I got my ZF for $100 with crossmember, T/C and all the sticks, hump, linkage and boots.
The flywheel from my T-19 won't fit nor will the clutch.
That all was about another $250.

....So mine cost about $350 as well.

With 4.10's and stock tires I am really enjoying the more relaxed pace on the highway.


http://www.baumannengineering.com/e4odinf.htm

Fresh E4OD= $1800, Bauminator= $400, plus core and installation=???
It seems a lot more than you or I laid out for our overdrive gearboxes.

 

That being said, I would avoid the following:

Trucks that will have to pull a load (lug the engine) don't need the drag race treatment when it comes to ignition timing. In the case of adding timing and removing the EGR system, the result would be severe detonation which will damage the engine. Broken rings, cracked/broken piston skirts, burnt valves etc can all result. The Holley carb swap is another popular move but again, if you tow with the truck the power valve selection is critical to prevent a high-load part-throttle lean condition. There was a reason Ford used the two stage power valve in the stock Holley.

Your best advice:

My two Cents: have a close look at what you've got. Do a compression test, do a cylinder leak down test. Look at the slop in the timing chain as mentioned. Look for leaks in the cooling and lubrication systems; temperature and pressures in these system OK? These steps will help you gauge the condition of the engine and decide how far you want to go with it. Hap-hazardly pulling emission equipment often times results in an engine that runs worse. Resist the urge to "modify it", these trucks ran great when new and can run the same now if everything is working correctly.

An exhaust system is a fairly easy bolt on that will net both mileage and performance gains. I have a $300 Flowmaster mandrel bent cat-back single exhaust system on my 460. The new exhaust realized a gain of about 1.5 mpg on the highway over the old factory installed system; money well sent in my book. And it sounds good too...

 

I regularly tow 5000 lbs with my 6000 lbs F-350. My timing curve is optimized for the highest octane fuel available (93) and the load I pull. I have as much initial and as quick and advance rate as it'll take. Any more buffer than I have (2*) is leaving MPG and power on the table. Maybe that's fine for some folks, but not for me. I want every bit of power and MPG I can get out of my truck.Also worth noting my 460 is not a stock 7.5:1 smogger 460, it's 9.7:1 with a mild 262/270 cam that puts dynamic on the ragged edge. I would have built a little more buffer room into compression ratio but I couldn't given the available off the shelf parts. Custom pistons are expensive, and going too much more on the cam kills low end torque.



Good advice, but I would consider a straight up double roller chain as mandatory. No reason not to do it. For $40 it makes a big difference, even if that's the only thing done to the truck. Beyond that, these trucks most certainly did not run great when new. They were anemic. Just look at the heads. The exhaust ports are terrible and a huge restriction. Cheap and easy power with a little port work.


Funny you don't show what's at the front of that exhaust system. I see a small pipe going out to split into duals. Big restriction there. Flowmaster is a terribly restrictive muffler. They're made for sound, not performance. Honestly you'd be as well off or better with a generic turbo muffler, and money ahead. You still have stock logs and a factory cat. I won't lie, I honestly don't believe your 1.5 MPG claim. How was this measured before and after? Over how many tanks of gas? Unless something was terribly terribly wrong, you're not going to see 1.5 MPG increase while leaving your most restrictive part of the exhaust in place.

Those logs are terribly restrictive. Headers to duals will help, anything less is negligible. Ideally you need to fix the as-cast exhaust ports in those smogger heads as that's your real hindrance to MPG and power.

 

Well at least you can find a pair of headers for an automatic-4x4 application, not so for a standard with a transfer case...

The OP had asked about a tune up, not performance modifications.

It is my opinion that proper ignition and cam timing is critical.
Those plastic gears wear out, and are a huge factor in poor economy and power IME.
It's a fact that pre-emissions cam timing is highly advantageous for lugging around a heavy trailer but that might not be so obvious to someone not familiar with the 385 series history.

I had no idea that a F-250 4x4 would even have cats... perhaps if the GVW is under 8600#.

I asked what the OP's intended use was because I wanted an idea which way to go with any advice I might offer.
Now that he has stated that he fixes cars for charity I understand that he has at least a better than average grasp of mechanics and tuning.
I don't think he wants to get into the shortblock, just have a strong reliable tow vehicle.

To him I offer, DO the timing chain, and carefully check the water pump backing plate and faces of the timing case where the water passages are.
A leak there will fill the crankcase with coolant and ruin your day.

IMO the simplest 'performance' increase to be found is to get some more compression and quench with a set of pistons.
This era's combustion chambers aren't the best, but much better than the '72-3 head version.

 

I have long tubes on my '86 w/ 460 ZF5 and NP208. Fit like a glove. Summit lists 8 different headers for an '86 F-350 4x4 460 manual. Starts at $190. I call that affordable and easy to find. The only tough thing is headers for the above truck with a NP205 case. I need to make a decision soon and pick whatever one will be easiest to modify for a 205 case.


