Yesterday afternoon, I was leaving work. I cranked up Traveler with no problems (as usual) and was waiting for it to come off the fast idle and it cut off.
I mean like I switched it off! Tried to restart it- it cranks over like always just won't fire off. I could smell that dreaded something electrical is/was frying. I could not with my nose pinpoint the source- to me it was stronger in the cab BUT I could smell it outside as well.
I have visually checked the fuses inside and outside, swapped the relay for the fuel pump. It was COLD and damn near dark when it happened and a lot colder when the Missus finally picked me up.
I'm not asking for ya'll to solve my problems- I Have NOT had chance to check for spark or fuel- which I will guys.
What I'm after is pointing me in the direction

 

I'd search in the fuel system first, checking pumps, pressure, and the like. make sure to check the inertia switch as well. That would by my first step

 

ELEctrical burn can be more than dangerous and fry a harness , well, you know.

Having said that.............

Classic symptoms of computer capacitor frying if you do a search on burning smell and no start..stronger inside than under the hood.

Turn the key to the on position and see if the fuel pumps run for a second or 2 and then shut off.

If the pumps keep running with the key just in the on position, it will NOT start. Sometimes it will restart when things cool down or heat up but you'd be safest having someone follow you if it does start.

Fire extinguisher for sure and sniff up under by your drivers side kick panel which is where the computer is.

Of course, mice could've chewed wires and other fire hazards but mosst of that stuff is fused or fusible links.

Fire ext is also not a bad idea.

Replacement computers are funny from almost free to 400$
and capacitor replacement you can do yourself for under a dollar.

 

jplinville, drjoe171 Thank you for the responses and pointers.
I went back and determined that Traveler had NO spark or fuel-the rotor turned with the engine rotation, no pressure at the shrader valve and could not hear the pump ever.
Pulled the ECM and the more the computer came out the worst the stench of fried electronics .
Dragged Traveler out from the garage and over to my Pops house where I could see to work(without having to hold a freakin' light) loosened the inner fender to get the computer out of firewall and when I opened the ECM ........There it was!!!! One of the capacitors had leaked/burnt and took out a resistor as well. The board and circuits in that area looked really bad, so I opted for replacing the computer.
Supposedly in this afternoon will post again with the results.
Thanks guys, rep points to you both.
TJ

 

Ok, so now there's a 3 or 4 BIG letter/number combo code on the computer. Might be posted on the driver door jamb too.
It's also near those long lines of letters and numbers on the computer too.

Those are supposedly the program code secific to your engine, displacement, transmission maybe even abs brakes.

When I called a junkyard, all they cared about was the year, eng, trans etc and the program code was close but not identical and it works anyway.
40 $$ for that one.
Some want upwards of 3-400$.
I've since been offered a couple for free so that's all I know.

I WAS able to put a new capacitor in mine for 99cents so for $40.99
I have 2 working computers.

If you can find come computer tv repair guy with a spiffy soldering setup, they may be able to fix it for 10 minutes work.

Glad you found it.

There's another guy on here with the same symptoms but his pumps ran correctly so he diagnosed by heating individual components one at a time with a haridryer.

Heating his distributor made it run so he blasted it with cold air and it wouldn't start, heated it again and it worked.
so it wasn't moisture, it was electrical component temperature weirdness.

So now they say delicate electrical ccomputer type contact cleaner (NOT electric motor cleaner) and di electric grease for that 60 pin connector and take your time.
You might want to make how deep the connector goes in so you don't overtighten it and wind up like me with a spun threaded insert in the computer housing.

Congrats and hopefully you'll get the cheap fix and a free computer somewhere.

Not to confuse the issue, but my pumps ran constantly and yours didn't but same computer failure.

Some info reoccurs here about the fuel pump relays getting stuck on of off and the pigtail wiring TO them gets funky. so you may wanna check that too at some point.

The relays can get stuck on or off either by simple moisture or freezing thawing moisture.

You're gonna love having your truck back.

 

Well Fellas, It was the ECU/ECM .
Installed it and Traveler roared to life!!!


Thanks for all your replies and pointers.
TJ