Also he had the timing advanced 20 degrees and thats without properly unplugging the spout when he did this. would that really screw the motor up? and where is the spout located so i can check tonight. im gonna have him reset the timing and see that he properly does it this time. hes pretty fed up with my truck cause its been there three times and he just isnt getting anywhere so i feel like hes at the point where he just wants to half a** things and get it out of there.

 

I can't say if it will cure all your problems, but it's definitely a problem if he's trying to adjust it with the spout hooked up. Be prepared for it not to even run at all if he unplugs the spout to set it, it might be that far off now.

There should be a group of wires leaving the distributor. In these wires one will be one sort of by-itself, and as you follow it along, it will have a single connector in it, or it will have a funny looking jumper connector in it. Unplug this, and it will release the computer control. Then you can set it by the sticker on the radiator. I believe the wire is a yellow/lightgreen wire.

Like I said this might not fix your problem totally, but it will be one problem eliminated. This happens all the time where I work. You end up messing up the machine worse then when you started, trying to fix the original problem.

 

Where are you located?

 

just talked to him and he said the spout was unplugged so i guess i missed that. i really dont know where to go from here. the oil is just rich with gasoline so i dont think driving it with the sensor unplugged will be too good for it. it also runs better with the vaccum line for the MAP sensor unplugged. it was throwing a MAP code at one point but we replaced it and it changed nothing. i would like to find out why i have two dead cylinders yet there both getting fuel and spark maybe valves? it seems like the more we work on it the worse it gets. my fuel tank also isnt venting if that changes anything. and somehow air was getting into my fuel rail. i really appreciate all the help you all have been offering i would hate to have to give up and carburate it.

 

Cinnaminson NJ

 

Too far away to be able to actually see the truck....are you absolutely positive you've checked all the grounds I mentioned earlier, including the little orange wire that connects to the back of the lower intake manifold? The only toher thing I can think of right now is, with the engine running but cold, check the voltage at the light green/yellow wire going into pin 7 at the computer. Does your mechanic buddy have a breakout box? It would nake this a whole lot easier.

 

One other thought after reading through the thread again....when you checked for fuel pressure, did you use a gauge on the schrader valve? And did you just check the pressure at idle, or did you also check it under a load? If you didn't, go back and try that and see what you get.

 

we checked it at idle and under load. it was good all the way through. im going over soon to check all the wires again the trucks at my girlfriends and were getting and ice storm so im sure ill be having a great time. maybe my mechanic will let me bring it over. (doubt it)

 

so i re-checked all the grounds you guys mentioned and still nothing. the black and green ground that goes directly to the battery had a bad splice in it so i re-did that but still dont see a change but im guesing i wont see any changes till the motors back to spec, its still advanced 20 degrees and the throttle bodies tweaked. i also have a question. could it be possible that the TPS i put in needs to be adjusted? and if it did could it cause all this havoc on my motor?

 

Not really likely on the TPS....they're generally made with little room for adjustment. Did you do the voltage check on pin 7 that I asked about earlier?

 

no i didnt. mechanic screwed me over last night. ill try again this weekend.

 

So Still havent gotten around to cehcking the EEC connections but we set everything back to there proper settings. still arent getting anywhere how am i supposed to check this pin if i do it myself ?

 

Hey....sorry it took a few days to get back to you....been a bit busy here.

The easiest way to measure voltage at any pin is with breakout box, but if you don't have access to one, you should be able to leave the EEC connected, but remove it from it's bracket under the dash and lay it out by the floor. On the connector to the EEC there is a plastic cover that slides on and is held in place by four tabs. Juts raise the tabs and slide the cover off. Once the cover is off, you'll be able to move the wires around some....just spread them enough to isolate the number 7 pin (light green/yellow wire)....it'll be easy since that pin is on the outside. You should have enough room to get the red probe from a voltmeter to make contact with the pin from the outside. If you can't make contact, pierce the wire with a straight pin and measure with the red probe from that. With the truck cold, Ground the black probe from the voltmeter to the EEC case, and take a reading. You should have about 4 volts, and that number should get lower as the truck gets warmer.

 

Thank you for the information, my mechanic wants to verify wether i have dropped valves before he continues testing but he hasnt been to excited to do much testing lately. Ive got the map vacuum line unplugged right now and it runs pretty good like that still rich but i can move the truck around and its got power.

 

Which vacuum line? To the MAP sensor?