hey everyone, update on the PSD

we are looking at possibly Trading our F150 for a F250 PSD.

We checked out a 96 F250 with 189k but when we wouldn't budge from 8k price,we moved on. Lone behold craigslist has a guy with a 95 PSD 250 xtnd cab long bed willing to TRADE STRAIGHT for our truck. The difference is this truck has 242k on it. Although has rebuilt trans with shift kit and turbo with 20k on it.This one is auto as well. Are their any big differences between 95 and 96 since its odbII and pre odbII?


thanks all
-Juan

 

Engine should be fine if its been taken care of. Tranny, that's getting to about the time they go out. Never know, depends how it was driven.

 

Taken From SteveBAZ page Here

"Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling."

That will get you started on a few things to look at. As stated, may want to look into tranny, see if the P/O has document of a rebuild and what was done

 

ok,thanks guys, will look those things over!! uber excited!

 

I got a 183K on mine and you can see what I pull. I've rebuilt my auto twice though, I just don't want to pull a load with a manuel. That's just me though.

 

stock for stock, manuals are better... Start making power and you can't beat a built auto.

 

update guys,looking at a 95 now

 

only a couple minor differences b/w 95 and 96's, nothing to worry about really. You can get a pcm flash to make the 95 obdII compliant for about a hundred bucks. Keep in mind, with 242k on it if the injectors haven't had any work they may need some fairly soon. When you go to look at it, insist on it being cold when you get there to start it. That way you can tell how it starts, smokes, etc..

 

new water pump, injectors, batteries, turbo

 

Excellent suggestion! Good suggestion for all used vehicle shopping.

 

i went with a friend of mine once to go look at a used honda, and the guy selling it kept talking about how he just did an oil change on it that morning.... the dummy left the drain pan full of 'milky' oil right there next to the car. of corse we said "no thanks".

 

Sounds like he should have just hung a sign out, THIS CAR IS SCREWED!

 

........

 

are you trying to tell me something?

 

No, just got a little off topic. That happens some around here....