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Was diggin around under the hood today, cleaning off the top of the manifold so I can check for a vacuum leak tomorrow and noticed there's a heated spacer under my carb with two hoses on it. Don't remember this on my old 69 F100, 30+ years ago, but current truck is 69 F250 also with 360. What purpose does it serve?
Been busy updating the old blue F250 that I posted about earlier. New timing set and water pump, Holley 2brl carb and some interior work. Rediscoverd the spare fluids compartment above the passenger side rear cab corner, and found I can open my bedside toolbox with the BFS key...big friggin screwdriver. Got it stocked with necessarys.
Anyone know a source other than LMC or Carpenter for the dog dish hubcaps for our trucks? Seen some on schmebay lately.
That spacer came on all trucks of that era AFAIK, Bill may say different if 3 didn't. The hoses were routed with the heater hose loop. They used manual chokes back then, I suspect it had mostly to do with that.
So, if it is linked/related to my vacuum leak...which ruins my idle in gear, can I just trash the spacer and replace it with a phenolic spacer from a parts store? I'm in Texas, so Great White North winters and temps aren't a problem.
If it's vacuum leak related, you can always clean it up and add new gaskets.
Wasn't this smog related???
If you trash the thing, you certainly wouldn't be the first one to do it (Ahem).
You guys still in Ca, wouldn't you need this as one of the factory items to keep it passing smog certifications?
I was always told that in CA even on the old VW's that you needed the stock air cleaner and all associated heat riser parts to keep smog cert. in place. Was I misinformed?
anything pre 73 is smog exempt . so we are free to put a blower on these if we want ..
did you track the vacumn leak? with the engine running take some carb spray or wd 40 and spray around where you think the leak is . when the idle increases you found the vacumn leak .
i removed my spacer with the hoses and put a phenolic spacer inbetween for the benefit of cleaning up the engine
bay and gaining some throttle response. i think the purpose it serves is like airplanes it prevents carburetor icing due to the extreme cold that happens when you move that much air in a certain period of time with a difference in pressure/vacuum. kindof like how the neck of a blow torch gets frosty. cause temperature, air volume, air density and all that jazz are all relative and have an effect on one another.
Here in Ca. anything '75 and older is exempt from smog checks.
My '68 had this setup, I removed it when I changed to the Edelbrock carb and intake combo. Even though I live in the northern part of the state where temps can dip into the teens and 20s in the winter, I haven't noticed any difficulties in the truck warming up normally. It's very drivable right off the bat.
I just worked on a '70 that was bone stock and original, it too had this setup including the rear hose from the spacer looped back around and up over the choke housing. There's even a bracket to hold the hose right against the choke spring housing. There's no heat riser tube and no other way that I can see for heat to get to the choke to open it as the engine warms, so that must be it. An interesting solution...
TIGER DAN how much of a power increase you get from the carb and manifold change out ? i assume 4bl also what intake a performer or ?? i just read the 172hp for the 360 and figured the 2bl carb is probably robbing a lot of hp .
where in n ca , i am in the av valley
Yes, the Performer intake and carb. The Performer intake adds virtually no power over a stock cast iron 4 bbl. intake, it just saves a bunch of weight and looks purty... I went with a 600 CFM carb, but in retrospect I think it's too much for a stock motor and the 500 CFM would have been a better choice. I've bolted a Holley 465 CFM on just to try it out and the difference was amazing, It pulled really hard and revved quicker, though I don't know how it would work on full throttle towing and such, it might not be enough in that case. I had to take it back off due to some problems with it, but will try it again when I get it sorted out.
And I'm in the hills about two hours north of the SF Bay Area.
explain please ? going from stock 2v to after market 4v should give me some hp , right ? or are these old fe engines garbage and i should invest in a roller 351 swap ?
explain please ? going from stock 2v to after market 4v should give me some hp , right ? or are these old fe engines garbage and i should invest in a roller 351 swap ?
Going to the 4v intake and carb will wake up the 360, but it's not a 390. The FE motor is a hoss, but a different motor than the 351 (presuming Windor). The rpm range and torque curves are different...