Vapor Canister issues...
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Vapor Canister issues...
That darn engine light. "P1445", says the dude at AutoZone. Call Ford parts - $210 for the whole assembly, which includes the purge valve and sensor, and hoses all assembled into one "assembly". Nope, we don't sell just the purge valve or just the sensor. Okay. On line search, and success! Purge valve $36, sensor $19. They arrive, valve broken, send back, finally a good one arrives. Hmm. Hoses cracked and deteriorated. The hose that goes from the valve to the canister is larger on one end than on the other. Autozone: "...we don't have that." Ford Parts: "...we only sell the whole assembly for $210". Back to the store, spend almost an hour playing with two different sizes of hose and male to male connectors to make it work. Finally got everything together, spend about 30 minutes putting it together and installing. Hook battery back up and engine light is gone. Sweet.
Here's the problem. Now engine sort of "skips" in idle. It wasn't doing that before. Now it is.
Any ideas? Thanks ya'll.
Here's the problem. Now engine sort of "skips" in idle. It wasn't doing that before. Now it is.
Any ideas? Thanks ya'll.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
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From: St Louis
Are we supposed to guess as to what you are working on?
Don't get too excited about the CEL being out. It's supposed to reset when the battery is disconnected. It then takes two consecutive failures of the OBDII monitor to turn it back on. Since evaporative emissions monitors have one of the most restrictive sets of prerequisites for test entry, it may be weeks or months before the previously-failed monitor to actually run.
Don't get too excited about the CEL being out. It's supposed to reset when the battery is disconnected. It then takes two consecutive failures of the OBDII monitor to turn it back on. Since evaporative emissions monitors have one of the most restrictive sets of prerequisites for test entry, it may be weeks or months before the previously-failed monitor to actually run.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,533
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From: Dexter, MI
Check the reply "tomw" gave to the thread "How do I fix this." He gives some info originally provided by "Number Dummy" on parts availability.
Good luck on finding a Ford parts person who is willing to search for you.
Good luck on finding a Ford parts person who is willing to search for you.
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Are we supposed to guess as to what you are working on?
Don't get too excited about the CEL being out. It's supposed to reset when the battery is disconnected. It then takes two consecutive failures of the OBDII monitor to turn it back on. Since evaporative emissions monitors have one of the most restrictive sets of prerequisites for test entry, it may be weeks or months before the previously-failed monitor to actually run.
Don't get too excited about the CEL being out. It's supposed to reset when the battery is disconnected. It then takes two consecutive failures of the OBDII monitor to turn it back on. Since evaporative emissions monitors have one of the most restrictive sets of prerequisites for test entry, it may be weeks or months before the previously-failed monitor to actually run.
It's a 1997 Ford Ranger 2wd, 2.3 liter.
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Are we supposed to guess as to what you are working on?
Don't get too excited about the CEL being out. It's supposed to reset when the battery is disconnected. It then takes two consecutive failures of the OBDII monitor to turn it back on. Since evaporative emissions monitors have one of the most restrictive sets of prerequisites for test entry, it may be weeks or months before the previously-failed monitor to actually run.
Don't get too excited about the CEL being out. It's supposed to reset when the battery is disconnected. It then takes two consecutive failures of the OBDII monitor to turn it back on. Since evaporative emissions monitors have one of the most restrictive sets of prerequisites for test entry, it may be weeks or months before the previously-failed monitor to actually run.
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However, now the truck seems to run a little rough at idle. It's almost as if the timing is now a little off. It doesn't die, but it is not very pleasant to sit at a traffic light and the engine is sort of "pulsing" from a lower RPM to a higher RPM and back to lower, and back to higher, etc.
If I hadn't just replaced the valve, sensor, and lines connecting them to the canister, I would think timing or spark plug or something else. But the engine ran perfectly fine before I did this and now it doesn't.
What would you do? Where would you start? Thanks!
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Igniter64 my canister is not totally together, Canister is on hose to the purge valve thing fom there ther is a partial vac hose < Where does that go to.
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I'm not sure how close your truck is to mine, but on my truck, (Ford Ranger 4 cyl eng) from the canister you have a weird hose that goes to the silenoid then a small hose to the sensor and then a longer hose to the engine. Hopefully this link will take you to where you can see a picture of the sensor. It is black, and a wire plugs into it.
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