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hey ya'll its been awhile but got a wierd issue here. I just bought new glowplugs (motorcraft) and put them in, as well as two brand new 800 cca batteries. My plugs are hooked up to a toggle switch, but even if i burn em' for 10-12 seconds she still dosnt want to start. I know my batteries and termanals are good cause it almost sounds like it idleing when im turning it over but even after 30 seconds of cranking she wont start. So I waitd for a few hours to make sure the plugs were cooled of, gave it a lil sniff of ether like I always have and she fired right up. I know the glow plugs are working cause i tested each one and the connector with a test light and they work. Sorry for all the run on sentances but its late and its been a long day.
Have you verified voltage at the plugs? Were the old plugs working before you put the new ones in? Also, the plugs cool off very quick, I glow mine for 15 seconds then I cranjk for 5-10 seconds then I give them another 5-10 seconds glow and then she fires instantly, this is in weather near 0F last few days...
NO ETHER! I cant tell enough people what it does to these IDI engines. WIll blow them up in no time. I third the idea of no power at the glow plugs, have you checked the glow plug relay? You can have that Tested if you want at an O'reilly Auto parts store....they are good for testing all your stuff, altenators, starters, batteries ect ect.
You can safelly use Ether on these.... I used it countless times on my 7.3 in the past 20 years, didn't harm it one bit! And I never disconnected the glow plugs....
Just have someone cycle the plugs (if they work), when the light goes out, wait another 15 seconds before cranking, then let the person crank it a few seconds, and while it's cranking, give 'er a lil shot at the END of the air breather assembly, like where the hood closes and it should pop right off, always has for me. If it doesn't, try it one more time, and if it still doesn't want to fire, LET IT BE!
As for the posters problem, when the Wait To Start light goes out, do you hear clicking?
If you don't, your controller/relay is gone. Or could be a simple bad connection.
That '86 will have the older style controller witch is said to be garbage and impossible to replace without breaking something. It screws into the coolant jacket on the driver side of the block on top at the back.
It be best to convert to manual glow plugs, or if you really wanna keep the auto-preheat, update the system with a 87+ solid state controller.
Ive been using ether to start it for the better part of a year now and havnt had any problem with it, just having to get out and open the hood gets pretty old. Using the test light method i tested all the old glow plugs and they were all bad as far as i could tell. After I put in the new ones they all tested good, The po set up a manual switch so the relay isnt hooked up. Geuss ill have to find a mulimeter and see what im getting at the plugs? how many volts should i be getting. Thanks for all the replys
the relay should still be hooked up with the push button, otherwise you would have full battery power going into the cab and switch. one push of the button, and it would smoke in your hands with 200+ amps going through it.
You can safelly use Ether on these.... I used it countless times on my 7.3 in the past 20 years, didn't harm it one bit! And I never disconnected the glow plugs....
Just have someone cycle the plugs (if they work), when the light goes out, wait another 15 seconds before cranking, then let the person crank it a few seconds, and while it's cranking, give 'er a lil shot at the END of the air breather assembly, like where the hood closes and it should pop right off, always has for me. If it doesn't, try it one more time, and if it still doesn't want to fire, LET IT BE!
As for the posters problem, when the Wait To Start light goes out, do you hear clicking?
If you don't, your controller/relay is gone. Or could be a simple bad connection.
That '86 will have the older style controller witch is said to be garbage and impossible to replace without breaking something. It screws into the coolant jacket on the driver side of the block on top at the back.
It be best to convert to manual glow plugs, or if you really wanna keep the auto-preheat, update the system with a 87+ solid state controller.
Not to question your knowledge John but i have seen people use ether correctly like you stated and the air cleaner assembly itself caught fire. Scared the living crap outta me, hence why i dont use ether.