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Coolant Flush Question

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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 12:24 AM
  #16  
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Thanks da-bees and everyone else that has responded,

I'm going to keep reading and learning until Wednesday when I get back to the truck, then I am going to triple check everything to see if the readings were a fluke (doubtful) or if there is a more serious problem developing. I may try to re-VC-9 the truck, since it can't do more harm (that is, if another oil cooler is in my future... which I desperately hope isn't the case...)

I will update as this saga continues.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by frenchy750
Thanks da-bees and everyone else that has responded,

I'm going to keep reading and learning until Wednesday when I get back to the truck, then I am going to triple check everything to see if the readings were a fluke (doubtful) or if there is a more serious problem developing. I may try to re-VC-9 the truck, since it can't do more harm (that is, if another oil cooler is in my future... which I desperately hope isn't the case...)

I will update as this saga continues.
Try the simple green before the vc-9. If there is any gel, silicate drop out, it will get that 1st and let the vc-9 do its job. Take the t-stat out only for the clear water flushes.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 09:36 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by frenchy750
Just to clarify, I did refill the system after each flush, pouring in approximately 3 to 3 1/2 gallons of distilled water, to the 'MIN' mark on the degas bottle, running the truck for a while, then draining from the petcock and dropping lower radiator hose. At $2 for a 2.5 gallon container, I thought it would be better than using the garden hose and hoping for the best.

My five gallon drain pan was approximately 2/3s full after water stopped pouring out of the petcock/ radiator hose. I then poured in another 3 to 3 1/2 gallons and repeated the procedure. The resultant flush water was first very rust colored, gradually becoming clearer and clearer the more I repeated the process. 40 gallons or so later, it was as clear as it was going to get. The drained water was never crystal clear, but compared to what I was getting out at first, it was nearly clear.

Once I was finished flushing with distilled water, I filled the truck with 3 1/2 gallons of Ford Premium Gold and put the thermostat back in.

Before this process, I had about a 6-8* spread between EOT and ECT according to my Scangauge II. Today's drive to the airport, a drive of approximately 25 miles had the spread at 17*, with the ECT never rising above 192.

During the draining and refilling process I also installed a Dieselsite coolant filter. The hoses to and from the filter all felt warm, indicating that some coolant is now flowing through the filter.

The thing that I am having trouble figuring out is this: If all this crud that got flushed out was in the system this whole time, why is it that the oil cooler would suddenly get all plugged up? The oil cooler was replaced in March, when I bought this truck. I know that doesn't mean very much, as oil coolers can and will get plugged up, I just can't figure out WHY.

I'm away from the truck until Wednesday, and will be reading everything I can from now until then to figure out what the best thing is to do at this point...

If you have a 12/12,000 warranty from when it was replaced last March, why don't you bring it back.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 05:22 AM
  #19  
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Take a look at the series of pics in here and this thread:

Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps - Page 20 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #20  
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Thanks Gearloose,

I read all 27 pages of that thread, doesn't make me feel any better, but at least I understand what is potentially going on a little better.

Frustrating to try and do the right thing, only to have it blow up in your face. Live and learn I guess.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:22 PM
  #21  
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frenchy,

What impressed me is they really tried to do good science, taking it apart.

It was a shame they did not take some samples and send it to a boiler / chemist expert to see what the crud is and what could be done about it.

Still, it is an honest piece of good work -- looking at an actual case and seeing what the issues are.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #22  
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So, this is strange, I think.

After the flush and refill, my ECT NEVER, EVER climbs past 192*. Ever. I have a hard time believing that I have flushed this truck's cooling system so perfectly that no matter what, once the truck hits that magical 192* temperature, it stays exactly there. Climb a hill - 192* Descend a hill - 192*. WOT - 192* Nothing I do makes the number change.

The EOT, on the other hand, climbs to around 206* and fluctuates between 208* and 204*.

I am reading EOT and ECT on a Scangauge II, using Sangauge's proprietary XGauge settings for ECT. The XGauge codes for ECT and the stock Scangauge fWT are exact to within a degree. Before the flush, the ECT would fluctuate along with EOT, but now, once I hit 192* EOT, it stays put.

