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Dipstick/Oil pan leak CAN be fixed!! By Rubber Duck
Ford part #F4TZ-6753-A $3.50
laying under the truck with my legs sticking out under the drivers door gave me the easiest manuverability and visability.
First you have to take the starter out. 3-17mm bolts. The two bottom bolts are easy with a rachet. The top one, not so much. I cut a regular wrench about 5 inches long from the box end. (I had a spare.) No problem after that. I just let the starter hang by the cable, easy like. LOL
Next I removed the 10mm bolt holding the dipstick to the VC, and removed the dipstick.
Next, I checked to see how good the dipstick held in the bulkhead. It held pretty good, but as a precaution, I used my needle nose vice grips to grab the bulkhead.
Next, take the nut off.
Now, I held the bulkhead threads with my free hand and took the vicegrips off. Just for a second, to be able to move the nut up the dipstick. Then grabbed the bulkhead again with the vicegrips and angled them with the dipstick tube itself with the nut above it.
Next, I pushed the bulkhead in the oil pan enough to get the old O-ring out. A piece of it was missing about 1/2 inch of it. I don't see that being a problem.
Next, I ran my finger all the way around the inside to make sure it was smooth and clean.
Next, I fed the new oring down the dipstick tube. You have to kinda snake it past the exhaust manifold, but no big deal.
Now I cleaned the oring of any dirt and worked it past the nut. Again holding the bulkhead with my free hand, I took the vg's off. Then back on again after you get the oring to the threads of the bulkhead.
Next I worked the oring in the pan opening to the bulkhead face. I couldn't get it in the grove it was supposed to ride in. So what I did was position the oring twards the top (in the groove) and gently pulled the bulkhead to the pan. This pushed the oring into the groove where it needed to be.
Now, release the vg's easy like and thread the nut on.
Tighten it up!!!!!!!!
Reinstall the starter and fire it off and check your work!!!
It was very easy and only took about an hour. Most of the time is spent worrying about dropping the bulkhead. Anyway, there's my little writeup. Enjoy.
Thanks fellas, it's a buddy of mines '99 & he took it to Ford. They told him they'd pull the engine & fix it. I told him that was horse sh-t so I may take on the job if he will pull that heavy starter out of the way...lol
My dipstick is almost impossible to get back in , its very hard to push.
Suppose this is a cure?
Probably not. Look at the link to Andy's thread with pictures that I posted earlier. You'll see where the dipstick separates from the lower part. I'd suggest you remove the upper part of the tube and see how the dipstick slides in and out of the tube. That's probably where your problem lies.
I replaced the oring and flange nut on mine and did not use the goop on the outside.Have everything laid out under the truck if you do not have a helper.Take your time.
I've done it with the oil pan in the truck using the Int'l 'repair kit' ($60ish - Bob's is a much better deal!!) and most recently with oil pan off. Engine in truck was stressful, but not really hard. I used sealant liberally on the outside with a gasket both times.
I ordered a new dipstick and dipstick tube when I put engine back in last time. I noticed the dipstick is SMALLER. Might solve your problem?? I was tired of the hard-to-push-in dipstick - it is sooooooo nice to check oil level with only one hand again.
My dipstick is almost impossible to get back in , its very hard to push.
Suppose this is a cure?
I had the same problem. All I had to do was push the top of dipstck tube toward the firewall about an inch. This bent the dipstick tube bracket back to where it should be. I think laying on top of the engine pushed the bracket down and forward. Once I got it back to it's proper position the dipstick goes in and out very easily. I was surprised that is all it took.
Be sure the leak is at the flange. I thought mine was leaking and it wound up being the o-ring on the end of the dipstick tube where it goes into the flange.
I had the same problem. All I had to do was push the top of dipstck tube toward the firewall about an inch. This bent the dipstick tube bracket back to where it should be. I think laying on top of the engine pushed the bracket down and forward. Once I got it back to it's proper position the dipstick goes in and out very easily. I was surprised that is all it took.
Im heading out the door to check that right now.
Ive spent more time laying on that motor than I have on my bed..............
I dont check my oil as often as I should because its so hard to get the dipstick back in.