are not as bright. I have 130 watt bulbs in my Pro Comp 6" stainless lights. I like that they have more of a yellow tint as the lower Kelvins provide better visibility in weather such as fog and rain. In my experience higher Kelvins are more reflective against road signs and lighter road surfaces but are not as effective on darker pavement.

My 55 watt HIDs have a lifetime warranty and have already outlasted any Silverstars or other halogen headlight bulbs I've ever run in this truck. I was replacing bulbs every few months, tried kits that wire directly to the batteries, etc. Installing HIDs means you will have additional wiring to figure out but it does go directly to the batteries. For me it was an opportunity to replace the mess I'd made after years of trying to improve the factory lighting.

I use 100% constant duty solenoids to keep some low mounted halogen driving lights on with my low and high beams so I have more of a yellow tint helping out. If I replace my HID headlight bulbs with anything other than the 4,300 Kelvin or so I now have it will be toward a lower number that is more yellow. I also have my low beams and additional lights wired to my high beams so that when I engage my high beams every light on the front of my truck is on. The most powerful of which are what Alaskan's refer to as moose lights by Lightforce, which are almost necessary if you want to have a chance of seeing an extremely dark bodied moose or bear against a dark background during half a year of darkness.

Upgrading to projector beams with HIDs is a tremendous improvement in lighting. LED lights in the new headlights look pretty cool and actually throw some decent light in there as well.

 

As for speed my low beams are at least as bright as a factory halogen immediately and within about 20-30 seconds are far brighter. My slowest lights are the enormous moose lights. At first they are very dim and take about 1 minute to reach incredible brightness so bright you'd expect it to singe the hair off a deer's back at 200 yards. Extremely powerful! And since I have to dim them frequently on the highway I can tell you turning them on and off is not a problem. After initial brightness is achieved, you can have them dimmed for several minutes and they will still come back on fully bright, not dim. No delay after the first warmup. That's the worst, not even an issue with the headlights.

 

I just upgraded to the H13 PIAA and they are quite a bit better. I have the dfuser kit on order which will allow low and high on high and allow the fogs on with low and high. When you use the flash to pass and hold it this will show you what all lights on get you. The kit uses direct to battery, ceramic plugs, heavy gauge wording. Will let you know what it does. I will also be adding light force moose lights off of upfitter 1 shortly. For when I really want light. Debating drill the bumper or a light bar of some kind. I too drive in the dark all the time, winter is really bad, in town and for work longer trips. Usually several hours of dark morning and night, shortest days about 7 hours daylight only. I have wanted the moose lights for a longtime, old 2000 had aircraft landing lights with 150 watt sealed beams.

 

i was thinking of getting those lights if i dont go with the HIDs ive heard alot of good things about them