PCM inspection
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
PCM inspection
I took my PCM out of my truck to inspect for damage. When I check for codes I get 512 in continuous and sometimes 625. 625 comes and goes, otherwise it's 111 with 512 in continuous in KOEO. When I do KOER I just get 111. I took out the computer now. The connections seem rather dirty and I rubbed them with a Q Tip and they're quite dirty. Should I use rubbing alcohol on these to clean connections? And when I reconnect, should I use electrical grease?
I checked pin #1 and I had power there. I'm yet to have someone flick the ignition switch for me so I can see if it cuts out power. I tried it with key off and had battery voltage. Once I turned it on it dropped slightly (13 volts to about 12.4) but I didn't get to see what it did when the switch was moving.
I'll post links to the pictures. What should I look for? I heard something about looking for burns in the PCM?
I checked pin #1 and I had power there. I'm yet to have someone flick the ignition switch for me so I can see if it cuts out power. I tried it with key off and had battery voltage. Once I turned it on it dropped slightly (13 volts to about 12.4) but I didn't get to see what it did when the switch was moving.
I'll post links to the pictures. What should I look for? I heard something about looking for burns in the PCM?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
I forgot to add something.. I was wondering if that is the correct computer for my truck. I looked at the codes on fordfuelinjection.com and it doesn't match and I also didn't see one with D2Z code like mine has. My truck is a 1992 Ford F250 5.0 with E4OD transmission. I didn't know if someone put the wrong one in it but it's been running and starting fine for the past 4 years up until my starting issue that I discover when it first got cold.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Some say the eec/pcm/ecm cannot be tested, but if that's the case, how do they rebuild them?
I've also heard that the program code is on the drivers door jamb and that they are specific (the BIG letters on the unit =Z2D) to engine, year and transmixer. and either federal emissions or state specific
I asked a guy how he knew his was bad and he showed me a picture of melted capacitors...and said it smelled like burning electrical.
Mine didn't smell bad but when I gently pushed on a capacitor to read the numbers, it was real obvious that one of the legs had corroded and rotted.
Those blue things standing up on 2 wire legs and MUST go back in one way only...check for markings.
99 cent capacitor and pretty easy to solder a new one in.
Cleaner?
I used electrical CONNECTOR cleaner, and dielectric grease.
NOT 'lektramotive for greasy starters and elec motors and stuff
too corrosive.
-Also be careful with that 10mm bolt head. and make sure it goes in straight.
Someone had tightened mine and it stripped te insert out of the case and it took me literally 3 weeks to get it apart without breaking the 60 pin connector to pieces.
I've also heard that the program code is on the drivers door jamb and that they are specific (the BIG letters on the unit =Z2D) to engine, year and transmixer. and either federal emissions or state specific
I asked a guy how he knew his was bad and he showed me a picture of melted capacitors...and said it smelled like burning electrical.
Mine didn't smell bad but when I gently pushed on a capacitor to read the numbers, it was real obvious that one of the legs had corroded and rotted.
Those blue things standing up on 2 wire legs and MUST go back in one way only...check for markings.
99 cent capacitor and pretty easy to solder a new one in.
Cleaner?
I used electrical CONNECTOR cleaner, and dielectric grease.
NOT 'lektramotive for greasy starters and elec motors and stuff
too corrosive.
-Also be careful with that 10mm bolt head. and make sure it goes in straight.
Someone had tightened mine and it stripped te insert out of the case and it took me literally 3 weeks to get it apart without breaking the 60 pin connector to pieces.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
Drjoe hit the nail on several things! Take care when handling the contacts of the PCM. I know from computer work I do, static will kill chips! SInce it's winter, it's a lot drier air, so more static is generated. You can tap the vehicle or something grounded to discharge it. I have a wrist band that I connect to a grounded source for these situations.
Carefully look at the PCB(printed circuit board) for any traces that look foul, such burn marks or overheated ares of the PCB. If any capacitors appear to be bulging or have bulged and leaked a crusty fluid around the crown, get them replaced before going any further. It's an indication they have failed or ready to fail.
Caps aren't difficult to replace so don't worry much. Check the resistors on the board since they "resist" current and are prone to geting hot. I have seen resistors blown right off the board from excessive current.
If the PCM has any inherent signs of physical damage, keep an eye out for another one. You could perhaps get the board repaired at a local tech shop for 50-65$ but the price of a used one that is ok, will be nice to have on hand.
Carefully look at the PCB(printed circuit board) for any traces that look foul, such burn marks or overheated ares of the PCB. If any capacitors appear to be bulging or have bulged and leaked a crusty fluid around the crown, get them replaced before going any further. It's an indication they have failed or ready to fail.
Caps aren't difficult to replace so don't worry much. Check the resistors on the board since they "resist" current and are prone to geting hot. I have seen resistors blown right off the board from excessive current.
If the PCM has any inherent signs of physical damage, keep an eye out for another one. You could perhaps get the board repaired at a local tech shop for 50-65$ but the price of a used one that is ok, will be nice to have on hand.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Post your Calibration Code off the drivers door and I will look it up and post the right right one for your truck.
