Another EGR Nightmare
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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Another EGR Nightmare
99 F250 w/5.4 206k.
Again another 401 code. Checked egr port. Clean as a whistle. Down tube
same thing. Looks almost new. Egr holds vacuum and diaphram works. Replaced the DPFE with motorcraft . No luck. I have about 30 ohms on the vacuum solenoid. I also noticed that at normal op. temp. I have about 8" of vacuum for about 3 seconds and then again for about 3 seconds moments later. Then nothing all the way home , about 3 miles. Should I have had vacuum for a longer period of time or is that how the egr system works. (intermittently) Could I have a bad solenoid? Or is this a signal problem? I plan on going at it again tomorrow and check that solenoid over good but thought some suggestions from you guys could help. Getting old really fast. Need to pass inspection before the 8th of Feb. Thanks
Again another 401 code. Checked egr port. Clean as a whistle. Down tube
same thing. Looks almost new. Egr holds vacuum and diaphram works. Replaced the DPFE with motorcraft . No luck. I have about 30 ohms on the vacuum solenoid. I also noticed that at normal op. temp. I have about 8" of vacuum for about 3 seconds and then again for about 3 seconds moments later. Then nothing all the way home , about 3 miles. Should I have had vacuum for a longer period of time or is that how the egr system works. (intermittently) Could I have a bad solenoid? Or is this a signal problem? I plan on going at it again tomorrow and check that solenoid over good but thought some suggestions from you guys could help. Getting old really fast. Need to pass inspection before the 8th of Feb. Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2010
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You can first check the basic function of the EGR valve and down pipe, by supplying your own vacuum source, and bypassing the solenoid. Use low vacuum like 8-10 inches. With the truck running, in park or neutral, adding the vacuum to the EGR vac port should stall the engine or cause it to run really rough. If so, the problem is upstream from the EGR valve itself.
Voltage to the solenoid should be battery voltage. Unplugging the harness from the DPFE, voltage should be 4-6 v. With the engine cold, and the harness back on the DPFE, carefully using straight pins, pushed into the harness connector from the outside, into the center and I think the top contacts, start the truck. At idle, and cold, volts should be less than 1v, voltage will rise as the engine warms up, to a reading similar to the 4-6v out of the solenoid. All this will do is tell you if the DPFE is working. If the problem is with the solenoid, the system still won't work right.
I'd check all the vacuum lines for cracks/splits, especially the 2 rubber ones from the DPFE to the down pipe. Maybe a harness issue at the solenoid.
Dave
Voltage to the solenoid should be battery voltage. Unplugging the harness from the DPFE, voltage should be 4-6 v. With the engine cold, and the harness back on the DPFE, carefully using straight pins, pushed into the harness connector from the outside, into the center and I think the top contacts, start the truck. At idle, and cold, volts should be less than 1v, voltage will rise as the engine warms up, to a reading similar to the 4-6v out of the solenoid. All this will do is tell you if the DPFE is working. If the problem is with the solenoid, the system still won't work right.
I'd check all the vacuum lines for cracks/splits, especially the 2 rubber ones from the DPFE to the down pipe. Maybe a harness issue at the solenoid.
Dave
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