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Cold Starting Question

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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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Cold Starting Question

Its been in the single digit temps the past two days and she almost wouldn't start. After starting she still runs cold due to the cold air out there.

My rig still has the stock sheet metal tubing that connects the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold but the flap actuator is not working. I had to have one of those replaced years ago on an Escort so it would run better and I'm pretty sure I need one for my 72. What are those things called and where can I get one?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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Anybody out there?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Is your choke working?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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It's called a heat riser. Gives the engine warm air from the exhaust manifolds to help with cold weather running. After the engine is warmed up the flapper allows fresh unheated air into the engine. They have a temp vacum switch that is mounted in the air cleaner to operate it. You don't want it on all the time because fuel mileage will suffer. It's main purpose is to help get to that point or stay on as needed.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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Ya, choke works.

Where do I get the temp vacuum switch and what is it called? That flap in mine is wide open all the time.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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I do not have the stock aircleaner on my 68.

But with the biggest Cold Cranking Amp battery that can fit and 5w30 oil she start right up even in negative temps.
Then we stick a weight on the throttle to keep the rpm's up a little to help her warm up.
Cardboard in front of the radiator helps out also.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 01:25 PM
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Qman, a broken flapper is not going to affect starting.
Check the throw on the accelerator pump- maybe increase it- and try tightening up the choke a little more.
Although most of the guys seem skeptical, I am a fan of higher octane fuel in very cold weather to help starting. Worth a try.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 02:15 PM
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Maybe I used the wrong title for this thread. I wasn't really complaining about the cold starting. It was hard to start but it starts.

I am complaining about the rough running. It never warms up. When I met my wife she had an Escort and one cold winter ice would form on the carburetor throat and it would run rough just like my truck does. If I sat there for a few minutes everything would warm up and it would run good again. Take off and it would run rough again. The dealer figured out it was that stupid flap. Had it replaced and all was well again.

That flap is wide open on my truck and I think I need one. It runs fine when it's warm out.

Count me as skeptical on the high octane fuel. Octane rating is nothing more than a fuel's resistance to pre-ignition. The higher the number the higher the resistance. A higher compression engine needs a higher octane fuel so the stuff doesn't ignite too early. You're throwing away cash putting higher octane fuel in these old rigs. That fuel is less likely to burn than the lower octane stuff. It still burns fine though.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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Well, maybe you're right about octane and cold starting.
My truck starts and runs better after I wash it, too.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 03:44 PM
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T would be helpful to have a vacuum schematic for your OEM setup. I believe the part in the air cleaner is the vacuum motor and the switch may be part of it or not. Some Ford engines have the switch in the thermostat housing or intake manifold. I suspect the motor not the switch. You can check the motor/part that moves the flap, by disconnecting the hose to it and closing it by hand and putting your finger over the inlet. If it stays closed or tries to stay closed the motor is likely OK. Your finger may not seal well, so you may want to try a piece of electrial tape, when plugged tightly it should stay open. If not it's bad. Also check all vacuum hoses for cracks/leaks.
Just My $.02,
Gene
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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qman, I haven't had one of those things on my truck in years. You have carb/choke issues. Get that straight and the truck will run better.



John
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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Thanks jow. Do you get minus zero temps? My story about the flap on my wife's Escort is truer than snot. I didn't even know what that thing was til it was replaced.

And when it comes right down to it. How do you adjust a choke? I followed the instructions that came with my carb kit but didn't really understand what the heck I was doing.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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when it was 20 below zero . all i did was pull the manual choke close crank an pump the gas an she fired off . when i put the edelbrock manual choke carb on i just made sure the choke closed all the way . it was real simple . i don't now about electric choke never had one.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by qman
Thanks jow. Do you get minus zero temps? My story about the flap on my wife's Escort is truer than snot. I didn't even know what that thing was til it was replaced.

And when it comes right down to it. How do you adjust a choke? I followed the instructions that came with my carb kit but didn't really understand what the heck I was doing.
No sir we don't get -0º temps very often. Is everyone stalled in those temps or just you?? If just you, then others carb/chokes are working.

I'm sure there are plenty of others that can splain carb setups better then me.




John
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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When it hits -20F is when my 68 gets plugged in.
Have a edelbrock carb/intake with manuel choke.

Close the choke and pump the pedal a couple of times and she starts right up.
All the 68 gets is 85 octane.
Always gets a tune up in the fall.
All i have done is make sure the choke is closed all they when i pull the cable.

When's the last time yours had a tune up?
 
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