Part# is F2TF-12A650-AHA is for a 1992 bronco 302/e40d, CALIBRATION: 2-54L-R10.
Part# is F2TF-12A650-AHA is for a 1992 bronco 302/e40d, CALIBRATION: 2-54L-R10.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
I think I found an issue. I was looking at the computer and was inspecting those little blue things. (I don't know what they're called) I noticed one is broken (looks like the solder melted off) I am posting a picture and circled them All 3 have what looks like corrosion on only one prong of the blue cap things. the RED one I circled is the broken one. yellow are just the other 2. What does the broken one do? the one on ford fuel injection looks different and they aren't circled anyway.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
Ok I should add some info. I'm not sure if it helps any but here we go. I was the one posting about the cold start issue. when it's 60 degrees or colder out this truck runs horrible on start up. Once it warms it's fine and you can drive it anywhere. When it's warm outside it'll fire right up and drive away. I changed the ECT which is what the problem seemed to possibly be but it never changed one bit. I checked the fuel system and it's working excellent. New O2, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, TPS, IAC and no vacuum leaks. I also repaired my EGR. I didn't know if this capacitor thing runs the ECT or cold start program. Plus my codes 512 and 625. 625 comes and goes. 512 is constantly there. I do have great power at pin #1. So maybe this capacitor has to do with it?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
I am sorry but the Ford site dose not list a 2-54L-R00 but all of the 2-54L they do list is for the 5.0L engine.
The Ford site URL and click on "VECI LABELS" near the bottom:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=26
It will not work right with that bad Cap.
Here is a PDF below about how to change the caps in a PCM Computer.
It is for a GM computer so the values of the caps are wrong but the process is the same.
The Ford site URL and click on "VECI LABELS" near the bottom:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=26
It will not work right with that bad Cap.
Here is a PDF below about how to change the caps in a PCM Computer.
It is for a GM computer so the values of the caps are wrong but the process is the same.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
I am sorry but the Ford site dose not list a 2-54L-R00 but all of the 2-54L they do list is for the 5.0L engine.
Has someone swaped engines in this truck?
The Ford site URL and click on "VECI LABELS" near the bottom:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=26
It will not work right with that bad Cap.
Here is a PDF below about how to change the caps in a PCM Computer.
It is for a GM computer so the values of the caps are wrong but the process is the same.
Has someone swaped engines in this truck?
The Ford site URL and click on "VECI LABELS" near the bottom:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=26
It will not work right with that bad Cap.
Here is a PDF below about how to change the caps in a PCM Computer.
It is for a GM computer so the values of the caps are wrong but the process is the same.
I don't think the engine was changed. I do believe in the VIN number it was listed with a 5.0 but i'll check that again. I have the info to check that. Now those caps, How do I know what one to buy? Is there a number on them? I was gonna try and re-solder it just to try it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
Thank you very much for the info. I see I may have to order the caps but I found them on ebay really cheap. 25 of the for 3 bucks. I should probably replace the other 2 as well since they look bad with the corrosive material. To bad they are different caps and I can't use the same ones. But anyway, I checked my VIN and it came with the 5.0 302. Maybe the tag or computer was changed. It ran fine for 4 years up until this winter and I never changed the computer or engine so I guess it'll be ok once I repair the caps. I'll post updates once I've replaced the caps!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: North Central Ohio
Thanks! I may need a whole new computer. I've had it in the house for over 24 hours and brought it out to the truck to see what it would do. I didn't put it back in it's slot because I still need to replace the caps. I hooked it up, turned the key and it fired right up! I ran it and drove it for awhile and still got codes 512 and 625. It's probably because of the bad capacitor because I cleaned and checked pin #1. I'll let the computer get cold and see if it miss fires on start up again. I guess the burnt cap is the issue? if not the whole computer. This took a lot of guess work out! haha
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Thanks! I may need a whole new computer. I've had it in the house for over 24 hours and brought it out to the truck to see what it would do. I didn't put it back in it's slot because I still need to replace the caps. I hooked it up, turned the key and it fired right up! I ran it and drove it for awhile and still got codes 512 and 625. It's probably because of the bad capacitor because I cleaned and checked pin #1. I'll let the computer get cold and see if it miss fires on start up again. I guess the burnt cap is the issue? if not the whole computer. This took a lot of guess work out! haha
short version..just say capacitors are like papertowel rolls with tin foil in between each sheet and soaked in roofing tar and coiled back up.
the foil can short out but also can kinda heal themselves when the roofing tar heats and melts again or cools and separates.
I did find replacement computers between 40 and 400 dollars but no one could tell me much and none of them wanted to know the program code.. those 3 or 4 BIG letters and numbers.
so I just changed out the obvious capacitor for 99 cents.Computer contact cleaner NOT electric motor cleaner, and dielectric grease for the 60 pin connector.
Granted, it's kinda nice to know WHY some components blow up or melts but sometimes fuses and capacitors just run out to the end of their lifespan.
They say computer batteries will charge and discharge just so many times and that's it.
worst case is you've wasted 99 cents and some head scratchin' time in the shop.
I'm running my repaired computer and after 8 months, found a junkyard replacement computer I'll keep as a backup