Yes to an extent but since most alignment techs aren't really all that skilled these days mucking about with something other than what the book calls for is beyond them. Liability surely figures into it all as well---most don't want to do something on their own for hire.

The alignment folks I've approached had NO interest at all in working with replacement bushings like those from Aligncraft. Whether they were a bit scared to dig into something unfamiliar or a money issue anything past a DIY install didn't seem possible here locally.

Ideally finding that one shop already experienced in this and access to or owning an alignment rack would be perfect. That's truly the elusive part of this, at least for me here in Columbus, Ohio.

 

On the topic of a DIY install, here is the procedure that worked for me using Ingalls 594 Sleeves:


1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Loosen Pinch Bolt and Remove installed sleeve(s).
3. Install 594 (M over G for Drivers side, M over S for Passengers side)
4. Torque Pinch Bolt as per (Ingalls) 59400.pdf Instructions
5. Reinstall wheel.
6. Align Toe to specified Toe and "you are good to go".


The M/G and the M/S will set your sleeves to be Caster +2.00 from neutral and Camber 0.00 from neutral.


I do not have the data to be sure BUT my guess is:


Neutral Caster is +4.5 minus Nose down attitude OR add Nose up attitude.


Neutral Camber is 0.0 +/- angular rotation due to amount of spring deflection.

 

Harvard the process of fitting the bushings is relatively easy and uncomplicated but were I to do this myself I'd much prefer having the work verified by an alignment bench or system.

The before and after readings would make me more comfortable and save the aggravation of not knowing how close the finished settings were relative to near ideal.

That's just me though and its great you shared your experience with this modification. In fact it was through one of your posts I first looked into adding + Caster a few years back.

 

JWA, I agree as I have had to wait out some 6 years and 30,000 miles to be confident the exercise was a total all around success.

 

Unfortunately Harvard I'm far far too **** and anxious for resolution quicker than that!

I've become better acquainted with a customer's shop mechanic who works on E-Series on a regular basis. I'll run some of this past him, I'm sure he'll know someone willing to do a bit of experimentation. Even if this sort of installation runs $200 (less parts of course) it would be worth it.

 

Great to see you pop by JWA!

 

Hey Woman---how ya be? Still wrestling with that van under the carport down in HotLanta?

 

I am dong great and hope you are too! Oh, you know me and that van...I'll have the whole van rebuilt soon! Over 15k miles since I bought it and it hasn't quit on me yet!

How is the glass business going?

 

rules are made to be broken
One way or another whether it DIY or a shop, it should be checked
Ditto

 

 

nuts...what is going on?

 

I find myself asking the same question minute-by-minute sometimes!

Glass is a bit slow at the moment, about once a year I hit a lull that can last a few weeks but it'll bounce back soon enough. As much as I complain about working I miss it sometimes. Another downside is it gives me too much time to think what else I can do to my van---working on modifying the coolant flow through the front heater core for the "cold air mod".

I think that's what we're all doing here so yeah can't disagree.

Agreed, 100%. With Harvard's more practical in-hand how-to on establishing the initial off-set using the Ingalls et al bushings this might be easier to do with an outfit who'd co-operate with this type of swap.

I do wonder if +5 Caster is "good" why don't we push that to +6? What would that yield?

 

Quote from JWA:
"I do wonder if +5 Caster is "good" why don't we push that to +6? What would that yield?"


Some have ended up at 6+ if they used the available +2 degrees AND their nose up OR nose down is either 0.0 degrees or towards nose up (very rare IMO)


Here is my theory, in the context that a theory may easily be proven wrong but never proven right (if it were right".


Take a 2011 for example:


The caster spec is:
RH 3.90 +/- 2.90
LH 4.30 +/- 2.90


My theory says that Ford manufactures the parts such that if the top of the upper ball joint is centered perfectly then the resulting runtime caster is going to be at spec +/- nose attitude (minus for nose down, plus for nose up).


AND


The resulting camber will be 0.0 +/- angular effect of spring loading (compression).


This is just a theory, please help to prove it wrong.

 

I don't know specifically about vans but on cars you can get something called caster shock and can affect your scrub radius

 

Do NOT want that affected---Michelin LTX's are expensive enough with their already long life.

How are we inducing nose attitude changes---is that a function of changing caster from +3 to +5?