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Well here is my new toy. Probably going to use it to convert the 80 F100 into a 4x4. Both are manual trucks. Here is the scoop on it. 1986 F150 4x4 4spd 5.0L. It has major rust!! No brakes and bad motor. The rear axel pinion seal leaks and it has auto hubs up front. The rear has a factory sway bar. Not sure on to much else. I will get more pics up soon. I will try to rebuild both axels ect. My question is can I convert the auto hubs to manual locking ones? I'ld realy rather have those. So far the truck cost $500. Truck was $300, trailer rental $73, gas $100, replace cumalong I broke $30. I think it's not a bad deal yet.
Here is the truck it is all going on. Not much better but it is. Lol
Auto hubs can be converted to manual pretty easy. Count the torx head screws holding them in. 5 screws, just need the manual hubs. 3 screws, will also need the conversion kit. I'm not sure when the change was made, but most 86 and older trucks would likely have the older 5 screw auto hubs.
More pics!!! Not much to see, I did find a useable crescent wrench!! If you click on the pics it makes them bigger in another window. Anyways it was made in Canada. Interesting...... Also if anyone was able to decode that would be great if you could post the info. I looked at the postings on this site. All i can figure out is the rear is a 3.50 ratio. not sure if it's a limitted slip or not. I am new to the decodeing and would love to learn how to do it.
whats rusted on your donor truck ? look at your frame on the 1980 and see if it is a Swiss cheese frame ( frame with holes in it from factory ) the first couple of years in the 80s the frames were junk as ford tried to save weight and made the frames lighter by putting round holes down the sides ! not sure if all models had that type of frame !
All 1980 model, and some early 1981 models, had the "swiss cheese" frame. F100 thru F350. The general concensus is this type of frame does not have structural strength issues when it comes to load carrying capacity. It does show a weakness during an accident impact, though.
whats rusted on your donor truck ? look at your frame on the 1980 and see if it is a Swiss cheese frame ( frame with holes in it from factory ) the first couple of years in the 80s the frames were junk as ford tried to save weight and made the frames lighter by putting round holes down the sides ! not sure if all models had that type of frame !
The donor truck has a bad body. Floor boards are gone & alot of the frame has that muddy/rust to it. it was used as a farm truck. so it has had a rough life. I will inspect it more when it gets warmer. Right now both trucks are sitting and can wait till spring. My 80 I belive is not the infamous Swiss cheese. Alot on the donor is rusty. I'm still going back and forth on a cab swap.... Then I need to figur out for leaglity reasons if the tittle and ins goes by frame or body vin? the 80 is in my name and thisone has a clear tittle. So I will be making a call to the DMV.
Great news!!!! The truck RUNS!!!! It has 1 rod knocking & no brakes. The 4x4 works!!!! The front calipers were frozen and I had to put it in 4x4 to get it to move. The more I think about it I want to keep it fuel injected. So I need to decide if I want to maybe switch to a newer cab with the newer style. I'm not a fan of how this one is set up. So I have a lot to learn. Any sugestions, tips or help is great. I think I will use the 68 5.0L I have just chang the intakes for now. Make it a running project. I know the harmonics of the motors are different. I just hope the T18 clutch and flywheel I have now will work. Seeing as they both have maybe 1k miles on them.
I think for now I will just patch the floor boards with sheet metal and drive it. I want to keep it as close to original look as I can. I too like the blue interior. I do however want to keep it the same color and pin striping. I realy like it!! I know this may take a few years to do but hey that's why they are projects. Lol I want it to look nice yet not be a show truck. Built strong yet still could serve as a daily driver. As for the 80, well I'm not sure what I'll do with it. Use it as a beater or sell it. I know it need a lot of work as well. I will have to decide this spring until then it's research time for both trucks!!!
The flywheel from the 86 5.0 won't work on the 68 5.0. It will physically bolt on, but is not balanced correctly. The 302/351W is an externally balanced engine, and the 302 balance weight was changed around 79/80.
Also, I don't think you can use the early motor with the factory EFI, without causing issues.
I wonder what issues it'll cause. I like the idea of fuel injection for winter starts ect. If I was to run a carburator would i need to change the wiring harrness?? Looks like I better get into the tech section and start my searching. I may go 351W or I do have a early 90s 5.0 HO from a Thunderbird. That may be another option.
whats rusted on your donor truck ? look at your frame on the 1980 and see if it is a Swiss cheese frame ( frame with holes in it from factory ) the first couple of years in the 80s the frames were junk as ford tried to save weight and made the frames lighter by putting round holes down the sides ! not sure if all models had that type of frame !
How dare you come on a Ford forum and say Ford made junk at one point!!! I tried doing that on a thread and a firestorm of hatred was unleashed on me. Oh, the horror!!!! LOL!
Great news!!!! The truck RUNS!!!! It has 1 rod knocking & no brakes. The 4x4 works!!!! The front calipers were frozen and I had to put it in 4x4 to get it to move. The more I think about it I want to keep it fuel injected. So I need to decide if I want to maybe switch to a newer cab with the newer style. I'm not a fan of how this one is set up. So I have a lot to learn. Any sugestions, tips or help is great. I think I will use the 68 5.0L I have just chang the intakes for now. Make it a running project. I know the harmonics of the motors are different. I just hope the T18 clutch and flywheel I have now will work. Seeing as they both have maybe 1k miles on them.
Good deal. It might be easier to stick with that frame and drivetrain and build your truck from there.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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