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when installing a egr delete kit,is this all that i will have to do or are there other mods that i will have to do along with this? does this effect the emissions test at inspection time
Last edited by steelkiwi75; Feb 2, 2011 at 09:05 PM.
Reason: added a ?
Are you having problems or just want to delete it before you do? My EGR cooler was leaking into the intake so this is what I did.
I took the turbo apart and cleaned the veins, installed an updated (bigger) turbo oil drain tube, rebuilt the oil cooler ( not very hard), and cleaned the inside of the intake. Then installed eveything along with the EGR delete. Oh yea, and cussed alot in 30* weather.
Do a coolant flush with distilled water prior to taking it all apart. (granted this is not a good idea if it will be sitting in freezing weather) Search for "coolant flush 101" on here for great step by step. This will get the junk out of the system prior to you installing a new oil cooler.
---- What year is your truck? (matters on how the ECM treats the EGR being gone) What type of emissions testing do you have? I do not have emissions here, but if you do and know what they are doing you will not pass most likely.
Are you having problems or just want to delete it before you do? My EGR cooler was leaking into the intake so this is what I did.
I took the turbo apart and cleaned the veins, installed an updated (bigger) turbo oil drain tube, rebuilt the oil cooler ( not very hard), and cleaned the inside of the intake. Then installed eveything along with the EGR delete. Oh yea, and cussed alot in 30* weather.
Do a coolant flush with distilled water prior to taking it all apart. (granted this is not a good idea if it will be sitting in freezing weather) Search for "coolant flush 101" on here for great step by step. This will get the junk out of the system prior to you installing a new oil cooler.
---- What year is your truck? (matters on how the ECM treats the EGR being gone) What type of emissions testing do you have? I do not have emissions here, but if you do and know what they are doing you will not pass most likely.
right now my truck wont even start, so i have to get that problem fixed first, but am looking into a delete kit. i live in nc, so i will have to check emissions.
i pretty much did everything that desertt5 did. the only other thing i did was i replaced all of the silicone intercooler hoses. got them from a tractor pulling parts house, dont remember the name though. my stock silicon was in pretty bad shape and i had issues with one coming off before.
look at a bullet egr cooler. if they check emissions then yes it will effect that. bullet coolers are literally bullet proof and the truck will still remain stock
I also live in NC around the Raleigh area. As of now, there isn't any emission testing for diesels just a safety inspection. As part of the safety inspection, I have seen them check for the EGR valve and proper exhaust componets. They failed a person who work with me for not having the valve. It really depends on the inspector. If you are going to remove the egr cooler, etc so far they have not been able to tell.
There is the option of just sealing it up at both ends. There are a few on here that have done it. It "looks" like factory with everything still in place for visual inspections.
You can put an EGR blocker plate in between the cooler & the exhaust pipe. It will solve the issue of exhaust gas getting back into the intake. Your still going to have issues with cooler plugging if your pumping casting sand through the cooling system. (Cough, coolant filters help stop the sand). If you delete the EGR cooler...leave the EGR valve in place. The states that are only visually checking for emissions then everything will look normal (especially if your using the blocking plate)...and most importantly, as long as the EGR valve is plugged in the radiator fan will come on before the truck overheats. There is a minor code in the latest (or last couple) of flashes that is looking for the EGR valve. If it isn't "there" the cooling fan won't come on...regardless of how hot the coolant gets.
If your state "sniffs the pipe" then your screwed as soon as you modify anything on the truck....including tuners. Thus, my truck will never be registered in "pipe sniffing states"...not exactly legal anymore.
You can put an EGR blocker plate in between the cooler & the exhaust pipe. It will solve the issue of exhaust gas getting back into the intake. Your still going to have issues with cooler plugging if your pumping casting sand through the cooling system. (Cough, coolant filters help stop the sand). If you delete the EGR cooler...leave the EGR valve in place. The states that are only visually checking for emissions then everything will look normal (especially if your using the blocking plate)...and most importantly, as long as the EGR valve is plugged in the radiator fan will come on before the truck overheats. There is a minor code in the latest (or last couple) of flashes that is looking for the EGR valve. If it isn't "there" the cooling fan won't come on...regardless of how hot the coolant gets.
If your state "sniffs the pipe" then your screwed as soon as you modify anything on the truck....including tuners. Thus, my truck will never be registered in "pipe sniffing states"...not exactly legal anymore.
lol, thanks zhilton. i am going to put a coolant filter on. any suggestions on where and good price for one? an ty everyone else for their replies
I think one of the site sponsors was offering a "bocker" plates that would bolt in on both sides of the cooler so even if the cooler leaked...the coolant stays in the cooler and doesn't enter the intake system. But I'm coming up empty when I search for it. Or if you want to do it low tech, you can use U-joint caps hammered into each end of the cooler..then tact weld 'em in.
I don't think u joint caps tacked in is going to work. First egr cooler is stainless steel, u caps are not, someone on here said stainless freeze plugs i could not find them anywhere. What you put in has to be water tight incase the cooler breaks inside, so water doesn't get in to intake. take stainless stock cut plugs have them TIG welded in. This is what i did with mine it looks stock and is cheaper mine was free cause my friend has tig welder, a welding shop shouldn't charge to much.JMO
My EGR cooler has a u-joint cap driven into the intake manifold end covered with thick gasket material and gray sealer. The y-pipe end has a blind flange made from the up-pipe connecting flange and uses the factory clamp and metal gasket to seal it. It makes the EGR cooler work as a water pipe even if it leaks internally and has a totally stock look to it.
I guess seems a lot less trouble to just weld in plugs
The only down side is once you weld the plugs in...it's kind of permanent. If you wanted/needed to undo that some day your looking at replacing the cooler. That's the only downside I can see. Well outside the legal stuff that is.