Need fabrication input...
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
If you get a good set of bits and do pilot holes it is not that bad. Not fun mind you but not bad lol. I drilled out about 64 rivots on mine (between the 2 trucks) when I swapped in the diesel and suspension. Just make sure the drill is running in the right direction, just ask my stepson. After about 20 minutes of drilling I finally took the drill away from him lol! I will never let him live that one down.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Western North Carolina
otah if you decide on the drilled mounting holes (I would - as a semi-pro welder I can relate about problems with a welded hitch) you should try to find a 'step drill bit', goes in 1/16th increments up to 13/16 (and beyond but the larger sizes are pricey $$) use plenty of lube and grade 8 bolts and keep them TIGHT.
as said before the frames are not mild steel but actuially closer to med-carbon and react adversly to welding. it can be done however with lots of post weld heat and peening with pnuematic needle gun.
and thanks for your help with my ques about wireing. Tom.
as said before the frames are not mild steel but actuially closer to med-carbon and react adversly to welding. it can be done however with lots of post weld heat and peening with pnuematic needle gun.
and thanks for your help with my ques about wireing. Tom.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
I'll second Tom on the step drills. They work really well. Depending on the material you're drilling, they may not make it through all the way, but you can go from the other side to meet, or finish up with a regular bit.
I've found that they actually work better than regular bits a good part of the time. And they are also shorter than a regular bit, which can really help when you're working in the tight confines under a truck. Usually I just spread a little used motor oil on it for lube. Repeat every now and then to keep it from heating up too much.
I've been using a set from Harbor Freight for a couple years. I'm actually surprised how well its held up for what it cost. And believe me, I've a abused the hell out of it! Harbor Freight has a few different option in either single bits or combos of 2 or 3. They are often on sale for like $10 to $15.
I've found that they actually work better than regular bits a good part of the time. And they are also shorter than a regular bit, which can really help when you're working in the tight confines under a truck. Usually I just spread a little used motor oil on it for lube. Repeat every now and then to keep it from heating up too much.
I've been using a set from Harbor Freight for a couple years. I'm actually surprised how well its held up for what it cost. And believe me, I've a abused the hell out of it! Harbor Freight has a few different option in either single bits or combos of 2 or 3. They are often on sale for like $10 to $15.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
Tecgod13, them be the bits you mention:
2 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drills
3 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drills
And they got stepless ones now too, kinda wanna try those, they should work pretty darn nice:
3 Piece Stepless Drill Bits
2 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drills
3 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drills
And they got stepless ones now too, kinda wanna try those, they should work pretty darn nice:
3 Piece Stepless Drill Bits
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
Let me know how them bits work out for you, I don't do much heavy fab work these days but still would be nice to have them tools for that one time that I get some crazy order again.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
We've got a set at work but i think you need a pilot hole for them. I was readying the reviews for the 3 bit step set and the seemed to have really positive reviews, one guys said he used his to drill into frame rails....
I'll give them a shot...
I'll give them a shot...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
A pilot hole isn't required, but it does help keep the bit from wandering, and makes it go faster. I'll usually drill a 1/8" hole as a pilot, and go with the step bit from there.
The stepless ones would work well for sheetmetal work, but I think they would really choke up on anything thicker.
The stepless ones would work well for sheetmetal work, but I think they would really choke up on anything thicker.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
They larger one we have at work does require a 1/2" starter hole... 
The harbor freight ones i got do not require a pilot hole... I'll report back on how well they work in the frame....or if i trash them on the first hole...
The harbor freight ones i got do not require a pilot hole... I'll report back on how well they work in the frame....or if i trash them on the first hole...
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 672
Likes: 54
your monuts to the frame are exactly the same mine uses. I have 5 1/2" bolts to the frame each side. Mine uses 1/2" plate for the frame to bumber mounts. My dad had a machine/fab shop so the material wanst an issue.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
On drilling holes in the frame, I had to drill holes in my frame when I mounted my hitch. 1/2 inch black and decker drill with whatever size drill bit I had, I dont remember any more. I got each hole started a little bit, enough to keep the drill on course. Then I wedged the drill btwn a floor jack and the frame. Apply a small amount of the pressure with the jack and squeeze the trigger on the drill and just let it do its thing. Worked great, and I was WAAAAY less tired at the end, than I would have been doing it any other way.
Note: Its very important to make sure your drill is wedged in strait up and down, I can imagine bad things happening if it wasnt. Also, only apply pressure very gradually to avoid breaking the drill or the bit. I wouldnt suggest doing this with a very valuable drill, but it beats the hell out of laying on your back under the truck trying to mandle the drill and keep the metal shavings, dust, dirt, and rust out of your face.
Note: Its very important to make sure your drill is wedged in strait up and down, I can imagine bad things happening if it wasnt. Also, only apply pressure very gradually to avoid breaking the drill or the bit. I wouldnt suggest doing this with a very valuable drill, but it beats the hell out of laying on your back under the truck trying to mandle the drill and keep the metal shavings, dust, dirt, and rust out of your face.