glow plug controler selidoid
#1
glow plug controler selidoid
as per the instructions on this forum i was ,able to remove the white wire on the gp. selnoid , add a push button between ground ---worked great
not any more , three of the post are always hot. 2 little ones and the hot feed 12v, --so i figured it was the sel gone bad. went and got new sel and from what i have read here one from an 86 yr. put it in ,,the same----ok so now i figure it is the controler---change that with a differant one(not new) same result 3 hot post ------oh-ya a nor'easter headed my way any and all thought are welcomed .needed, and appreceated
thank you all
not any more , three of the post are always hot. 2 little ones and the hot feed 12v, --so i figured it was the sel gone bad. went and got new sel and from what i have read here one from an 86 yr. put it in ,,the same----ok so now i figure it is the controler---change that with a differant one(not new) same result 3 hot post ------oh-ya a nor'easter headed my way any and all thought are welcomed .needed, and appreceated
thank you all
#2
#3
the one large post with th two yellow wires is the 12 feed, but the two little post are not supposed to be hot all the time,
and if i disconnect the manual push botton and put the white wire back on , the seln. clicks
but no power goes to the gps,
the large post with z-conector is not getting power,
and if i disconnect the manual push botton and put the white wire back on , the seln. clicks
but no power goes to the gps,
the large post with z-conector is not getting power,
#4
The two small terminals are the relay coil.
So if you put power to one terminal, (Red/green stripe wire) the other is hot.
When you ground the second terminal, the circuit is completed, the electromagnet creates a field and closes the relay.
The new style controller white wire grounds the coil closing the relay through the black ground wire on the controller.
If you have power on the large terminal with yellow wires, you are getting power from the battery.
But there are two reasons you may not be getting power at the glow plug terminal of the relay.
1. the relay contacts are burnt not making connection
2. the chassis to engine harness connector has corrosion in the connector ands is not carrying enough amps to heat the glow plugs.
Look near the dip stick for that connector, it will have two large AWG yellow wires on one end.
Does it look like it has been hot and or melted?
One more thing.
Are you not getting power out of the relay at the terminal that connects to the metal strip?
Some of the metal strips have contacts in them.
If the strip is damaged, it is possible for power to be on one end but not the other.
Pete the actual relay on the new style controller is the same thing as the old style relay.
GPR109 at NAPA with a cost of under 30 dollars.
Much better than the over 100 dollar price for the entire controller/relay if the controller is still good.
From what I have seen, unless the controller gets power shorted to one of the wires to the controller or the connections for the wires to the controller are bad, those solid state controllers last a long time.
It is usually the relay that goes bad.
So if you put power to one terminal, (Red/green stripe wire) the other is hot.
When you ground the second terminal, the circuit is completed, the electromagnet creates a field and closes the relay.
The new style controller white wire grounds the coil closing the relay through the black ground wire on the controller.
If you have power on the large terminal with yellow wires, you are getting power from the battery.
But there are two reasons you may not be getting power at the glow plug terminal of the relay.
1. the relay contacts are burnt not making connection
2. the chassis to engine harness connector has corrosion in the connector ands is not carrying enough amps to heat the glow plugs.
Look near the dip stick for that connector, it will have two large AWG yellow wires on one end.
Does it look like it has been hot and or melted?
One more thing.
Are you not getting power out of the relay at the terminal that connects to the metal strip?
Some of the metal strips have contacts in them.
If the strip is damaged, it is possible for power to be on one end but not the other.
Pete the actual relay on the new style controller is the same thing as the old style relay.
GPR109 at NAPA with a cost of under 30 dollars.
Much better than the over 100 dollar price for the entire controller/relay if the controller is still good.
From what I have seen, unless the controller gets power shorted to one of the wires to the controller or the connections for the wires to the controller are bad, those solid state controllers last a long time.
It is usually the relay that goes bad.
#6
#7
Depends on the truck year.
That solenoid is bolted to the passenger side inner fender well on the 83 thru 86 trucks, minus the controller under the relay.
87 thru 94 NA trucks have it in the rear center of the intake with the controller as pictured.
93 and 94 turbo trucks have it mounted on the valve covers as pictured with the controller under it.
And yes the relay looks just like the fender mounted starter relay, but it is electrically different.
Coil grounds through one of the small terminals on the glow plug relay.
Coil grounds through the mounting bracket on the starter relay.
That solenoid is bolted to the passenger side inner fender well on the 83 thru 86 trucks, minus the controller under the relay.
87 thru 94 NA trucks have it in the rear center of the intake with the controller as pictured.
93 and 94 turbo trucks have it mounted on the valve covers as pictured with the controller under it.
And yes the relay looks just like the fender mounted starter relay, but it is electrically different.
Coil grounds through one of the small terminals on the glow plug relay.
Coil grounds through the mounting bracket on the starter relay.
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#8
#9
#10
Depends on the truck year.
That solenoid is bolted to the passenger side inner fender well on the 83 thru 86 trucks, minus the controller under the relay.
87 thru 94 NA trucks have it in the rear center of the intake with the controller as pictured.
93 and 94 turbo trucks have it mounted on the valve covers as pictured with the controller under it.
And yes the relay looks just like the fender mounted starter relay, but it is electrically different.
Coil grounds through one of the small terminals on the glow plug relay.
Coil grounds through the mounting bracket on the starter relay.
That solenoid is bolted to the passenger side inner fender well on the 83 thru 86 trucks, minus the controller under the relay.
87 thru 94 NA trucks have it in the rear center of the intake with the controller as pictured.
93 and 94 turbo trucks have it mounted on the valve covers as pictured with the controller under it.
And yes the relay looks just like the fender mounted starter relay, but it is electrically different.
Coil grounds through one of the small terminals on the glow plug relay.
Coil grounds through the mounting bracket on the starter relay.
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