I've seen them from time to time. most trucks I've seen under 8800 gvwr had cats (though not many F-250 were the lighter duty ones), and most trucks I've seen from California had cats.

Better than D2 heads, but so far as I cna tell they're essentially ide ntical to D3VE heads. I assume we're talking about E6TE heads here. Getting more compression into the motor is great for performance. KB137 is a cheap off the shelf piston that will work, just be careful on the tune at they're hyper. You'd be better on a tow pig to spend the money for forged (cheap insurance).

To take advantage of the extra compression you'll want a cam with a little more overlap. Make sure you shoot for a suitable dynamic compression ratio to avoid detonation on your intended octane. With more compression and cam, porting the heads and a set of headers will round out teh package to give a strong running engine. These things were anemic from the factory, but have ltos of potential. Factory block and iron heads can support upwards of 700 HP.

 

Over 8600 GVW is considered "Heavy Duty" by the EPA. None of them came with cats, Cali or not.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/2340584319/" title="IMG_1931 by Jim_Urrata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/2340584319_e1d8768007.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1931" /></a>

I have a BW1356 T/C, I didn't see anything cheaper than the Thorley Tri-Y's that said they would fit past my slave cylinder.
Not to doubt you, perhaps you could post some part numbers and applications?

 

Neither of these say anything about fitment issues with a hydraulic clutch. Transfer case is pretty much irrelevant if you have either a NP208, BW1345 or BW1356, regardless of electric of manual shift. It's far enough back that it doesn't matter and they all have front outputs in the same location. It's only the NP205 that becomes a problem, but they didn't come in '80-'96 trucks.

Hedman Hedders 89340 - Hedman Street Hedders - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Flowtech 12560FLT - FlowTech Headers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

There are others listed on the Summit site that don't say anything about slave cyl issues.

I have no idea what headers I have. They were $20 from the guy I got my D60 from. Kinda crusty but functional. I can take more pics if you want. I'm going to try to match them up to figure out waht they are. I could probably shorten the collector on these to clear the front shaft with a NP205, but they're too thin and rusty to even try.

 

Has anyone tried timing gears opposed to chains? I like the idea of them, but not the cost and sometimes required block machining. Haven't checked if they even make them.

I'd wondered why I couldn't find cats on my '86......

I like the OD mod, I may look into that in the future, but I don't see that much Highway miles anyhow.

Shorty headers are more easily plummed, but not as great for synching the pulses. I saw on offroader with one that dumped right FWD of the doors, but its not safe or probably even legal on the street lol. He did have spark arrestors...

 

Geardrive?

If I wanted to sound like I had a blower, I'd have a blower.

 

They make 'more quiet' helical cut gears. i've seen a car with one, either he lied and it was a chain or it was dang quiet. I only paid $800 for my truck so the $200 trick goody part can have the $ put to better use.

 

I have the Hedmans on my 460, they fit just fine, no issues with the clutch at all. Heck, with the late model PMGR starter they even leave enough room to change it without taking anything apart.
Even "quiet" non factory gear drives tend to be noisy, and, when they fail it's not like a timing chain failure, I have seen one blow up and take out the block, crank, and cam.

 

Helical cut gears tend to put a lot of thrust on cam and crank.
They still make more noise than I'd want to listen to.
IMO they belong where they will be used for 10 seconds and 1/4 mile at a time.

Roller chains are cheap by comparison, long lasting and relatively quiet.

Of course you could always go for a Danny Bee belt drive if you had to have the "cool factor"

http://www.jegs.com/i/Danny-Bee/294/...oductId=748229

 

Ideally you need to fix the as-cast exhaust ports in those smogger heads as that's your real hindrance to MPG and power.


whats the best/cheapest ways going about porting? im looking to save a bit were i can as well and i have an 84 460 that has a damn two barrel on it, tes its stock, i dont have the money just yet to replace the intake and get a 4150 holley carb yet.

 

Beast,
If you have more time than money, pay Scott Johnston the $ he asks for his templates and access to that portion of his site and do the porting yourself.

Personally I doubt I'll ever port anything but aluminum ever again, but grinding iron does make you realize the effort that goes into it.

It's FAR more than just the thermactor humps that are a hindrance.
And then you have to find or grind a cam that is not so asymmetrical as one intended for stock.

 

Hey guys, thanks for all the good advice. I looked at the truck last night and will go get it today. It is an Automatic and it is in good shape. Nice aftermarket wheels, with stock sized BFG ATs on it. Body is straight and clean with just some normal fading of the factory paint on the roof and tops of the fenders. Also nice is that it has the 2 benches(small back one). I love all the advice on engine building, but for now I think I will just tune it up, and install a new timing set, maybe look into better ignition and see how she goes.
It will be a daily driver for the first little while, then as soon as I can get my other truck running (77 Chevy C10 2wd) I will use it for the DD task and use this for the heavy work.
My little Chevy will have a 305 or a inline 6 in it and get way better MPG, but have no heavy hauling capacity.
I will post up pictures when I get he home.