I have kind of went over this in one of my other posts, but I wanted to make an offical post about it.

I am wanting to put a 8.8 rear end from an explorer into my M68.
I know they talk about it in the F1 swap article, so I'm assuming it will work in the M68(F3) as well. From my research, my truck isnt a whole lot heavier than the explorers are, so I can't imagine weight is going to be an issue. Or am I wrong?

The rear end is offset a couple inches which was my main concern. This means there will be 2 angles wo worry about. Is this something to be concerend about? or will it be fine as long as the angles are set up correctly?

My main reason for wanting this diff vs the regular 9" is the disc brakes, and most of them have posi.

If anyone has this setup, some pictures would be great.

Thanks,

 

My opinion, fwiw, is it won't be a problem, either from a weight standpoint or an offset standpoint, as long as, as you mentioned, it is set up correctly. The same rear end is used in new F series trucks and Crown Vics, both are heavy weight vehicles. You can look into if the axle bearings at the ends of the housing are the same or different, but still, especially since you don't plan on any heavy payloads, I don't see where you'd ever have an issue. And also as you've researched, the Explorer outweighs the M68 anyway, which has a greater percentage of its weight farther back than your truck does, too.

 

No problem with the weight issue. This might be easier than with an F1 since your axle housing diameter is similar to the Explorer. F1 housings are about 1/2" smaller.

No problem either on the off-set of the diff. In fact your u-joints will be happier. You don't need to worry about the side to side angle, just the verticle alignment.

As long as your hub to hub measurement is close to original so the wheels/tire combo fits in the wheel wells, you're good to go.

 

I believe it's about 2" difference on the hub to hub, so 1" shorter on each side.
Thanks for the help. I'm trying to get things planned out so I can start collecting parts for spring.

 

Get in touch with RHooper here. He put a Explorer rear end in his 48.

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46 Ford Tudor Sedan
48 Ford F1 - Darkside

 

If you do go that route, save the metal axle id tags as well as the VIN from the donor Explorer. It'll make locating parts for the axle it much easier on down the road. For whatever it's worth, good choice, the Explorer 8.8 is plenty tough as far as modern stuff goes. Cheaper than 9'' stuff and available everywhere.

 

When you decide to get your rear end make sure you already know the ratio you want. If you have a pull a part near you, you can save some money by pulling it yourself. The better the overall shape the less to spend replacing rotors or drums.

 

I like that name you picked [ 1PieceAtATime ] You just don,t know how true that name can be. Seems like I've been one piecing for at least the last 5 years.

 

Explorer Rear End You have to be careful how you read that,lol Me bad lol

 

Google research the Exploder 90's. Some have drum, some have disc, some also have posi, also some have ABS. Look at what engines are driving those 8.8 rear ends. All articles have said the Expolder 8.8 on F-1 use is best. I had thought about the springs and spring mounts to the frame use also. chuck

 

Get in touch with RHooper here. He put a Explorer rear end in his 48.

That's RHOPPER.....

 

Sorry Mike, couldn't help my self. The Explorer, or 8.8 is plenty stout for our trucks. No worries there. The offset diff is no concern, the u joint only sees one angle. Just set the pinion angle like any thing else. The axle tube is 3 1/4 diameter, not the more common 3", so some minor work on the spring pads will be needed. Get the u bolts from the explorer, easier than trying to bend the 3" u bolts. There are a variety of ratio's available because this axle was put into many different vehicles. Disk and drum brakes are both available, and interchangeable. If you find an axle with the ratio you want, and maybe limited slip, but it has drum brakes, grab it. Find another axle with disc's and swap the parts over. If you got to a pull a part yard, swap the brakes right there and pay only once. You must pull the axles to do it, but it's just a C clip axle. The width is a hair narrower than stock, plan well and it won't be a problem. I lowered my F1 4" in the rear so the box is between the tires rather than above them. My wheels were made with more backspace than I ordered, so I had a tire rubbing problem. I don't think a standard wheel would cause rubbing, but I was stuck and corrected it with spacers.
I changed ratios in my axle, and rebuilt it at the same time. I purchased a kit from my local Ford dealer, and used a slightly used (50 miles) set of gears from a new mustang. I noticed that using all Ford parts made the swap very easy. The setup was close enough on the first try(original shim pack) that I could have run it that way. I made one small shim change, almost out of guilt.
Lokar makes an e brake cable for 48 ford sedans than fits our handle, and they make a kit to fit this axle, or you can adapt the stock cable.

 

Thanks Rusty. At my age I need all the help I can get from you young whipper snappers.
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46 Ford Tudor - Street Rod
48 Ford F1 - Darkside

 

My truck has very stiff rear suspension, can I use the explorer leafs, or will they not work? I assume I would have to adjust the mounts in order to use them.

 

I would like to know the answer to your question also. I was thinking about the Explorer springs and the ride they would produce.