i have a 1990 ford f350 with a 7.3 diesel that is jumk, it has an a4od trans, what gas engine will bolt to that tranny, i would like to convert it over to a 302 or something, thought about 460 but i need some kind of fuel economy

 

That should be an E4OD transmission, and its a diesel specific bolt pattern, so won't work with any gas engines.

Whats wrong with the 7.3?

 

after new head gaskets were put on it, it is dumping water in the oil and has never been started, so no pressure has built in the cooling system

 

and the cost of diesel fuel is going nuts again, and the cost of replacing the engine is nuts too, i cant even find a rebuildable core for less than 500 bucks then all the money it takes to build it and get it together is just plain nuts, i like diesels but the cost is getting dumb

 

Fireman, what part of the US of A or Canada you located at? There are all kinds of people here with a line on engines.

 

i am in indiana, 45 min south of indianapolis

 

Well, for one, there is a 6.9 diesel on E-bay listed for $750. In Michigan. Bad oil cooler, but if your's on the 7.3 is good, it is a direct swap.

 

Your problem might also be bad oil cooler O rings.

Were the head gaskets changed because of water in the oil?

 

exactly what i was going to say dave, could also be a corroded intake valley pan gasket, as i so richly learned when changing mine hahaha.

 

Yank the cylinder heads. Block off coolant passages (I try to use something like a steel strip with an old inner tube chunk, held down by bolts in the head-bolt holes. Hard to describe without being there.) Plug lower radiator hose, fill block with as hot water as possible, put about 15 lbs. pressure in upper radiator hose (after draining oil) and look to see if water is coming out of oil drain hole. This would indicate a bad block (cavitation or cracked) Have heads checked for cracks if block holds pressure. About 3-6 hours to check a block this way, other than being a pain-in-the-rear from the heavy cylinder heads and wrestling them around. Plus, making some steel strips to hold the rubber in place.
Done it several times, just not on a 6.9 or 7.3 block.

 

theres a 6.9 on CL here for 350. Lima Ohio listing.

 

Make an air hose adapter that screws into a glow plug hole.
Now fill the radiator completely full of water.

Remove a glow plug and put shop air pressure in a cylinder, watch the water in the radiator.

If there are no bubbles or the water level does not raise, move to the next cylinder.
CAUTION, the engine will turn over till that piston is at BDC when you apply air, so expect that and watch your air hose and fingers are not near the belts when you put the air pressure to each cylinder.

If the intake or exhaust valve is open, you may not get the engine to roll to BDC.
Pull the rocker covers and loosen the rockers will have all of the valves closed and make this test faster.

If you do all of the cylinders and do not have water level increasing or bubbles in the radiator, suspect the oil cooler O rings next.

If you do have rising water when air is applied to a cylinder, you now know exactly where to focus your attention whan you pull a head.

PS with the piston at BDC, you are testing the head, head gasket, piston and the complete cylinder wall.
So cracked blocks, cracked heads, blown head gaskets and cavitation all show up with this test.