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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 10:34 AM
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ESOF issue

We have been having a bit of snow/ice over the last week so I have been using 4x4 during regular driving. I have noticed that my hubs stay locked even after switching back to 2WD. Now, I don't necessarily mind getting out to lock the hubs when need be, but they will not disengage. How do I manually unlock the hubs? Also, how bad is it really to drive on dry pavement with 4x4? When driving to work there will be spots that necessitate 4x4, but the remainder of the roadway will be dry. I tried just leaving it in 2WD, but I got hung up in a couple of places. I didn't drive too far (maybe 60 miles total over the last few days) and the speed was 40 or below. I just want to make sure I will not break anything. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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You dont want to drive on dry pavement in 4x4....but in saying that...and from what you wrote in your post.... Just because the hubs are locked doesn't mean you are in 4x4.

With 4x4 actually turned on, you should not drive on dry pavement, especially through turns. The inside wheel spins slower than the outside wheel so you will get tire "skipping" and this will put excessive pressure on the drive train parts.

However, having the hubs locked, but in 2WD, no biggie. You just lose a bit of mileage.

When you turn off 4x4 with the switch, it disengages your transfer case via electric motor seperating the front drive from the rear drive. It also disengages your hubs via vacuum.
IF the hubs aren't disengaging easily, then you may try pulling the hubs...cleaning them then dipping them in tranny fluid. This will allow for free movement without it being dry. Some people make the mistake of putting a thick grease in the locking hubs when servicing them and this keeps them from moving as freely as they should.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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It could be the seals also. Everytime you shut down it gives the hubs another shot of releasing vacuum but if they are acting up (mine does that too), I would just leave them locked for the winter and once they do release, they will stay like that. Then it will just be a matter of flipping the switch to engage 4WD.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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There is a great article on properly servicing the hub locks here...

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page

According to my service manual, if you turn the dial from Auto to Lock I think 3 times, it will unlock the hub, regardless of the vacuum lock position.

It might also be a good time to use a hand vacuum pump with a gauge and hand pump up the vacuum lines and hubs to see if they leak down. That will find any vacuum leaks that need repaired.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dchamberlain
According to my service manual, if you turn the dial from Auto to Lock I think 3 times, it will unlock the hub, regardless of the vacuum lock position.
That's some great info right there. I had hub issues on my 2000 that started with them not unlocking. I'd lift the front of the truck up and move the wheels back and forth while messing with the dial. Dealt with it for a while, ended up giving up after some troubleshooting. Decided to just cap the lines and manually locked them. Not my issue anymore though...
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jc8825
How do I manually unlock the hubs?
I have had that problem intermittently. Made a repair, but don't know for sure whether it is fixed yet.

Anyway, I learned that when they did not unlock automatically, if I turned the manual dial back and forth from AUTO to LOCK several times (2 or 3), they have always corrected themselves and unlocked. Good thing to know.

Mine are the newer hubs however, so I can't say if it will work on the older ones.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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Thanks for all the info. Whereas I like everything on my truck to work as it was designed, I can deal with locking the hubs manually for right now. I will fix it later (probably during the summer.) After this snow/ice clears up I will attempt to manually unlock the hubs. Right now, I have them manually locked and just switch into 4x4 when needed.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jc8825
Thanks for all the info. Whereas I like everything on my truck to work as it was designed, I can deal with locking the hubs manually for right now. I will fix it later (probably during the summer.) After this snow/ice clears up I will attempt to manually unlock the hubs. Right now, I have them manually locked and just switch into 4x4 when needed.
There you go.........
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 07:05 PM
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I'm with you jc. Mine don't lock with the ****, so I just have them locked and will unlock them when no longer needed. I just flip the switch to engage the transfer case. I'll be fixing them in the spring/summer or whenever sooner that I have time. Shouldn't hurt anything to just leave the hubs locked til spring melt.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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Just remember, it is just as important to exercise those lockers during the winter as it is the rest of the year. Leave them locked all winter, and you might find they won't unlock this spring.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Mine act up from time to time, either not engaging properly or not disengaging.
My question - when in 2WD, what is really engaged/turning/wearing if hubs are manually locked vs unlocked.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by LaredoF350
Mine act up from time to time, either not engaging properly or not disengaging.
My question - when in 2WD, what is really engaged/turning/wearing if hubs are manually locked vs unlocked.
I don't think you are abusing anything if you leave them locked all the time. Your front axles are turning and the differential is turning. The only thing that I think suffers is the front axle U-joints. Especially on the earlier trucks that don't have zerks. I know when mine are locked, in a full lock turn I can feel the U-joints going over center and a slight bind. So I try to avoid full lock turns any time they are locked, in 2 or 4 wheel drive.

But again, I don't think you are hurting anything, and exercise is good.
 
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