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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #16  
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there isnt any fluid left in the block...the truck ran for 20 minutes this morning, all that melted and got blown out the top hose. its all over the bottom of the hood, radiator, battery...
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 11:54 AM
  #17  
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alright, got the whole system flushed completely. Picked up new thermostat (the one it had in it was fine, but it was a 180 degree thermostat...that explains why the heat sucks), new gasket (didnt even have a gasket on it), and 50 / 50 premixed antifreeze.

So guess what? When i put the thermostat back in, the housing snapped! I tell you what, I bought this truck for 600 bucks, and ive put 600 in it since! at this rate< everything is gonna be new on it in six months!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #18  
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Don't feel bad, back in the summer I was changing a tstat on a buddy's Bronco and one of the bolts snapped off in the aluminum intake. It can always be worse. If it hadn't snapped now, it probably would have some day while driving nowhere near your house and tools. If that is your only problem after freezing up, you're pretty lucky.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #19  
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ya, thats true...i was able to find a water outlet locally...well, not too locally, but not too far.

and i dont go anywhere without my toolbox! this truck is in pretty good shape overall considering its age and no one has really bothered to fix what issues it has. So these kind of things are a bit expected. The bed is coming off next month for body work and painting, and to fix all the issues it has from the cab back. One of the shock mounts on the frame rail has busted off, so it only has one shock on the rear. The gas tank is new, but they put the wrong gas line back in, so it leaks a bit of gas. All the wiring at the rear needs replaced. the e-brake is all jacked up, and i need to get that fixed...im tired of chocking the wheels each time i stop on an incline. The rear end is in good shape though! Dont get me started about the issues under the hood!

This is gonna be one hell of a truck when im done, but unfortunately, its also my daily driver at the moment, so it has to run!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #20  
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Yeah I realize I am late to the game but what you are discribing is not uncommon to see when temperatures drop below normal for an area or if the vehicle has not been properly winterized.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 01:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by raytasch
Yeah I realize I am late to the game but what you are discribing is not uncommon to see when temperatures drop below normal for an area or if the vehicle has not been properly winterized.
ya, i should have checked it. just didnt really think about it since the heat was working fine in our "normal" winter weather here....
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #22  
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600 invested and 600 in isnt to bad for a vehicle as old as these are. glad u got her squared away man and the new plans sound SOLID!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #23  
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ya man, i love this truck. I have never owned a truck before, always gone with the sports cars, but i wont sell this thing for anything. Just gotta put in the wrench time, and its gonna be a good solid truck that will last me for years!

off topic, but how the heck to i get the pic of my truck to be my "avatar"?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by irlfan360
So guess what? When i put the thermostat back in, the housing snapped! I tell you what, I bought this truck for 600 bucks, and ive put 600 in it since! at this rate< everything is gonna be new on it in six months!

Sounds like someone either didn't know their own strength or didn't torque down both bolts in equal lengths. But not an expensive fix...shoulda been under $15 for that housing.


As for the $600...depending on the condition of the vehicle (typically drivers), I always plan on spending 500-1500 over the first 6 months of ownership. A $1000 rig, I'd probably plan on spending $1500...on a $3,000 truck, probably $500. They don't always use it, and that's just gravy, but keep I keep the cash accessible until I feel I've properly assessed the vehicle. You gotta pay to play, either do it up front with better rig, or do it on the back end fixing a cheaper rig.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 704 dentside man
Sounds like someone either didn't know their own strength or didn't torque down both bolts in equal lengths. But not an expensive fix...shoulda been under $15 for that housing.


As for the $600...depending on the condition of the vehicle (typically drivers), I always plan on spending 500-1500 over the first 6 months of ownership. A $1000 rig, I'd probably plan on spending $1500...on a $3,000 truck, probably $500. They don't always use it, and that's just gravy, but keep I keep the cash accessible until I feel I've properly assessed the vehicle. You gotta pay to play, either do it up front with better rig, or do it on the back end fixing a cheaper rig.
oh, its not the $$$...its the chain effect thats happening. First, when i bought the truck, the shift collar was broken. So i had to reach into a little hole cut in the floor to shift the gears by hand. Fixed that. Then the clutch went out. Fixed that. Then the rear u joint went bad. Fixed that. Then the truck wouldnt start. Fixed that (after many many many hours of trying different things, unwrapping wires looking for a short, replacing battery cable, replacing starter and solenoid, replacing fusible link wire). Then the voltage regulator fried. Fixed that. Now the cooling issue. Fixing that. Its just that it has all happened in the last 3 weeks!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #26  
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Sounds like you got one that hadn't been driven in a while. The worst thing anyone can do to a used vehicle is let it sit. Don't be surprised if you start having issues with the brake system next. It would have been nice if all the problem was was a stuck thermostat. It seems strange to me that the fluid in the radiator was frozen solid, but the fluid in the block wasn't.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by irlfan360
oh, its not the $$$...its the chain effect thats happening.
Don't get me wrong, I wasn't trying to insinuate money was the problem, just that I learned a long time ago, to set some coin aside for the sure to come problems. Hell, I've been known to purchase basket cases, because most of the fun is building/fixing the rig...IMO.

Originally Posted by Rico47635
Sounds like you got one that hadn't been driven in a while.
I'm thinking ambient engine temp warmed up the stuff in the block, while the stuff in the radiator was out front taking the brunt of a 45mph wind (or whatever the rate of speed was), and didn't have anything to heat up the stuff that more than likely froze over night.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 03:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rico47635
Sounds like you got one that hadn't been driven in a while. The worst thing anyone can do to a used vehicle is let it sit. Don't be surprised if you start having issues with the brake system next. It would have been nice if all the problem was was a stuck thermostat. It seems strange to me that the fluid in the radiator was frozen solid, but the fluid in the block wasn't.
He drove the truck.............I'm sure what was in the block thawed out while it was running. It would take a while to freeze back up solid. While running it would be dumping the warm coolant into the top of the frozen radiator from the upper radiator hose and with no place to go would blow it out of the overflow. Heat rises so theres no way it would thaw the radiator out as quick as the block...........
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 03:35 PM
  #29  
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When I flushed it, the liquid was just about perfectly clear...just a hint of green. Thinking that the previous owner only ran the truck in summer, thus the 180 degree thermostat and almost water radiator fluid....just a guess, but that's probably it.

And I didn't take offense to your post....but I gotta say, it sucks having all these issues in this cold a## weather!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #30  
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The rad usually freezes before the block due to it's relative exposure to the cold compared to the block. The cast iron kind of acts like an insulator. Also the block was probably slushy but melted when the engine was running but the rad would have stayed frozen as there is no heat to melt it. I would take the rad out and take it in the house to let it defrost in the bath tub (sorry wife or mom or ....). Then put the rad back in and fill with a good 75/25 mix of coolant. Remember, the coolant strength is not only for winter freezing but for summer cooling. The stronger the mixture the higher the boiling point as well as the lower the freeze point.

Good luck.
 
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