So I am wondering what could cause this? I replaced the thermostat again with another brand new one, in order to rule the thermostat out as a cause. I learned it was not the thermostat. I wonder if somehow the ECT sensor is buggered? I don't even know where the sensor is...

What I need to learn is what the problem is. (Yes, I am thinking plugged oil cooler too, but rather than throw another giant pile of cash at a problem I may or may not have, I want to rule out everything else first.)

Thoughts?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 03:06 AM
  #23  
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I don't see a problem with ECT not exceeding 192F. If it was running hotter before you flushed it, then maybe the lower ECT is due to the oil cooler becoming slightly restricted from the flush and reducing heat exchange efficiency between oil and coolant. Even so, I wouldn't be in a rush to replace the oil cooler if it were mine. It's running right at the 15 degree threshold so there's probably sufficient coolant flow to keep the EGR cooler from overheating. Who knows, maybe it'll slowly improve now that you have a coolant filter.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #24  
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Thanks moe,

I just found it a little strange that the coolant temp sits exactly at 192, and once there, never varies by even as much as a degree. It just seems from all I've read that once that magical 15* spread has been breached, it's time to donate another large portion of my salary to the oil cooler makers (again).

Flushing the coolant system probably did plug the oil cooler up a bit (which is frustrating as hell, I might add). In hindsight, maybe I wouldn't have used the VC-9. But there was quite a bit of rust in the system, so maybe I would use it again. There's really no way to know if using VC-9 did oil cooler damage or not, except for the fact that my EOT/ECT spread before flushing was about 6*, and now it is much closer to 15*. But then again, before flushing, the ECT temp also would fluctuate higher than 192*.

Like I said, frustrating.

If I knew before flushing what I know now, maybe I would just flush with water and add a coolant filter to see if it helped. Maybe the Restore or Restore + product would work better. Maybe I would use some type of ELC coolant (if I could find some) instead of the Ford Gold, though I don't think I've had much silicate dropout in the 199 miles I've driven since flushing. There's enough information and opinions on that subject alone out there to fill a book.

Rather than simply throwing more enormous sums of cash at this truck, which I am starting to call The Money Pit, I think I'll just keep an eye on things for now, and if gigantic flames start shooting out of the hood, then I'll know something's up.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #25  
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I can relate to your frustration. Mine is in the shop having the oil cooler replaced at this very moment because of this:

 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #26  
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That's exactly what I am afraid of!

When I replaced my coolant, I did take one precaution:



I'll have to wait to see how well it works...

On a serious note, is there any chance you could post some pics of what your old oil cooler looked like once it is removed? I'd be interested to see it.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #27  
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Be glad to. BTW, that reading was taken back in the summer while towing a 10k lb trailer on an exceptionally hot day. I subsequently did a flush with VC-9 and Simple Green, hoping and praying it might clean the oil cooler out. Following the flush, the EOT actually did average about 15 degrees lower. Too little too late, though.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #28  
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Did you pour the "precaution" in to the degas bottle or directly into the radiator? Or perhaps elsewhere?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #29  
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It's likely the flushing and rusty water contained some particles which
did clog up the oil cooler. It's possible just draining and re-filling could
have done it also w/o vc9 - no real way to ever know.

There have been postings by others where they replaced the
oil cooler and LESS than 100 miles later the NEW oil cooler replugged
after they flushed.

Before my flushing experience w/vc9 my t-stat was bad.
My ECT/EOT both stayed in the 178 to 183 range,
so I believed my oil cooler was good.

After the flushing process I installed the new t-stat.
Now my ECT is 190 (186-191 typically) The EOT goes up to
205 on the hi-way - and it's gone as high as 209 going up
the bridge on I-95 in Jacksonville, FL.

I'm having the bulletproofdiesel oil & egr coolers installed next week.
I'm so busy watching the ECT/EOT while driving I don't have
time to text Just kidding about the texting part, serious about watching the temps though.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 11:39 AM
  #30  
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Enough,

I poured three gallons into my face, three fingers at a time in a nice crystal glass with one ice cube.

After this preventative maintenance, I've found that I really don't care what my EOT/ECT temperatures are.

I highly recommend this procedure to anyone suffering the woes of the oil cooler.
 
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