Replacing Injectors
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Replacing Injectors
I have new injectors to install, got valve covers off and ready to remove old injectors. Need to know how to drain fuel rail so fuel wont run into engine while installing new glow plugs and injectors.
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4 oil plugs on the intake manifold side of the and,head and 4 fuel plugs on the exhaust side of the head.(i think thats right for the fuel plugs, there might be a single fuel plug on the back of the heads) if i remember the plugs have a 3/8 square recess for a ratchet to fit and remove them
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Installed a new injectors, got truck running ran good for 30-45 min then just died. Now truck wont start. Checked over my work and did per manf. spec. Fuel bowl is full. Will try to start if I hold a rag with gas over the air intake but does not completly start. Some white smoke out of exhaust pipe.
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Injector replacement
I installed 8 new injectors in 7.3 and start up was fine. let it ideal for 30 min then it died. Will not start. A few people have told me that I should have stayed in the gas not ideal. Truck will somewhat start with a rag with gas on over the intake but dies after gas is gone. Any information on getting truck going. Fuel bowl is full, oil is good, battery good.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Idling the truck is not a problem and did not cause your current issue. 30 min. is a long time for a truck to idle and suddenly die. Did you hear it stall? How did it cut out? Like someone turned the key off, or did it spit and sputter?
When you turn the key to the on position, does your WTS (wait to start) light come on for a few seconds then go off? When you crank the engine, is there any smoke coming out of the tail pipe? What year is your truck?
When you turn the key to the on position, does your WTS (wait to start) light come on for a few seconds then go off? When you crank the engine, is there any smoke coming out of the tail pipe? What year is your truck?
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It sounded like someone turned truck off. I do have just a little white ( gray) smoke coming out of tail pipe. It is a 2003 7.3 and the start engine light stay on the normal time each time i try to start
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Post Fiend
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From: Texas
The moving tach trick doesn't work on the 02 - 03 models. When you turn your key on (not start), can you hear the fuel pump humming for 25 seconds or so on the driver frame rail below your seat? Do you have a chip in the truck? Do all the other dash lights act normal?
Try starting with the ICP sensor unplugged. Check the back of the IPR to make sure the nut didn't fall off. Check the wiring at both of those to make sure the wires aren't chaffed.
For grins, check the oil level in your HPOP reservoir and make sure it's about an inch or so below the plug.
Try starting with the ICP sensor unplugged. Check the back of the IPR to make sure the nut didn't fall off. Check the wiring at both of those to make sure the wires aren't chaffed.
For grins, check the oil level in your HPOP reservoir and make sure it's about an inch or so below the plug.
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Ran scann on truck and High Pressure oil pump only produces 15psi. The guy doing the scann said need to replace oil pump and it is not uncommon for a truck with 300k + when you change all 8 injectors that the pump can not produce the pressure needed for the new injectors. He said it takes a min of 500psi to start. I guess i will be putting a pump on it tomorrow. The icp sensor has some oil on the plug side and he said I need to replace it.
Post Fiend
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From: Texas
Very rare for the pump to just die like that. Before you go and replace the pump, the proper way to diagnose a bad pump is to block off one of the outlets and hook a gauge to the rail that is not blocked off. Then switch sides, then if necessary block off both and stick a gauge in there to check the dead headed pump pressure.
The more likely explanation is you've either blown the injector o-rings or one of the plugs you pulled in the rail to drain the oil came out and it's bleeding off pressure faster than it can produce while cranking.
Did he also monitor IPR duty % while cranking to see where it maxed out? Since ICP is read on the driver side head, I'd pull that valve cover first and see what you can find anything. Try cranking the engine and seeing if any of the injectors are spitting oil while cranking. Make sure the drain plugs are installed in the rails. Did you cover the injector o-rings with lots of oil before you installed them?
If you decide to change the pump anyway, my guess is it won't make a difference unless your problem is with the IPR, in which case you could swap the new IPR in first to check if the new pump comes with a new IPR.
The more likely explanation is you've either blown the injector o-rings or one of the plugs you pulled in the rail to drain the oil came out and it's bleeding off pressure faster than it can produce while cranking.
Did he also monitor IPR duty % while cranking to see where it maxed out? Since ICP is read on the driver side head, I'd pull that valve cover first and see what you can find anything. Try cranking the engine and seeing if any of the injectors are spitting oil while cranking. Make sure the drain plugs are installed in the rails. Did you cover the injector o-rings with lots of oil before you installed them?
If you decide to change the pump anyway, my guess is it won't make a difference unless your problem is with the IPR, in which case you could swap the new IPR in first to check if the new pump comes with a new IPR.
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The injectors went in snug and I did oil them well as I have done with all items i have installed with o rings. I feel sure that the o rings are okay and I double checked the Oil port pluggs that I removed. The injectors are not spitting any oil. Resivor is 1 inch from top.
