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How much would you pay???

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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 01:56 AM
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How much would you pay???

I've got an '86 f250 reg. cab, long beg. The body is almost strait accept for to hail damage dents in the hood and about 5 deep scuffs in the right rear of the bed. To get an "ok to nice" paint job and have the dents and scuffs repaired, how much should I EXPECT TO PAY. I also an thinking of having the black plastic trim removed. The color I'm thinking of is something slightly brighter than Candy Apple. What's a good kind of Paint? I was thinking House of kolor. Know any good body men???
thanks
 
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 06:32 AM
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From: Magrath
How much would you pay???

Keep in mind, a red paint is almost always more expensive. If you can remove the trim, it will be cheaper.

When I went to get a quote on my GMC, (which had some surface rust and one dent that was to get fixed) the quotes ranged from $600 (Maacco) to $6800. The average quote was about $2000. I ended up doing it myself for about $200 ( I did it at my parents place in Canada. Nice paying for Canadian materials in U.S. dollors.)

My truck is 2 tone silver and blue.

I hope this gives you a guideline.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 09:50 AM
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How much would you pay???

Is it easy to paint a truck? assuming you mask off everything and are in a dust free environment... What is there? ad paint (coats?) then ad clear coat (coats?) Then just be sure the goo goes on even. The truck's already pretty badly oxidized, so what is involved in removing the current paint? Or is this even necassary? Im not going two tone or anything, just a one color, run of the mill job. But $2000 isn't too bad I guess. Just wish I had it!
 
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 11:05 AM
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From: Magrath
How much would you pay???

In my experience, which is nothing compared to others here, the painting is the easy part. The preping is the time consuming and hard part.

If you are going to do it yourself, take the time to make sure everything is preped the right way. (learned that the hard way when I did my first. Thought it was "good enough". Got the first coat on and ended up touchup sanding for a good day between coats just because I didn't take the extra half a day before painting)

To make things a little easier, you can get a paint stripper that strips the old paint right off. You will have to prime the surface afterwards, but if your paint is oxidized, that may be the best method.

If you do it yourself, assuming you don't rent any equipment, my guess at the cost would be about $250 - $400. Maybe more with the red paint (as red is more expensive).

You local autoparts shop can help you out as well. They usually know about products that help out guys like you and me with thier amatuer painting (that is how I learned about the paint stripper).

I hope this helps you a bit. Hopefully someone will confirm or correct my posts as I am just going from personal experience. I am sure there are people here that can give you some better advice.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 07:42 PM
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How much would you pay???

Thanks, I just may do that. I'll find an old junker to test some cheap paint on and I'll get the tools from my grandpa. I think he has an old pressure sprayer. As far as fixing the dents and stuff. BONDO!!! either that or i'll suck it up and take it somewhere. Probably wont be that expensive. WHat about clear coats?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 08:36 PM
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How much would you pay???

Don't strip the old paint if you can help it. Sanding should take off the oxidized paint. The factory primer is usually good stuff.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 09:12 PM
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How much would you pay???

OK, good. That'll save on materials. What's the best way to sand. With a disc sander, by hand, belt sander, what? And what grit?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 11:57 PM
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How much would you pay???

As far as sanders go, I bought a straight line air sander from harbor freight for about $40 and used it to no end and it is great. I used 3M gold paper made for these, about $.50 each but well worth it.

If the surface is rough I'd start with some 150 or 180 and then 220 and then wet sand with some 320 and a $4 3m sanding sponge/foam rubber thing, then 400 or 600

stay away from a belt sander unless your stripping down to bare metal.

My $40 makita palm electric sander works well too but use light grits in the 180~220 range
 
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 09:59 AM
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How much would you pay???

I would hand sand on your first paint job. Spray a very light mist from a quick dry spray can. This will allow you to see any low spots on the surface. If you sand with the light just right, you will know when you have a totally sanded, smooth surface. Also wet sand to see better.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 09:40 PM
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How much would you pay???

Okay depending on the color you choose.... you can dry sand with 400 dry paper on a DA (flat panels) or 600 grit Wet sanding (either by hand or DA) until the panel is totally dull when dry and also that you cannot feel the change in layers of color/clear/primer.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 09:51 PM
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Question How much would you pay???

I'm lost
Can anyone resummerize in ENGLISH or should i just suck it up and pay somebody (moneys i don't have ) to paint my truck 92' f-150 crew cab-standard box (8') also i'm gunna do the body work myself so what do i do to the otherside. lotsa ques on doors and what do you do with the "edges" oh yah i live in MI so i have rust spots 1" i ndaimeter all over my hood can i just fix these or will i have differant colored spots wher i did and didn't paint. please be mor specific on the sanding... sorry to ask so many questions. Xwarroir i know it was your post
 
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Old Mar 11, 2003 | 01:10 AM
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How much would you pay???

No, prob. 6's. Those are good questions that I could use answers to also. I'm still trying to figure out how many coats of paint and clear I need.
 
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