I'm sure this has been asked before but what all is needed to convert a 65 F100 that was orig a 3 speed on the column. I recently got a 390 and C6 out of a 68 LTD and was wondering. Im mainly concerned about the crossmember I guess and the driveshaft. This truck has the single driveshaft rather than 2 pc like I some I seen. The trans that came with it has a 15" tailshaft housing if that matters. I'm undecided if I want in this or the 74.
Thanks

 

I believe that huge clutch spring was the hardest part of the swap. Dump the pedal, brackets, clutch etc. Last thing is the pilot bushing in the end of the crank shaft.

After that it pretty straight forward install. You probably will need a new or resized drive shaft.

The str. drv cross member is riveted in, auto is bolted in. I recommend cutting the rivets or you will have to pull the engine to remove the C6 should it need servicing out of the truck. The tail shaft cross member will have to be pushed back, and new holes drilled a couple in. back.


guluk





John

 

Anyone ever do a one piece driveshaft after installing a C6 in a LWB and getting rid of the hanger bearing?

 

That is what we plan for my truck. It just seems like it is one less point of failure.

 

What needs to be done on the carborator? I know there is the kickdown cable or rod, but is there anything else on the engine. I am hoping I can use the same starter. Do the flywheel and flex plate have the same size starting gear? Having a doner engine/transmission combination would definitely be a lot easier as you have a basis to start from. I am looking at finding a 390 C6 to couple to my 352. I want to use a Lokar shifter to keep the floor shift.

 

Yes. I installed a C-6 behind my 390 and converted to the one piece driveshaft. The driveshaft had to be custom made, but it was not expensive. The yoke on the output shaft of the C-6 took a larger U-joint than the one on the axle yoke. I had both large yokes installed on the driveshaft, and used a conversion joint to bolt it to the axle.

 

I run a single shaft on my long bed, no issues yet 42,000 miles.

For the carb you will need to make it ready for the kick down. I believe it is a pretty simple item to find. The FE only uses one starter AFAIK.

You need to find a FE C6 all are same round top bell. Flexplate from 352/360/390 should work.




John

 

I did a single driveshaft as well and no problems.

D

 

I just brought a rebuilt C6-torque converter and flex plate, also a B&M z gate floor shifter getting ready to change out the tranny.

I have been taking to some mechanics and reading things and I understand converting from a NP435 stick to c6 on a fe352 has a few issues.
1- relocating the crossmember. Do I drill out the rivits?
2-drive line cut and add a c6 yoke spline, (taking it to a driveline shop) and slop on measurements? Someone said the u joints on the c6 yoke are larger than what? a manual shaft?
3. Somebody mentioned Some kind of bracket mount to tie tranny and motor together?

I have a shortbed step side 66 pictured in avatar. Is there anything else I need to know before my ride is down?

Also I have a new stuart warner speedometer, where does it ty into C6.

Jo, You said something about dissassembling the manual out or off the engine and said something about clutch, spring or fork problems?

Thanks guys. I guess I will be selling a rebuilt 40,000 miles ago NP435 with big round bell big block adapter plate, clutch pedals and linkages. If anybody is out here in Sacramento California drop me a line!

 

1- You might try a 4" angle grinder with a cutoff disk. Cut it close to the frame and punch the rivet out with a big punch.

2- I got a ds that was splined to use. The driveline shop took care of the rest.

3- Don't pre-worry about the U-joints deal with them when you get there. They may be the same.

The front cross, replacing the rivets allows the C6 to be removed without pulling the engine. The rear member is bolted in I think, it's been a while.




John

 

i put a c-6 in my 65 long bed my driveshaft guy wasnt real keen on a standard size steel shaft that long at the higher rpms not talken racing just highway speed . he built me a 4 in 125 wall alum one with 1 ton 1350 spicer hd joints , this thing is stout and will handle my 429 engine .

 

Thanks guys for the responses. It looks like this will be a fairly easy swap if I chose to do it.

 

Two things to be aware of. 1. Check the output shaft the transmission. If it is a yoke for a bolt-on U-joint, you will need a slip-joint somewhere in the driveline, so don't mangle the carrier bearing support bracket under the the truck if this is the case, as you'll need it for the 2 piece driveshaft. If the transmission output is a slip-joint, make sure you have the slip-on yoke. Further, if you have a single piece driveline made up, don't worry about the correct sized U-joint. You can get U-joints made to work with mis-matched couplers. They are called conversion joints. 2. You will find one minor irritation using that C-6 out of a car. The outer shift rod that extends into the case is off-set to that of a truck. The end result is that it is difficult if not impossible to shift into the lowest gear. Normally, this isn't a problem. The fix is to replace that rod with one that came out of a '79 or earlier F-100/250 (maybe 350, don't know for sure.) It is easy to replace, but messy. You must remove the transmission pan, drop the valve body, and then change out the rod. Except for cleanup, everything can can be done in less than an hour. By the way, this applies to truck transmissions used in the '80s. In 1980, Ford made the C-6 shift rod the same for both trucks and cars. I learned all about this when I put a late '80s RV 460/C-6 combo into my truck.

 

So did you use a cable shifter on the floor or steering columb linkages?

 

I used the stock shift linkage on a '72 automatic steering column, Since it is rare to put the truck into 1st gear, so I just left mine alone until I needed to change the transmission fluid. While I had the pan off, I changed the internal shift rod. Simple to do, no special tools, and I can put it in Low (1st) now no problem, the way it was designed.